Car won't start - possibly flooded
04-12-12 | 06:43 PM
#51
To me, part of the problem is you keep getting sidetracked trying to evualate your problems or chasing rabbits down holes before you know what direction to go. I agree, I think you have a lack of fuel problem. But without finding out for sure how do you know?
Spark and fuel make fire. Too much fuel drowns out the spark preventing fire (thats flooding). If you confirm spark and don't have evidence of flooding, you look for not enough fuel. Cars left to sit for long periods can develop moisture in the tank due to condensation caused by normal heating and cooling everyday along with water in the gas itself. This is what rusts the tank. These tiny particles of rust and gunk float around and will naturally gravitate to where the fuel flow exits the tank. Over time the fragmants and gunk get stuck on the strainer until it cuts off the flow. Where do you think all that black crap in your old fuel filter came from?
If you confirm spark and you car runs on starting fluid but dies when you quit spraying, its most likely lack of fuel. You can get a pressure gage and all that, but all you have to do is remove the line going to the carb and visaully see how much presure you have with the key on and the pump running. Use an empy oil can or other container to pump it into. It should come out in a good steady stream like a good *** pee.
If you have good flow, the problem could be in the carb. If its just dribbling, you need to isolate the problem between the pump and the tank. I'd disconnect the line between the tank and the pump. You can run a line from a can of gas to the fuel pump and re check the flow at the carb. If you have good flow, I'd start looking at the tank. Remove your gas cap and and blow pressured back into the tank through the line you removed from the fuel pump inlet using a blow gun and compresor. If you have a bunch of crud plugging your strainer, this might help dislodge it. The only way to really fix this kind of problem is to drop the tank, drain and clean it out good. Some radiator shops can boil out, clean, seal and presure test you gas tank too. Who said old cars aren't fun....
Spark and fuel make fire. Too much fuel drowns out the spark preventing fire (thats flooding). If you confirm spark and don't have evidence of flooding, you look for not enough fuel. Cars left to sit for long periods can develop moisture in the tank due to condensation caused by normal heating and cooling everyday along with water in the gas itself. This is what rusts the tank. These tiny particles of rust and gunk float around and will naturally gravitate to where the fuel flow exits the tank. Over time the fragmants and gunk get stuck on the strainer until it cuts off the flow. Where do you think all that black crap in your old fuel filter came from?
If you confirm spark and you car runs on starting fluid but dies when you quit spraying, its most likely lack of fuel. You can get a pressure gage and all that, but all you have to do is remove the line going to the carb and visaully see how much presure you have with the key on and the pump running. Use an empy oil can or other container to pump it into. It should come out in a good steady stream like a good *** pee.
If you have good flow, the problem could be in the carb. If its just dribbling, you need to isolate the problem between the pump and the tank. I'd disconnect the line between the tank and the pump. You can run a line from a can of gas to the fuel pump and re check the flow at the carb. If you have good flow, I'd start looking at the tank. Remove your gas cap and and blow pressured back into the tank through the line you removed from the fuel pump inlet using a blow gun and compresor. If you have a bunch of crud plugging your strainer, this might help dislodge it. The only way to really fix this kind of problem is to drop the tank, drain and clean it out good. Some radiator shops can boil out, clean, seal and presure test you gas tank too. Who said old cars aren't fun....
04-12-12 | 07:22 PM
#52
here is the list.
The pump http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P60430/ part # CRT-P60430
The regulator- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-804/ Part# HLY-12-804
The gauge http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1561/ Part# MRG-1561
Filter (front) http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1226&ppt=C0262 Part # 9706
Good luck and have fun!
04-12-12 | 07:33 PM
#53
you can find cheaper stuff, but thats all up to you. that carter pump IS QUIET AS A CHURCH MOUSE Pissing on cotton!! 
but seriously though all the others ive heard of humm and buzz LOUD.
there is one thing it comes with a filter. BUT PUT A LONGER HOSE IN BETWEEN THE FILTER AND THE PUMP! like 3-4 inches or so... the way they ship it to you its too close and wont build pressure ask me how i know.....
youll see what i mean by the picture.
and dude leaving it factory is just asking for trouble. for the price of a "factory" pump you can buy every ling listed.. but to each his own. BUT your pump MAY or May not be fine.. but you'll only know that by dropping it and testing it, but for "my money" its worth it to replace it. i mean its 25 years old.... let it die in peace or keep it as a backup spare..
and as far the muratic acid goes... i got mine from a chemical supply my dad has a contract with from work. but ive been told its readily available at home depo but i couldn't be sure one way or the other on that.
phew that was alot... but i hope it helps so get your *** out there and test it out and have your wallet ready... then its
!!!!!!!!!!!
but seriously though all the others ive heard of humm and buzz LOUD.there is one thing it comes with a filter. BUT PUT A LONGER HOSE IN BETWEEN THE FILTER AND THE PUMP! like 3-4 inches or so... the way they ship it to you its too close and wont build pressure ask me how i know.....
youll see what i mean by the picture. and dude leaving it factory is just asking for trouble. for the price of a "factory" pump you can buy every ling listed.. but to each his own. BUT your pump MAY or May not be fine.. but you'll only know that by dropping it and testing it, but for "my money" its worth it to replace it. i mean its 25 years old.... let it die in peace or keep it as a backup spare..
and as far the muratic acid goes... i got mine from a chemical supply my dad has a contract with from work. but ive been told its readily available at home depo but i couldn't be sure one way or the other on that.
phew that was alot... but i hope it helps so get your *** out there and test it out and have your wallet ready... then its
!!!!!!!!!!!
04-12-12 | 09:32 PM
#54
Muratic acid is a product used to clean, etch and prep stone and masonary. I've also used it on 2 stroke motors to remove small aluminum piston deposits from clyinder walls after a light sieze. It's a less caustic alternative to hydrochloric acid but I'd be careful, cause it can still eat aluminum.
04-12-12 | 09:37 PM
#55
To me, part of the problem is you keep getting sidetracked trying to evaluate your problems or chasing rabbits down holes before you know what direction to go. I agree, I think you have a lack of fuel problem. But without finding out for sure how do you know?
Spark and fuel make fire. Too much fuel drowns out the spark preventing fire (thats flooding). If you confirm spark and don't have evidence of flooding, you look for not enough fuel. Cars left to sit for long periods can develop moisture in the tank due to condensation caused by normal heating and cooling everyday along with water in the gas itself. This is what rusts the tank. These tiny particles of rust and gunk float around and will naturally gravitate to where the fuel flow exits the tank. Over time the fragments and gunk get stuck on the strainer until it cuts off the flow. Where do you think all that black crap in your old fuel filter came from?
If you confirm spark and you car runs on starting fluid but dies when you quit spraying, its most likely lack of fuel. You can get a pressure gauge and all that, but all you have to do is remove the line going to the carb and visually see how much presure you have with the key on and the pump running. Use an empty oil can or other container to pump it into. It should come out in a good steady stream like a good *** pee.
If you have good flow, the problem could be in the carb. If its just dribbling, you need to isolate the problem between the pump and the tank. I'd disconnect the line between the tank and the pump. You can run a line from a can of gas to the fuel pump and re check the flow at the carb. If you have good flow, I'd start looking at the tank. Remove your gas cap and and blow pressured back into the tank through the line you removed from the fuel pump inlet using a blow gun and compressor. If you have a bunch of crud plugging your strainer, this might help dislodge it. The only way to really fix this kind of problem is to drop the tank, drain and clean it out good. Some radiator shops can boil out, clean, seal and pressure test you gas tank too. Who said old cars aren't fun....
Spark and fuel make fire. Too much fuel drowns out the spark preventing fire (thats flooding). If you confirm spark and don't have evidence of flooding, you look for not enough fuel. Cars left to sit for long periods can develop moisture in the tank due to condensation caused by normal heating and cooling everyday along with water in the gas itself. This is what rusts the tank. These tiny particles of rust and gunk float around and will naturally gravitate to where the fuel flow exits the tank. Over time the fragments and gunk get stuck on the strainer until it cuts off the flow. Where do you think all that black crap in your old fuel filter came from?
If you confirm spark and you car runs on starting fluid but dies when you quit spraying, its most likely lack of fuel. You can get a pressure gauge and all that, but all you have to do is remove the line going to the carb and visually see how much presure you have with the key on and the pump running. Use an empty oil can or other container to pump it into. It should come out in a good steady stream like a good *** pee.
If you have good flow, the problem could be in the carb. If its just dribbling, you need to isolate the problem between the pump and the tank. I'd disconnect the line between the tank and the pump. You can run a line from a can of gas to the fuel pump and re check the flow at the carb. If you have good flow, I'd start looking at the tank. Remove your gas cap and and blow pressured back into the tank through the line you removed from the fuel pump inlet using a blow gun and compressor. If you have a bunch of crud plugging your strainer, this might help dislodge it. The only way to really fix this kind of problem is to drop the tank, drain and clean it out good. Some radiator shops can boil out, clean, seal and pressure test you gas tank too. Who said old cars aren't fun....
Thanks, Duffman, Kevin, Venom, Banzai, and everyone else.
I'll report with news this weekend. Wish me luck, hopefully it's a simple fix.
04-12-12 | 09:44 PM
#56
i diluted it,,,, i forgot how much i gotta my dad hes the one who handle that stuff. so there want a threat of it doing to much damage or anything its not to harsh. but it came out Spotlessly clean. just coat it with something afterward
04-15-12 | 06:17 PM
#57
I had that same crud in my fuel filter, here's what I did: Drop the tank, clean it out, make sure you get the strainer in the tank really clean, replace the filter, blow the lines out with compressed air including the return lines, rebuild the carb. That got me back on the road, maybe it will help you.
04-16-12 | 11:17 AM
#58
Well I removed the fuel in line and nothing.
<a href="http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii625/Redliner223/?action=view&current=ggg.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii625/Redliner223/ggg.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
What's sitting at the bottom is old brake fluid.
<a href="http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii625/Redliner223/?action=view&current=ggg.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii625/Redliner223/ggg.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
What's sitting at the bottom is old brake fluid.
04-16-12 | 11:21 AM
#59
Sorry guys for some reason the full image picture isn't working.
You will have to copy and paste the link into a available tab on you web browser.
Looks like the fuel pump or gas tank is the problem.
What kind of rewiring am I looking at for the fuel pump?
The link the picture from sumit shows two prongs on the pump, is it just a plug at play type of thing or will I have to have an adapter?
Where will the fuel regulator go also?
You will have to copy and paste the link into a available tab on you web browser.
Looks like the fuel pump or gas tank is the problem.
What kind of rewiring am I looking at for the fuel pump?
The link the picture from sumit shows two prongs on the pump, is it just a plug at play type of thing or will I have to have an adapter?
Where will the fuel regulator go also?
04-16-12 | 02:41 PM
#61
good news. glad you got it working... hopefully the tank isnt to bad. let us know with pictures what hiding in there
04-16-12 | 04:16 PM
#62
Good show!
Probably just some crud in the tank clogging the "sock" on the pickup (if there is one - maybe just the pickup tube naked in there, in which case, just some crud in the pickup tube.)
Good news is that you can pull the fuel level sender from the driver's side rear wheel well and at least get a look inside the tank. If it was kept full when parked for so long, rust shouldn't be a problem, but there may be varnish and other nasties from old fuel.
Probably just some crud in the tank clogging the "sock" on the pickup (if there is one - maybe just the pickup tube naked in there, in which case, just some crud in the pickup tube.)
Good news is that you can pull the fuel level sender from the driver's side rear wheel well and at least get a look inside the tank. If it was kept full when parked for so long, rust shouldn't be a problem, but there may be varnish and other nasties from old fuel.
04-16-12 | 10:47 PM
#63
Yeah, she now purrs like a kitten.
She's now idling at a strong and healthy 1,000 RPM's.
I want to bring that down to 800 again, but in due time.
Next up brakes and good old fashion tank cleaning.
She's now idling at a strong and healthy 1,000 RPM's.
I want to bring that down to 800 again, but in due time.
Next up brakes and good old fashion tank cleaning.
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