1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

cant get 3rd member off

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-11-05, 02:46 PM
  #1  
Say hello to Mr.Wankel

Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
dbragg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cartersville, Ga
Posts: 5,962
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
cant get 3rd member off

i went and tried to remove the third member off of my GSLSE parts car and after getting the 8 bolts removed it wont come off. so i was ok. i have a spare rearend out of my 84 that is messed up. so i go to that rearend and remove the bolts and try to remove the third member. when i try to pic it up i end up just holding the whole rearend in the air. do i need to remove the axles first? if so, whats the best way to go about doing so? thanks.
Old 09-11-05, 03:36 PM
  #2  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (3)
 
Re-Speed.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by aws140
i went and tried to remove the third member off of my GSLSE parts car and after getting the 8 bolts removed it wont come off. so i was ok. i have a spare rearend out of my 84 that is messed up. so i go to that rearend and remove the bolts and try to remove the third member. when i try to pic it up i end up just holding the whole rearend in the air. do i need to remove the axles first? if so, whats the best way to go about doing so? thanks.
Axels must come out first. You can rent a axel puller from your local auto parts store, Or you can make one out of a body puller and a piece of flat metal with 3 holes in it.

-billy
Old 09-11-05, 03:56 PM
  #3  
Senior Member

 
tmking66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jonesborough, TN
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Haynes manual does a good job of walking you throught the process of removing the axles. Basically though, remove the wheel, disconnect the brake fluid line, disconnect the e-brake cable, remove the two 14mm bolts that attach the brake calipers, remove the three 12mm nuts that hold the axel to the rearend, attach the slide hammer/puller (you can borrow one from autozone or advance) and pull the axel. Both of them have to come off the get the rearend loose. You should replace a couple of bolts on the 3rd member so it does not fall to the ground and get damaged when the last axel comes out.

Hope this helps.
Old 09-11-05, 05:27 PM
  #4  
Function > Form

 
rotor vs. piston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Catonsville MD (baltimore suburb)
Posts: 10,890
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
your just talking about the pumkin not the whole unit?
Old 09-11-05, 09:06 PM
  #5  
FB+FC=F-ME

 
steve84GS TII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Rohnert Park CA
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Bah,who needs an axle puller?!
Just put the wheel back on,thread 2 opposite wheel lugs in a couple turns and grab that wheel and pop it towards you.A couple good whacks and the axle should come right out.Just be sure you have all the backing plate bolts out and be prepared for a little oil....

BTW,a steel or spare wheel works better than aluminum since its thinner and gives you more "slap" area on the lug bolt/stud.
Old 09-12-05, 11:55 AM
  #6  
Tennis, anyone

 
MarkPerez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SoCal.
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Of coarse the axles have to be pulled first, and all brake hardware. try not to mix up the axles your going to re-install, keep the right axle on the right side and left on the left side.
Old 09-12-05, 12:36 PM
  #7  
Full Member

 
mjg80918's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chester
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Exclamation

Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Bah,who needs an axle puller?!
Just put the wheel back on,thread 2 opposite wheel lugs in a couple turns and grab that wheel and pop it towards you.A couple good whacks and the axle should come right out.Just be sure you have all the backing plate bolts out and be prepared for a little oil....

BTW,a steel or spare wheel works better than aluminum since its thinner and gives you more "slap" area on the lug bolt/stud.
haha this is one ghetto ****! thats the best idea i have heard allday. lol. nice job man. hahaha.
Old 09-12-05, 03:32 PM
  #8  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
mikey D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 848
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Steve i have an even easier way.

hammer out a wheel stud and stick a slide hammer thru the hole and whack away..
Old 09-12-05, 03:37 PM
  #9  
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd

 
Hades12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Union Mills NC
Posts: 4,094
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
BFH and a couple of whacks have brought all of mine out.
Old 09-12-05, 07:27 PM
  #10  
Wassup!!

 
Rotor13B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Longmont Co.
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Hades12
BFH and a couple of whacks have brought all of mine out.
Yep, A four lb. mallet does wonders.
Old 09-12-05, 07:40 PM
  #11  
Full Member

 
gsl-se85fb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Orlando Fl.
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I went the way of the spare tire didnt take much force at all
Old 09-12-05, 07:46 PM
  #12  
root

 
zyounker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Try stroking it gently.... :P





Slide hamer from autozone does wonders and is free.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:01 AM.