A/C Pulley Removal Question
01-31-16 | 07:55 PM
#1
A/C Pulley Removal Question
I apologize if this has already been asked, or if it's general knowledge, but I've searched and could not find much of anything. The A/C in my car doesn't work. It's likely just in need of being re-charged. However, I never use A/C much (even in the Summer), and I'm thinking I might as well just remove it, for the weight savings and to simplify the engine bay. And honestly having a 30-year old canister of toxic compressed gas in my engine bay doesn't make me feel too warm and fuzzy anyways.
However, I've heard that people have had engine problems after removing it due to uneven tension on the main pulley. Is there any truth in this? Did the cars that were not optioned with A/C have a different pulley setup? If I'm going to run into reliability / engine problems (or even risk them) after removing the A/C, I'd just assume leave it in place. Reliability is way more important to me than performance. I still have emissions in place (if it makes a difference), and don't plan on removing those.
However, I've heard that people have had engine problems after removing it due to uneven tension on the main pulley. Is there any truth in this? Did the cars that were not optioned with A/C have a different pulley setup? If I'm going to run into reliability / engine problems (or even risk them) after removing the A/C, I'd just assume leave it in place. Reliability is way more important to me than performance. I still have emissions in place (if it makes a difference), and don't plan on removing those.
01-31-16 | 09:48 PM
#2
If the AC needs to be recharged, then you don't need to worry about "toxic gas." Removing the AC belt has no effect on uneven pulley tension. Actually, from main pulley perspective, it's best not to have the AC belt. You can just remove the AC belt, problem solved.
Now the belt tension comes in to play on the water pump. Removing the air pump belt reduces the water pump pulley tension and causes the water pump to slip at high RPM.
Now the belt tension comes in to play on the water pump. Removing the air pump belt reduces the water pump pulley tension and causes the water pump to slip at high RPM.
01-31-16 | 10:11 PM
#3
Thanks for the response.
So what I read about problems with pulley tension and A/C removal were probably not true then? I'm kind of split with whether I should fix it or not. I really don't think I'll ever use it, so if I do end up getting rid of it, I'll probably just give it to a member, I'd rather someone have it who will enjoy it than throw it out.
Out of curiosity, what do those do who remove the air-pump with regards to the pulleys? Move over to one of the pulleys sold by RB or whoever else? No plans on removing the air pump (I need to pass emissions), but still curious.
So what I read about problems with pulley tension and A/C removal were probably not true then? I'm kind of split with whether I should fix it or not. I really don't think I'll ever use it, so if I do end up getting rid of it, I'll probably just give it to a member, I'd rather someone have it who will enjoy it than throw it out.
Out of curiosity, what do those do who remove the air-pump with regards to the pulleys? Move over to one of the pulleys sold by RB or whoever else? No plans on removing the air pump (I need to pass emissions), but still curious.
02-02-16 | 01:18 AM
#5
Okay, that makes sense, I looked up a picture of it, and I can see that now.
Can anyone who has removed their A/C share any positive / negative experiences of doing this? Not so much looking for how to do it, it looks pretty simple, just wondering if those who have removed it later ended up regretting it. Is there any downside (aside from not having A/C of course)?
I really am a purist about the RX-7 and don't want to change a whole lot, but I don't see a whole lot of utility for me personally keeping the A/C around.
Can anyone who has removed their A/C share any positive / negative experiences of doing this? Not so much looking for how to do it, it looks pretty simple, just wondering if those who have removed it later ended up regretting it. Is there any downside (aside from not having A/C of course)?
I really am a purist about the RX-7 and don't want to change a whole lot, but I don't see a whole lot of utility for me personally keeping the A/C around.
02-02-16 | 11:50 PM
#7
Is it recommended to remove the A/C pulley or just leave it alone?
Trending Topics
02-04-16 | 11:49 PM
#9
I was wondering with removing these components if it's safe to remove the A/C pulley as well. I didn't know if it would throw off the balance of the engine or not. That would be disastrous, certainly I don't want to screw up my engine for no reason. I'd like to get many miles out of this engine
02-05-16 | 11:16 AM
#10
OK - I understand now. Yes, you can remove the big double sheave pulley on the engine that is used for AC/PS without issue.
Whatever you do, DO NOT TOUCH the big eccentric shaft bolt. Just remove the four 10mm bolt that hold the big AC pulley on.
Whatever you do, DO NOT TOUCH the big eccentric shaft bolt. Just remove the four 10mm bolt that hold the big AC pulley on.
02-07-16 | 01:32 AM
#11
I've read that horrible things can happen if you touch the eccentric shaft bolt, I guess it's mostly regarding the needle bearing unseating and screwing everything up?
02-07-16 | 12:56 PM
#12
1. Find the timing marks on the inner pulley and spin the engine till the leading mark lines up with the indicator pin. Now would be a goof time to put a little paint mark on the pulley leading mark if it is missing. DO NOT remove this pulley until it is marked.
2. You will probably need to remove the fan pulley extension piece to get the big lower pulley off.
3. Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the two bigger pulleys to the eccentric shaft hub.
4. Remove the big pulley taking care not to remove the inner pulley.
5. Put every thin g back together.
2. You will probably need to remove the fan pulley extension piece to get the big lower pulley off.
3. Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the two bigger pulleys to the eccentric shaft hub.
4. Remove the big pulley taking care not to remove the inner pulley.
5. Put every thin g back together.
02-07-16 | 04:34 PM
#13
1. Find the timing marks on the inner pulley and spin the engine till the leading mark lines up with the indicator pin. Now would be a goof time to put a little paint mark on the pulley leading mark if it is missing. DO NOT remove this pulley until it is marked.
2. You will probably need to remove the fan pulley extension piece to get the big lower pulley off.
3. Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the two bigger pulleys to the eccentric shaft hub.
4. Remove the big pulley taking care not to remove the inner pulley.
5. Put every thin g back together.
2. You will probably need to remove the fan pulley extension piece to get the big lower pulley off.
3. Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the two bigger pulleys to the eccentric shaft hub.
4. Remove the big pulley taking care not to remove the inner pulley.
5. Put every thin g back together.
And in step 2 you said not to remove the inner pulley, how would you do that? My understanding is that the four bolts on the outer pulley are only holding the outer pulley, and the inner pulley is being held by the big main bolt. What am I missing here?
Step 3, you said put everything back together, what would I be putting back together since I'm removing the outer pulley, just the fan extension if I have to remove that?
PS. I don't know if that's your engine or not, but if it is, where did you get all that silicone tubing, that looks pretty sharp and better than the stock rotting rubber pieces.
02-08-16 | 12:56 PM
#14
See answers inline.
Thanks so much for the response. Just to make sure that I'm not missing anything, with regards to step 1, how do you move the engine, just move the main pulley with your hands?
<b>Just spin the pulley by hand or use the belt.</b>
And in step 2 you said not to remove the inner pulley, how would you do that? My understanding is that the four bolts on the outer pulley are only holding the outer pulley, and the inner pulley is being held by the big main bolt. What am I missing here?
<b>The big bolt only holds the eccentric shaft hub, both large and smaller lower pulleys bolt to the hub using the four 10mm bolts. If you're real careful, the inner pulley will stay on the hub but look for the white/yellow paint on the pulley for the timing marks. I powder coated my pulleys. I used a triangle file to ensure I had a good timing mark. Can't stress the fact of not removing the pulley without it being lined up. I also like to put a little paint mark on the hub to indicate orientation with one bolt hole. I also got lucky because my pulley/hub have the old style rivet hole and I use that for alignment. </b>
Watch this video. It's a 13b and pulley's are a little different but the concept is the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldofcCmi4uI
Step 3, you said put everything back together, what would I be putting back together since I'm removing the outer pulley, just the fan extension if I have to remove that?
<b>The four pulley bolts. There was a new RX-7 owner that removed the AC pulley but forgot to install the four bolts and wondered why his main pulley wobbled.</b>
PS. I don't know if that's your engine or not, but if it is, where did you get all that silicone tubing, that looks pretty sharp and better than the stock rotting rubber pieces.
<b>Got the hose off eBay. I'm not fond of the red after I did it. I'm going to switch colors</b>
<b>Just spin the pulley by hand or use the belt.</b>
And in step 2 you said not to remove the inner pulley, how would you do that? My understanding is that the four bolts on the outer pulley are only holding the outer pulley, and the inner pulley is being held by the big main bolt. What am I missing here?
<b>The big bolt only holds the eccentric shaft hub, both large and smaller lower pulleys bolt to the hub using the four 10mm bolts. If you're real careful, the inner pulley will stay on the hub but look for the white/yellow paint on the pulley for the timing marks. I powder coated my pulleys. I used a triangle file to ensure I had a good timing mark. Can't stress the fact of not removing the pulley without it being lined up. I also like to put a little paint mark on the hub to indicate orientation with one bolt hole. I also got lucky because my pulley/hub have the old style rivet hole and I use that for alignment. </b>
Watch this video. It's a 13b and pulley's are a little different but the concept is the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldofcCmi4uI
Step 3, you said put everything back together, what would I be putting back together since I'm removing the outer pulley, just the fan extension if I have to remove that?
<b>The four pulley bolts. There was a new RX-7 owner that removed the AC pulley but forgot to install the four bolts and wondered why his main pulley wobbled.</b>
PS. I don't know if that's your engine or not, but if it is, where did you get all that silicone tubing, that looks pretty sharp and better than the stock rotting rubber pieces.
<b>Got the hose off eBay. I'm not fond of the red after I did it. I'm going to switch colors</b>
02-08-16 | 11:19 PM
#15
Okay, thanks for the video. That helps me understand. For whatever reason, I thought that the main eccentric shaft bolt was holding the main pulley on. So I guess as long as I don't touch that bolt I can't really hurt anything?
What's the reason for making sure the timing marks line up? Aren't these just used for setting the ignition timing, or is there some other reason why this matters? What will it hurt if they're not lined up?
Are there any problems I should check for after doing this? I assume just as long as the belts have proper tension and everything is running okay that's it?
Thanks so much for the help.
What's the reason for making sure the timing marks line up? Aren't these just used for setting the ignition timing, or is there some other reason why this matters? What will it hurt if they're not lined up?
Are there any problems I should check for after doing this? I assume just as long as the belts have proper tension and everything is running okay that's it?
Thanks so much for the help.
02-09-16 | 08:56 AM
#16
On some year engines there is no index on the pulley to make sure its aligned correctly on the
shaft. Since it has the timing marks on it, that can mean there are 3 wrong ways to orient that
pulley on the shaft. So lining things up give you that reference to make sure you put the pulley
back on the one correct way.
shaft. Since it has the timing marks on it, that can mean there are 3 wrong ways to orient that
pulley on the shaft. So lining things up give you that reference to make sure you put the pulley
back on the one correct way.
02-10-16 | 10:14 PM
#17
On some year engines there is no index on the pulley to make sure its aligned correctly on the
shaft. Since it has the timing marks on it, that can mean there are 3 wrong ways to orient that
pulley on the shaft. So lining things up give you that reference to make sure you put the pulley
back on the one correct way.
shaft. Since it has the timing marks on it, that can mean there are 3 wrong ways to orient that
pulley on the shaft. So lining things up give you that reference to make sure you put the pulley
back on the one correct way.
02-11-16 | 08:10 AM
#18
02-11-16 | 11:56 PM
#19
Ah okay, that makes sense. That's for the responses everyone. I dunno where I got the idea that removing the pulley would throw off the engine balance, I saw it somewhere, but oh well. I guess I'll end up doing this once I have time to take the car to a shop to make sure the freon is properly evacuated.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sethicus
New Member RX-7 Technical
3
01-26-16 11:41 PM