Most likely culprit. If the jumper doesn't work, make sure the Black/white wire has 12V when ignition is on. Usually the wires on the temp switch become brittle and break where they go into the back of the switch.

 

Yeah the jumper wire didn't work. Any idea what else it could be?

 

Does the Black/white wire in the temp switch plug (B-12) have 12V when ignition is on?

If the black wire in the choke magnet plug in the dash (B-14) is grounded and the Blue/white wire in the same plug has 12V the magnet should hold the **** in place. If it doesn't then the magnet/cable assembly must be bad.

 

I'll check it tomorrow but I just replaced the under the dash stuff with good parts

 

Ok these are the wires I have and neither of them have power when the key is on. Any ideas?

 

I'll have to take a look at my old 83 tomorrow, but the wiring diagram says the wires should be Black/white and Blue/white. The Black/white should be the vertical part of the "T" and the Blue/white should be the horizontal terminal.

 

my bad my engines a 79 but the cars an 83 but i used a tester on it today and there seems to be no power what so ever going to the plug right now

 

That changes everything. From the 79 wiring diagram...the Blue/black wire supplies power for the temp switch-choke magnet. This wire does come from the ECU. I've never owned an SA so I don't have direct experience, but I think we found why your choke **** doesn't stay out. I'm sure that's not the only thing that's not working correctly if you have a 79 harness and engine plugged into an 83 harness and ECU.

 

could there be a way for me to give it 12v constant when the car is on so that it'll stay out and then i can just push the choke in by hand?

 

I just looked at the fsm (which i have a hell of a time reading) and it looks like one of the wires coming from the temp sensor goes through the hot start assist so since mine is removed do i need a jumper wire there too?

 

You might, I don't have the FSM for both cars infront of me right now so I can't be 100% sure. You're probably going to have to get both FSM and figure out what is different from your system and what workarounds you're going to need.

 

The hot start assist wire Ts into the power wire for the choke magnet. You don't need a jumper. If the Blue/white wire in your plug is connected to the choke magnet through the 79 harness and into the 83 harness ( I doubt it), then you can supply switched 12V to the Blue/black wire and the choke magnet should work. The wiring diagram shows your Blue/black wire should be Black/light blue. The older diagrams have multiple misprints. I'm guessing this might be one of them. According to the 79 diagram the top wire in the T is where the switched 12V is needed. The bottom of the T is the wire going to the choke magnet. This is opposite the configuration in the FB plug. This is all from the wiring diagram. I don't have an SA to check. Maybe an SA owner can confirm the wire colors for you.

 

Yeah a asked the previous owner and he said that though the engine is a 79 the harness is still an 83. So just supply the black/blue wire with 12v gotcha. I'll run it through a relay.

 

I read that sterling says you should use an extra (additional) gasket on the accelerator pump. So does the extra gasket go between the carb body and the diaphragm or the diaphragm and the accelerator pump?

 

I usually use two gaskets on each side of the diaphragm. I also stretch the spring out a bit. Then I sometimes add an extension piece to the lever. This is all according to Sterling's instructions. I tailor them so they work for me. I also use a '79 accel pump banjo bolt or take an FB bolt and drill out the small jet at the bottom. The 79 did not have a small jet down there. I leave the upper two holes alone and do not touch the two holes in the squirter (I beleive it's pot metal and I don't have a small enough drill bit, nor do they need to be drilled for the carb mods I usually do).

 

Well I only have one extra gasket. So what does stretching the spring do?

 

Also if I'm not gonna be using the choke butterfly do I need to bend the fast idle linkage?

 

Ok so I've removed the choke butterfly so do I need to bend the fast idle linkage? Also someone said to fill the holes left from the choke butterfly rod with JB weld so I picked some up but have no experience using it so I just filled the holes with red high temp gasket maker. Will this be ok or is it a bad idea?

 

I think that the butterfly that you wanted to remove was the one inside the intake manifold. I forget what it's called, but if it malfunctions then it can cause a huge restriction.

Rather than using the putty to seal it, I simply removed the metal plate and left the shaft in place.









.

 

No I'm talking about the large choke butterfly someone said I didn't need it as long as I still have the fast idle connected

 

The one inside the manifold is the shutter valve. Prevents backfire on deceleration or something or other. But yea, if it doesn't work and gets stuck closed it'll be closing off one of the primary ports on your intake. You might as well remove that sucker tooo while you're in there / have the carb off.

 

Yeah but I read somewhere that it's better to just rig it to stay open because if you remove it there will be more air flow through that port because it's larger than the other primary port but I don't know if it would hurt to just remove it. I would see why there would be though.

 

You could remove both butterflies if you want. I usually remove them both. I prefer how clean the carb looks without it.

 

but do i need to bend the fast idle linkage to compensate for not having the butterfly?

 

but do i need to bend the fast idle linkage? also what do you fill the holes left by the butterfly rod with?