Carb floats
01-16-02, 04:21 PM
#1
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Carb floats
I just rebuilt my carb. After installing, I checked the float levels.
The front is just above the half way hash marks
The rear is higher than 3/4 up the window.
What effect will this have? The car idles great, both high and low and in the short drive it seemed good.
THanks
The front is just above the half way hash marks
The rear is higher than 3/4 up the window.
What effect will this have? The car idles great, both high and low and in the short drive it seemed good.
THanks
Last edited by duck; 01-16-02 at 04:26 PM.
01-16-02, 04:49 PM
#2
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
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Readjusting the rear float wouldnt take very long (just take the airhorn off, not the whole carb). The factory manual says anything from 1/2 to 3/4 up the sight glass is acceptable. If you think you're off by a bit, you're better off doing it now before flooding out somewhere. Make sure you're seeing that sight properly (with a mirror)... sometimes it can be tricky to get an accurate look at it.
01-16-02, 04:51 PM
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Hunting Skylines
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Running different float levels front to rear will mean different a/f mixtures at higher rpm between the front and rear rotor due to the difference in float drop. You should try to get them level and the height should be halfway or slightly above at the most. Getting them exactly level can take a bit of trial and error so when I make an adjustment I install the airhorn with only two bolts, hook the fuels lines up, run the fuel pump and check the sight glasses. Better than hooking EVERYTHING up and then realising they still need adjusting.
Last edited by REVHED; 01-16-02 at 04:57 PM.
01-16-02, 05:14 PM
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I thought I would have to adjust it.
I was going to check the floats before I got it totally reassembled, but Haynes says to check the floats with the engine operating.
I was going to check the floats before I got it totally reassembled, but Haynes says to check the floats with the engine operating.
01-16-02, 05:15 PM
#5
Old [Sch|F]ool
I used to run the carb with no choke, no smog equipment, and no screws at ALL for the top cover/air horn... the air cleaner stud holds the carb together nicely and it's only a 14mm wrench to pop the top off once you get the air cleaner off. (Having no smog stuff is cool)
01-16-02, 06:09 PM
#6
Hunting Skylines
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Yep, there's actually a carb there under all the ****. Mine is stripped completely. There is absolutely nothing left on the carb except for the accel cable, fuel lines and choke cable. I've removed the choke itself but I've left the cable on there so I can use the fast idle when the engines cold. I really don't see the need for any of the other hundred or so devices, solenoids and other crap. Mine runs perfectly without em.