1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Car won't start - possibly flooded

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-11-12 | 02:08 PM
  #26  
KansasCityREPU's Avatar
Out In the Barn
Veteran: Navy
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 6,263
Likes: 1,074
From: KC
Have you tried staring fluid? this might tell you if it's a fuel issue. Have you removed the supply fuel line from the carb to make sure its getting fuel? Pull the line and put it in a 2 littler bottel. There is a procedure in the factory sevvice manual on how much fuel it should supply.
Old 04-11-12 | 02:17 PM
  #27  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
No, I haven't tried starting fluid yet. That's for the weekend. If it's going to smoke like what Kevin posted, the fire department is most likely going to be called to my house. I would rather explain to them what's going on saturday or sunday.
No, I haven't pulled the line off. If it's not receiving the right amount of fuel I'm most likely going to need a new pump right?
I have another question if the replacement fuel filter is say half an inch shorter than the one it replaced, will that mess with the pressure in the fuel system at all? allowing the system to not deliver the right amount of fuel. I'm 90% this is not true, but it's on my suspect list.
Also will starting fluid mess the carb or engine up in any way?
Old 04-11-12 | 03:50 PM
  #28  
duffman692002's Avatar
I am Me. I am special.
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Quinlan, TX
What Kevin did was ATF, starting fluid isn't gonna smoke like that and it won't hurt the carb.
Old 04-11-12 | 03:51 PM
  #29  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Went out and tried starting her once more. Put five pumps in and then turned her over, started for a second then died.
Old 04-11-12 | 03:51 PM
  #30  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Will it harm the internal part of the engine?
The rotors or the coating on the housings?
Old 04-11-12 | 03:57 PM
  #31  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Found this http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/atftrick.htm
It's about the ATF trick.
I'm sure Aaron runs a Fc or Fd just from his profile.
He talks about putting the ATF into the spark plug holes and not the primaries.
If I were to use this method where should I insert the fluid?
What amount of ATF should I use?
Aaron talks about ATF causing serious damage if too much is used.
Old 04-11-12 | 04:12 PM
  #32  
duffman692002's Avatar
I am Me. I am special.
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Quinlan, TX
No, it wont hurt the housing.
Old 04-11-12 | 04:22 PM
  #33  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Fwew, good.
Old 04-11-12 | 04:24 PM
  #34  
duffman692002's Avatar
I am Me. I am special.
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Quinlan, TX
I don't think you'll need to dl the ATF thing. What ATF does in his instance is help temporarily build compression, it's like having you're OMP on full all the time. if it was flooded them what's happend is all the oil has been washed from the seals and housings, not ideal but it should still be able to catch and start. Someone previously posted about how the started doesn't provided enough RPM is sorta what we're dealing with. I betcha she would fire right up if you can have your dad tow you behind that SUV for a stretch.

We need to be sure it's getting fuel by pulling the fuel line from the car and turning the ignition to activate the pump. I don't think your pump is bad since it ran previously nor do I think the filter is an issue as I run essentially the same one. I'm 90% sure we're dealing with a severly flooded rotary.
Old 04-11-12 | 04:25 PM
  #35  
duffman692002's Avatar
I am Me. I am special.
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Quinlan, TX
Pardon the typos, I'm on an iPod.
Old 04-11-12 | 05:06 PM
  #36  
myfree7's Avatar
Senior Member

 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
From: troy
first things first. never pop-start a rotary engine.... ever!
second. the best way to de-flood the motor is to pull at least one spark plug out of each housing and turn it over until gas stops misting out.
third. atf or mmo is actually good for the motor as far as loosening up stuck springs and other things and will not hurt the housings.
forth. what is the condition of your plugs, plug wires, dist. cap, coils and ignitors?

i started my car up the other day to find only the rear rotor firing. after checking everything i found that my plugs were fouled out. have you checked the compression of both rotors?
Old 04-11-12 | 06:15 PM
  #37  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Like I said before everything is old, plain and simple. The age of everything replaceable is an estimated age of 18 years. Although everything worked just fine before, and is surprisingly great shape. Like I said the car was run once and a while, it only sat idle for long periods of time during the winter.
No, the motors have not been compression tested, due to no money and time.
I need more people to weigh in on this. I want a vote.
Push start or ATF? Which method should be used, this vote will last till Sunday night. Upon time running out that preceding weekend the voted method will be put into action.
I need this car running ASAP, as it might turn into a daily for a month or two by the end of the month. It all depends on my brother getting a job.
I have no money for an engine or transmission rebuild, so I can't screw up anything to the point of replacing something.
Old 04-11-12 | 07:53 PM
  #38  
Banzai's Avatar
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 441
From: Iowa
When you pulled the plugs and turned it over, did you smell gas? Were the plugs wet? These are indications of flooding. If the answer is no to those questions, I'd remove the air cleaner cover and spray a little starting fluid in the carb and give it a try. If its not flooded, you are most probablly missing either fuel or spark. That is where you start to isolate the problem. It ran before so thats a good thing. Just hearing your fuel pump running is not a gurantee that its actually getting fuel to the carb. As mentioned before, if you have some rust floating around in your tank, it could have setteled in your pickup outlet (inside the tank) and is clogging the flow of fuel to where the fuel pump can't suck it out.
Old 04-11-12 | 08:03 PM
  #39  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
I do smell gas in the carb whenever I open the air cleaner.
I don't remember if the plugs were wet, I didn't get a chance to pull them today.
Old 04-11-12 | 08:10 PM
  #40  
Banzai's Avatar
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 441
From: Iowa
I'm asking if you smelled gas comming from the sparkplug holes as you were turning it over and the engine was pumping out air. The carb will most likely always smell like gas.
Old 04-11-12 | 08:15 PM
  #41  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Sorry, my bad. I don't remember to be honest.
I didn't get a chance to pull them today.
It smelled like gas once I was done, but I don't know if that was already in there or if the couple pumps of gas I put into it was the source while I was trying to start her over.
Old 04-11-12 | 08:33 PM
  #42  
Banzai's Avatar
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 441
From: Iowa
No problem. Just take things in steps. If you suspect flooding (not sure why) then look for signs of it. Pull the plugs to see if they are shinny or wet with fuel. Turn it over and see if your pumping gas mist out the plug holes (extremely flooded) or if you can just smell gas (mildy flooded). Put the wires back on the plugs, ground at least one from each housing and check to make sure you have spark from both coils. Re install the plugs, try a little starting fluid and give it a crank. If it fires and dies after a few seconds, I'd suspect a fuel fow problem of some sorts.
Old 04-11-12 | 08:39 PM
  #43  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Thanks Banzai.
Old 04-11-12 | 09:09 PM
  #44  
duffman692002's Avatar
I am Me. I am special.
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Quinlan, TX
Hey Banzai,

I pulled the leading and trailing plug out of both, they were wet but it was hardly noticeable. Had Red turn it over a few time to verify it was getting spark, had a nice blue one. Didn't notice any fuel getting blown out though we didn't turn it over more than say 4 times. He's got a spare set of plugs which would be worth a try if the current one are fouled after blowing any fuel out that might be there.
Old 04-12-12 | 11:37 AM
  #45  
Banzai's Avatar
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 441
From: Iowa
And so you suspect flooding because why?
Old 04-12-12 | 12:43 PM
  #46  
Rotor_Venom08's Avatar
Don't Cross The Streams..

iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
TX

id bet you arent getting fuel... if your spark is good and its not puking fuel out of the plugs or smoke out the exhaust, its not flooded.

disconnect the incoming fuel line from the carb and pour it into a bottle and measure it and if nothing is coming out... then its time to drop that nasty gas tank clean the pickup, and strainer, blow out all the lines and maybe get a new pump, and regulator and filter(s) PLURAL.. then come back with the news.

BTW i used muratic acid to clean mine 2 gallons of the stuff. let it sit rnse nad repeat...

one filter before the pump and another before the carb try orielly get one of those glass ones for the front that you can change the cartridge out on there like 5 bucks, and use the plastic one for the back.

i highly recommend the low psi carter pump, i have the part number here if you need it, along with a low psi holley regulator. iwent a step ahead and replace my stock hard lines with SS braided lines all the way.. but thats just me.
Old 04-12-12 | 01:11 PM
  #47  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Can you please supply sources for what you used Venom.
Thank you.
Is what you used compatible with my '79?
Old 04-12-12 | 01:37 PM
  #48  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Isn't the fuel pump offered by Mazdatrix a stock new old pump.
Link: http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-400B-8871
Old 04-12-12 | 02:55 PM
  #49  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
Venom how did you keep your tank from rusting out again?
I'm sure you bought a sealer. Did you purchase a kit?
Where did you dump the acid once you were done?
Old 04-12-12 | 05:35 PM
  #50  
Redliner223's Avatar
Thread Starter
Oldschool
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 2
From: DFW
So I read the FSM, like always had some awesome information in there. Can someone please give me a link to pressure gauge and a restrictor that they use or would work just fine for the fuel pressure test.
The FSM says connect a pressure gauge, a restictor and a flexible hose so that the fuel can be discharged into a suitable container. I'm kinda lost as to how that set would work. Can someone shed some light on this please?


Quick Reply: Car won't start - possibly flooded



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:28 PM.