ProdigyDevil

well no i have the part that has the butterfly bolt keeping it on, off, the one were the hoses and stuff attach to, but i have tryed with it on, and yeah it still didnt work lol, and that smoke kinda smells electrical/plastic so i dunno what it is..

ProdigyDevil

Going to get my plugs~!!, WISH ME LUCK EVERYBODY, or i have a feeling this will be getting moved to the "kill" forum soon~

"NOOOOOooooooo"

ProdigyDevil

Oh.. ANd can anyone tell me how to tell how bad my timing is off if i dont have a timing mark on my belt?? i have a timing light, i just need to know what to match it up to..

ProdigyDevil

Anyone know how to figure out how to time it with out pulling off the pulley, caz so far thats all ive found and i dont have the ability to do that right now.

FB II

ok, i read most of this, but got lost i dunno. you say compression is good... but there's no way. it would have cranked. i went thru this exact situation a few times. but my compression was low. ran great when cranked, but if it flooded it was a ***** to recover. now here's what i did with my low compression. worked every fuggin time.

get 5w30 motor oil, pour a **** LOAD down each barrel of the carb. and i'm serious, like 4 cap fulls atleast each barrel. make sure plugs are decent, etc..... good battery, turn it over while pumping the gas some. should fire right up. i had almost 0 compression on the front rotor and i could get it to crank up first try with this method.

Rotor13B

I told you plugs, If your gonna ask at least take heed of the suggestions. Flooding a rotary is way different than floodinga boinger. Hate to say I told you so.

ProdigyDevil

13b.. the plugs are still fine.. nothing is wrong with them.., and from when i had the meltdown, that is when i replaced the plugs, that melt down happend after me owning the car for 4 days.. since then its been sitting in my drive way not starting.. it has been unflooded many times, and i now have the new ngk's but it is still not starting, it truely sounds like it wants to now.. how ever it isnt working, i think it is the carb.. and the air/fuel mixture getting produced by it, some times its spraying, sometimes its just squirting, im not sure, but i think when i get the money im going to replace it with something aftermarket.. unless this could be something with the fuel pressure, and like i have said before, i dont know of a way for myself to check my fuel pressure, so if anyone has a easy no money involved way for me to pull that off ill take that advice, and 13b i have been askin for a ride up to a parts store from my father for about a week to go buy the ngks it wasnt until this morning that he finally caved in.

Kentetsu

Have you checked the condition of the new cap/rotor? How's that looking? The fact that part of your ignition system melted down should be a clear indicator that your issue is electrical. But what would cause it? Only thing I can think of would possibly be a bad grounding issue between the motor and the chassis. You might consider just running a large gauge wire (temporarily) from the block to the negative post on the battery and see what happens.

hanman

OK, you need three things to start an engine, doesn't matter if it's rotary or piston.

1. Compression. This is the hardest to test on a rotary. First the easy way to find if you have a major problem: Pull the plugs, put your finger over the hole and have someone turn the engine over, you should have THREE good pulses on each rotor. Next the better way:
If you want a relatively accurate compression test you can use a conventional compression tester. Heres the process.
Disable the fuel system, pull the fusible link, plug the fuel lines whatever. You don't want fuel into the chambers when you are turning the engine over.

Pull all of the plug wires.
Pull the trailing (top) plugs from both rotors.
Screw in the compression tester in the top hole of the front rotor. Hold the release "pin" in on the tester, this will allow the pressure to immediately release on each compression "stroke".
Have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the car over while you watch the gauge. You should see the needle on the gauge start "bumping" up and down. After watching for a few cycles, you can see the three compression cycles. They should all be fairly consistent and not too low.
Repeat the process with the rear rotor.
Also, the car needs a fully charged battery and good starter. It needs to rotate around 250 rpm to get a decent reading.

2, Fuel. There are two windows in the carb. One in the front and one in the back. They should be exactly halfway full of fuel. No more, no less.
Look down in to the carb, when you press the gas pedal, you should see a small shot of fuel spray in to the carb. That is normal. In your situation, I would not even touch the gas pedal when you try and start it. If there is no fuel or not enough, back track. Start with the fuel filter, then the pump.

3. Spark. The guys are right, do not use anything other than NGK or NipponDenso plugs. Sorry to disagree with your dad, but tell him I am probably as older or older than him and have owned a rotary car since 1980. I know what I am talking about.
To check the spark, pull the plug wires and the plugs. Put the plug in the plug wire and lay it down on the side of the engine. Turn the engine over, you should see a strong blue spark on each plug. If not, backtrack. Coils, ignitors, dizzy cap, rotor etc.

I would also suggest replacing your battery cables. This will eliminate a number of hard to track issues.

Post your results.

ProdigyDevil

ok well i would have posted what i found on this but when my dad went to crank it today, a puff of white smoke came out of just against the fire wall like it had before, but this wasnt a stream it was just a little burst of smoke, and it stoped cranking, so im guessing the starter motor is gone now, with means this post wont be getting updated if this is the case as, i dont have the money to replace it, and im fairly sure my father will not own up to him being a part of its failure. if anyone has any idea what else this could be any help would be appretiated, when i turn the key i now here a soliniod click, and nothing else.. maybe that will be usefull..

Bob Boberson

iTrader: (3)

i used grease's method for restarting the engine after flooding it. it did the usual start where it reved up and white smoke was pouring out of the exhaust pipes. a few seconds after it got done warming up it cut off and wouldnt crank back. i think im going to redo the procedure and try giving it some gas at the same time tomorrow, as i have lost daylight. if this wouldnt be a good idea please repost telling me what is wrong or the correct thing to do, thanks.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Check your fuseable links, if you have a meltdown issue the puff of smoke was likely a link blowing.

hanman

Stand in front of the car, turn the headlights on. Have your father turn the engine on with the key. IF the headlights dim, it is battery related. If they don't dim it is the starter.
Man, if you can't afford a starter, you can't afford to drive. Hell it costs almost as much to fill the car up with gas as it does for a new starter. Plus, I am not convinced it is your starter. I think you may have bad battery cables.

razeeman

My girlfriend bought an RX-7...it ran fine and was garage kept when we bought it. After a few weeks of ownership it would not start for her. I went online and found this site and all the helpful suggestions to help start the car. What I found on her car was that rain water had found its way down into the storage well behind the front seat. There are fuel pump and other electrical connections in this well. I dried the wires and connectors out cleaned some contact points on the connections and the car started and has been starting fine since then.

ProdigyDevil

yeah.. well i took out the fuse links, and im stoping by a parts place tomorow, to get those replacement fuses, and a new starter motor for me is going to be around 140 dollars.. so id like to know were the hell ur buying ur gas lol, its only 2 bucks a gallon for me... and im not sure. my battery does drop down very quickly, even being paralell with another battery, and being connected to a charger, sits at around 12.6 volts, and while cranking from 12.6 it drops to around 10.5.. i can hear the fuel pump working, i see the liquid fuel stream going in the carb, i think my problem is i have liquid fuel, instead of "steam" fuel, no air fuel mixture, just fuel and w/e is getting sucked in with the carb.. so the spark cant ignite it.. maybe any one know why im not getting a mix? i havent messed with the mix screws... the compression is fine as i took out the plugs again today, i still have a strong 3 bursts coming out of each rotor, and i ran my carb dry today, put some carb cleaner in the bowls, and ran it through didnt help any with the fuel mix, is my air compresser toasted or something? a vaccumm dead? a soliniod fried ne thing like that, once i figure this starter motor out, i truely believe it has something to deal with the carb.. so can all u geniouses get off the electrical part for a moment and think about the fuel mixture not happening inside the carb.. comes out the get as a stream of liquid and drips on to the butterfly.. instead of Misting in to the barrel.

Kentetsu

Squirting instead of misting? Um, er, uh, that's like totally normal dude..... Isn't it?

Kentetsu

After reading one of your earlier posts, the one about the smoked starter, I was wondering if you have inspected the connection of the wires on the starter. A bad connection, or one fouled with grease/oil, might cause your issues as well as provide intermittent contact along with puffs of smoke as the sparks ignite the oil in the connection. Pull the wires and clean them up if you haven't already, you might not even need a starter. Good luck.

FB II

3 puffs with the spark plugs out just means the apex seals aren't shattered. you could still have low enough compression to make it hard as hell to start..... i know because mine gave out amazingly strong sounding puffs... wouldn't crank for ****. very low compression on front rotor, great in back.. both sounded the same to the ear. that motor is now installed in to the trash.

hanman

did you do the headlight thing?
The smoke from the firewall could be the ground wire also.
Take the starter to the parts store and they will test it for you for free. No need to replace it unless you know it's shot. Try a salvage yard for another starter.
You are over analyzing the carb. And the mixture screws won't affect starting, only after it is running.
The battery SHOULD be around 12.6, that is normal. It will run around 13.5 to 14.5 when running because of the alternator.
Have you checked the compression with a tester? Have you checked for spark.
Our advice will not help if you are not going to use it.
Quit looking for the "silver bullet" solution and go back to basics. You have to check one thing at a time and be patient. Re read my earlier post. Start there and post your results.
I understand how frustrating it is, but when you get it started you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you found and fixed the problem.

hanman

For your reading pleasure:
http://www.mazspeed.com/diagnosingdr...typroblems.htm

ProdigyDevil

i have checked the compression, on all faces of both rotors it was inbetween 92-98 psi, i have checked for spark on every ngk plug i am running, i have a new cap and rotor for the dizzy, i believe ive checked the grounds but maybe i checked the wrong ones if anyone could give me a placement of were i would find the correct ones you wish for me to check i will do soo, as soon as it stops raining im gonna go look for that oil in the starter thing u talked about, and im also going to run up to the local store and buy those boxed fusable link things. it was not the links hann but i have removed the links and im replacing them today hopefully.. ill give some updates and for now ill try and think possitive lol, and who ever said something about im not listening i am listening, and i know this post is getting long, i think i might move it to a new one so that people dont get discouraged with it being around 5 pages now.

Kentetsu

Basically, just clean your battery cables (at both ends) and any point at which the negative cable also bolts to the frame/body/engine. Should be done anyway, so even if this doesn't fix the issue you haven't really wasted any time. Good luck.

ProdigyDevil

the battery cable is new, and i just got back inside from rechecking the links, all perfect, head lights work perfect, turn the key, click. and nothing..

hanman

Ok, but when you turn the key on, do the lights dim or do nothing?
If nothing, it is your starter. With the smoke you are talking about, it may have fried.

rootbeerdragon

simple as this.... your coolent seal broke