carb leaking
#1
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
carb leaking
Well today I drove to my moms house and when I got there my cars idle was jumping from 1100-1300 and sounded like poop. so I turned her off and about 3 secounds after I turned her off. my parents neighbors are hitting the deck from the back fire. This never happend before but made me kind of laugh. So I come back out and start the car back up forgeting about earlyer and am reminded of irregular idle. So I pop the hood and inspect for vaucum leaks, one of the cables were loose. I tightened them up reved it up and boom back to normal.
Then I happen to notice a wet spot on the front rotor side of my carb. so I wipe my finger on it and give it a wiff. gas....
so I turn the car off and take the carb hat off. the leak is coming from the front roters fuel inlet fitting. should I just tighten it or what. I don't know **** about carbs. I'm sure I can fix this just need some advice on what I need to do. do I need some sort of sealent/gasket? I'll post a picture of what I'm talking about.
Then I happen to notice a wet spot on the front rotor side of my carb. so I wipe my finger on it and give it a wiff. gas....
so I turn the car off and take the carb hat off. the leak is coming from the front roters fuel inlet fitting. should I just tighten it or what. I don't know **** about carbs. I'm sure I can fix this just need some advice on what I need to do. do I need some sort of sealent/gasket? I'll post a picture of what I'm talking about.
#2
Try and tighten it. DO NOT over tighten it. Put a wrench on it (14mm I believe) and try to turn it. If it will not turn unless some force is behind it, then do not tighten it. Remove it and check the mating surfaces. I can't recall if it has crush washers or washers in general, but make sure those are still in good shape.
#3
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Those are called "banjo fittings", and they have an aluminum crush washer between the top of the bolt and the fitting, and between the fitting and the carb.
The carb's top (air horn) is made of cast aluminum. Real brittle stuff, so just like Jeezus said, be real careful tightening.
The carb's top (air horn) is made of cast aluminum. Real brittle stuff, so just like Jeezus said, be real careful tightening.
#4
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
so where can I get a new crush washer? what do I need to ask for specify. can someone give me the size it is also so I can double check before I purchase. parts stores tend to give me the wrong parts often around here.
#5
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
so. took off the banjo fitting and almost didn't see the crush washer. it was toast. breaking apart and all. So I went to shucks, auto zone, car quest, and Fred Meyer trying to find one of these. I know what I'm looking for, but all I'm getting is dumb looks. I did find some but none fit. Should I check ACE or Home Depot? I was even looking at small spark plugs to try and find one to fit.
Is there no knowledge requirements to work in a parts store???
Is there no knowledge requirements to work in a parts store???
#6
If you can't find a suitable washer, you could always consider getting a complete carb kit. I think they usually come with washers, although some might not be as high-quality as the stock ones.
Obviously it would cost a bit more though since you're getting gaskets etc too, but you'll at least have the stuff around if you ever decide to rebuild your carb.
Maybe someone has a better idea though.
Obviously it would cost a bit more though since you're getting gaskets etc too, but you'll at least have the stuff around if you ever decide to rebuild your carb.
Maybe someone has a better idea though.
#7
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Carb kit is the only way I've ever bought them.
Parts fische show an original MAZDA part number of 0730-23-318, discribed only as "gasket." Quantity 4 per vehicle. No idea if they are still available or not.
I can measure them for you tonight when you get home, if you'd like; would make finding them easier.
If you have absolutely no luck finding them, and can wait for the Post Office, I probably have a couple useable spares I could mail you; PM me your address if you need them.
Parts fische show an original MAZDA part number of 0730-23-318, discribed only as "gasket." Quantity 4 per vehicle. No idea if they are still available or not.
I can measure them for you tonight when you get home, if you'd like; would make finding them easier.
If you have absolutely no luck finding them, and can wait for the Post Office, I probably have a couple useable spares I could mail you; PM me your address if you need them.
Trending Topics
#8
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Carb kit is the only way I've ever bought them.
Parts fische show an original MAZDA part number of 0730-23-318, discribed only as "gasket." Quantity 4 per vehicle. No idea if they are still available or not.
I can measure them for you tonight when you get home, if you'd like; would make finding them easier.
If you have absolutely no luck finding them, and can wait for the Post Office, I probably have a couple useable spares I could mail you; PM me your address if you need them.
Parts fische show an original MAZDA part number of 0730-23-318, discribed only as "gasket." Quantity 4 per vehicle. No idea if they are still available or not.
I can measure them for you tonight when you get home, if you'd like; would make finding them easier.
If you have absolutely no luck finding them, and can wait for the Post Office, I probably have a couple useable spares I could mail you; PM me your address if you need them.
There copper crush washers not aluminum, it was all I could find. I drove to every part store I could find. Finally Napa had some I found an exact match for the lower one, and a very close match for the top. I had to take a file and bore out the middle a litte but its a tight fit now. I don't think its leaking any more.
I know the copper is a bit stiffer than the aluminum ones, but will this hold up or no?
#10
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Copper will probably be fine; the jet access screws on the float bowls use copper washers, so it shouldn't be a corrosion issue or anything.
Bottom line is, if it works, it works. Probably aluminum was preferred because the larger size woule require a little more force to seal with copper. Plus, aluminum costs a lot less than copper when you're making 40 bazillion of these things.
Bottom line is, if it works, it works. Probably aluminum was preferred because the larger size woule require a little more force to seal with copper. Plus, aluminum costs a lot less than copper when you're making 40 bazillion of these things.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 08:16 PM
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
09-18-15 08:13 PM