As some of you know, I´ve been trying to get my seven on the road for 3 years now.

Down here in my country getting parts is almost imposible, BUT... the other day a guy told me "hey I lend my FD to my brother and he tottaled it. I can sell you the engine"

So far great

Down here, I gotta have the engine number of the original engine registrated with the car, and that number, is on the front iron

So, is it posible to use the front iron of my 12a IF I machine down the oring groove on it?

I don´t have a 13b-rew iron to compare, but here is a pic of mine

oh, and would the 12a tranny bolt to the 13b-rew rear iron?

Not sure what happens with the OMP, etc....

any info will be appreciated

Thanks in advance!

 

Seems like a lot of hassle when you could just use a number punch, and put those matching numbers on the FD iron; I've never seen any numbers on the late model parts either. Only one I have seen with a number on it was the twin dizzy 12a I tore apart last fall.

 

Hi Nismo, thanks for your reply. I know it´s a hassle, but down here you can´t punch the numbers, it´s not legal.

All cars that came to my country came with chassis and engine numbers

 

Well, using 3/4 of a different engine isn't exactly legal I'm sure either, if your engine is scrap because it seized, or it had a massive engine failure the whole car gets scrapped? You can't get a replacement engine? How would a dealer get away with this?

 

In a piston engine car, you have to buy a new engine block from the factory through a dealership, take all the purchase papers to the national registry and they will enter the new engine block number on the cars paperwork

Otherwise if you get stopped by the police, the car will be impounded and you prosecuted

 

...Thusly noted, your country is not nice *Hides his vehicals, all previous total loses, from Argentina

 

not sure why the pic never showed up

 

Here is what you should do. First, I'm sorry but you shouldn't attempt your current idea. Second, locate some GSL-SE or older rotor housings. Third, transfer the FD rotating assembly into this newly created 4 port 13B. Forth, find out how legal it is to use an aftermarket carb and intake manifold compared to a stock intake. You can either A: purchase a Racing Beat intake manifold and get their Holley of appropriate size for your ports or like others here have recently done, get an Edlebrock or B: have an adaptor plate machined to allow your stock manifold to fit the 13B and do some mods to the Nikki so it will perform on the slightly larger engine. The OMP will not be a problem as you can plumb it into the rotor housings if they're the GSL-SE type. If not, they can flow into the carb pretty easily regardless of which you choose.

The good thing about my idea is you can retain your 12A side plates so the numbers match and get the benefit of a 13B without the hassle of trying to machine something that frankly nobody I know would even attempt. I certainly wouldn't bother when I know coolant seals in the irons was a bad idea from the beginning. Mazda moved them back to the rotor housings for the Renesis you know.

 

Thanks a lot for your reply Jeff.

Down here we do not have emissions control, and basicaly you can use any exhaust and intake. A lot of people takes the EFI out of their cars and go back to carbs.


The GSL-SE rotor housings its a very good idea. After tearing the 13b up I will check how the rotor housings are and try to trade them with someone

A few questions:

a- its the fitting for the ECU controlled OMP of the FD the same as the 12a? Meaning: could I use the ECU controlled one on the 12a iron?

b- to keep the rotating FD assembly balanced I would have to use the FD flywheel right? So........ the 12a tranny starter wont fit anymore. How can I work this out without changing the tranny? (no FD or FC trannys down here). I know my clutch is 215 and the FD is 225mm.

c- is the FD front iron also about 40mm wide? I´m gonna have to measure end play very very well.

My head hurts....

 

Easy solution is to use a series 5 NA FC flywheel. and your 12a starter and tranny will bolt right up.

 

Thanks Hyper, its very good info!

just one question: S5 NA flywheel and counterweight? or I can use the FD counterweight?

 

You can use the S5 N/A flywheel with the FD front counterweight and the FD rotors. It'll balance fine.

 

Also, to answer your earlier question about the oil metering pump. You don't want to try to use the ECU controlled pump from the FD engine. I would use the 12a OMP and just run 2 oil lines.

 

One thing to note about the NA FC flywheel is the clutch and pressure plate size. They are 225mm like all '83-'92 NA engines. Yours is 215mm as you mentioned. You will need to pick up a new 225mm clutch disc and pressure plate. You could do OEM replacement, streetstrip, or puck style. It depends on how much power your pushing.

Yes, use the 12A OMP. Dont bother with the ECU controlled stuff.

C: Since you will be using 13B rotors you will need to install the FD stationary gears as well. They are 5mm longer.

Also the end play will be correct if you keep the thrust assembly complete. Don't swap needle bearings, thrust plate, thrust spacer etc. Use the FD assembly because it is beefier (Stronger). As long as you don't lose or replace anything, the end play will be correct. It has nothing at all to do with front plate thickness.

 

So far guys you deserve an A+

 

As long as it's not a plus one.

 

Jeff, guys... thanks a lot.

I´m really excited with the idea of having my first gen on the road