Car won't stay running
#1
Car won't stay running
i have an 85 gsl 12a automatic. the motor has no miles on it since kdr rebuilt it. the car starts and runs but when i take my foot off the gas pedal it stalls. any ideas why? i put a new fuel pump and relay on. the carb is only 3 years old. could it need a rebuild or could there be something else? thanks, vic
#4
My 85 GS does the same thing. Sometimes even when the choke is disengaged, the car will stall. I need to keep the revs around 2K for about 5 mins to warm her up before taking off. Kind of a PIA, but once she's warmed up, she'll go forever...
Kevin
85 GS
99 10AE Miata
Kevin
85 GS
99 10AE Miata
#5
the timing is set to factory. the car is at a shop here in nj. the guy said he is going to take the carb off and clean it out. he seems to think it is dirty. the car sat for 1 year before the rebuild so it is possible. i was just wondering if the idle could be adjusted or something....maybe the fuel filter needs to be changed... duh... i just thought about that. could help. vic
#6
Try using some of that Carb clean stuff from (I was gonna say Motomaster but that's from Canadian Tire.... oops) your local auto parts store. Cheap, and may help. It helped my car after it sat for about a year...
#7
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Fargo, ND
Just a thought?
Many of us have had the same problem, For me it was mixture and idle set too low but I also suspect a vacume leak. I just was wondering if any one here has had a car that will stay running at low rpm ~750 with out any problems or if most of us set our idle a little higher just to keep them running? Also has anyone found a good diagram for all the vacume lines on later first gen cars? because I think if I had a better idea of what every thing was it would be alot easier to know what I could live without. (my rats nest seems fine but the pasenger side of my carb has a few things I have no idea what they do or are but one is sucking air awfull hard But I don't see any missing hoses any place that would lead to this thing. If I plug it will I be able to lower my idle and keep the car form stalling out?
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#8
There was a good thread on here about adjusting the carb.
You set the idle at 800 rpm then adjust the mixture screw to the highest possible idle then readjust the idle to 800 rpm with the idle screw.
Vic (same name different planet)
You set the idle at 800 rpm then adjust the mixture screw to the highest possible idle then readjust the idle to 800 rpm with the idle screw.
Vic (same name different planet)
#9
check this vacuum hose
Right on your intake manifold, the lower left side. side closet to the firewall. check to see if the large vacuum hose has a burned hole in it, from your exhaust manifold heat. you will have to pull it out and check it, I have found many Idle problems right on that vacuum hose..
#10
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 0
From: London, England/Sesimbra, Portugal
You should be able to properly idle the Nikki carb setup from as low as 500 rpm at normal operating temperatures with all accesories off. Most people increase their idle SPEED to 800-1000rpm to avoid cold weather stalling and to reduce the risk of stalling when starting from a stop.
#11
i had a problem with my car dying before the car would warm up all the way, it only happened maybe three times a week, and it would usually die when I stopped at a red light. It turned out to be a bad ground! I had it replaced and she has been running good ever since.
#12
The reason it won't idle well is probably because it's a new motor. As it wears in you'll find the idle speed increasing and you'll have to keep adjusting the carb. For now just set it high enough so that it idles.
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