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Buying a carb (searched)

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Old 04-09-13 | 11:27 AM
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Buying a carb (searched)

Hey guys I've decided I'm gonna buy a carb and just drive my FB I don't have the rest of the money to finish the TII swap. So I'm looking for exactly what carb I need and all the numbers of jets etc.

Engine: S5 TII Rotors (9.0:1), S4 TII Irons, all other internals s4 TII.
Porting: Massive streetport (centre iron matched to front and rear), Pineapple ep26 exhaust porting.

I'm looking at Weber sidedrafts, that's what I want. I'm looking at either a 48 dcoe or 50 dcoe. I want a choke because Canada lol..no winter driving but I may need to move it periodically in very cold temps. Again specs are above, thanks in advance guys.
Old 04-10-13 | 08:51 AM
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I was told a 48 minimum is what I need but can I get away with a 45? I mean its only 9.0:1 compression.
Old 04-10-13 | 09:25 AM
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you need at least a 48mm carb, but the only weber that has a choke is a 45mm
Old 04-10-13 | 09:29 AM
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Is a 48 required because of the porting? Why can't I use a 45?
Old 04-10-13 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MazdaMike02
Is a 48 required because of the porting? Why can't I use a 45?
the 45mm wont flow enough air above 6,000 rpm's to feed a streetport.. the car will run fine with a 45, your peak power will be low, thats all
Old 04-10-13 | 10:36 AM
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Expand your search to include Dell'Ortos which are like Webers but improved in a few key ways. You might also look for Mikunis too, the Japanese version of Webers. I would say the choke isn't really necessary, but that's up to you.

You'll want a 48 if you want to make any sort of power. 45 might do better gas mileage though.
Old 04-10-13 | 07:56 PM
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Yeah ive been searching like crazy, I really want a side draft..havent really found many Weber or Dellorto 48s used. Theyre damn expensive brand new too. I did find a Dellorto DHLA 48 on ebay but its a reman that was originally a 45 bored out to a 48..and they want 400 bucks for it.
I will expand my search for Mikuni carbs as well maybe I can find one. Yeah I guess I dont really need a choke.

Thanks for the advice guys.
Old 04-10-13 | 08:24 PM
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Don't forget to look on the classifieds here and on craigslist. I found mine here.
Old 04-11-13 | 12:52 AM
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Get a used standalone and just go n/a with your TII intake and throttle body

Or use a racingbeat 4bbl intake and Holley, edelbrock or msd easy efi

Either way has u closer to being boost ready
Old 04-12-13 | 06:32 AM
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Want a weber? I got a 45DCOE and one piece side draft racing beat intake. Has the OMP rod and all. I got sick of trying to tune it. $350 + shipping and consider it sold. It ran way RICH on my 12a Stockport.
Old 04-12-13 | 08:15 AM
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I would but 45 is too small for my application.
Old 04-12-13 | 10:23 PM
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Driven a turbo FB lately?
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It's got 40mm chokes. Lol run pretty damn Rich. Couldn't see it not supplying enough for anything but a large bridge or PP
Old 04-13-13 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 84stock
Get a used standalone and just go n/a with your TII intake and throttle body

Or use a racingbeat 4bbl intake and Holley, edelbrock or msd easy efi

Either way has u closer to being boost ready
Can't afford a standalone right now. I think I'm gonna go with RB Holley manifold and Edelbrock 1405. Found one used locally for 80. I can't justify spending way more for a sidedraft or IDA.
Old 04-13-13 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE-P-28
It's got 40mm chokes. Lol run pretty damn Rich. Couldn't see it not supplying enough for anything but a large bridge or PP
Really? People above say that a 45 won't flow enough air for my streetport.
Old 04-13-13 | 01:44 PM
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After buying a carb and manifold to fit it, you probably could have gone megasquirt and used stock manifolds. If you are dead set on a carb then I would look for a used one in the classifieds, no one will be able to give you a good jet/emulsion tube/air bleed set up because every motor is different.

Isaac
Old 04-13-13 | 08:12 PM
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I priced out megasquirt already and unless I can get a really good deal on a used one i cant afford it right now. I just wanna drive the car but honestly if you guys thing efi NA is cheaper ill do more research.
Old 04-13-13 | 09:53 PM
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Ms1 pcb3.0- $207

MegaSquirt-I Programmable EFI System PCB3.0 - Kit w/ BLACK CASE DIYAutoTune.com

Mtx-l wideband O2- $199

Innovate MTX-L gauge - sensor - controller - 3844 DIYAutoTune.com

Wiring harness, connectors -$75 or so

Gsl-se fuel pump, or Ebay FC pump for $20

Stock manifolds, injectors, coils


What was your budget for a carb/manifold setup?


Isaac
(I built my entire megasquirt setup including 1000cc inj, all new 3/8 fuel lines, FPR, and enough AN fittings to plumb an aircraft carrier for less than $1000)
Old 04-14-13 | 06:59 PM
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I dont want to build my own megasquirt. I dont want to solder for hours. And what about all the other sensors and connectors and wiring ill need. Plus why would I want to use a MS1 when im going TII?

Budget carb setup:
Used Edelbrock 1405, $80 or $100
RB Holley Manifold: $350
Cable Bracket: $25
Choke cable bracket: $20
Choke Cable: $20
Fuel Line: $40
Mallory Return Regulator: $40 used
Old 04-14-13 | 07:53 PM
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Megasquirt will use all the stock mazda sensors just fine, and an MS1 is more than capable of anything you could ever want to do with a TII. Not wanting to build it is a stumbling block, although if you do build it you would learn a hell of a lot doing it. Budget wise it sounds like either way is fairly comparable. The upside to a MS is you are heading in the right direction with wiring and mods for an easy turbo setup, the benefit to the carb setup is that you can probably sell it once you upgrade.

Isaac
Old 04-15-13 | 12:55 AM
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For the record, my complete carb setup was less than $600, and I couldn't be happier. Of course my engine is a stock port so there is a lot of documented setups and tuning floating around, which makes it much easier.
Old 04-15-13 | 11:22 AM
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Your right flight_of_pain an EFI setup would definitely get me closer to my TII swap..I'm so damn indecisive though. Originally I wanted a Haltech because of the support and the fact that one of my good friends an RX7 guy lives close to me so we could help each other tune and I can get my info from him. But then I priced out a Megasquirt v3 thats setup for a rotary already..its almost the same price as a Haltech. But the way I figure it is I'm not selling this car any time soon, although I do want an FD some day..so I figured hang onto the carb setup in case I wanna convert it back when I get an FD. And part out the turbo stuff and use the standalone I buy in the FD.
Old 04-15-13 | 02:32 PM
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I think first gens are just about perfect with 180-200bhp (150-175whp) which is attainable with stock ports and good flowing intake/exhaust (on a 13b). First gens, to me, are about balance and agility, not huge power. I think it's best to save the turbo stuff for either a second or third gen car because they have better suspension, and more importantly, better steering. Just my opinion.
Old 04-15-13 | 03:05 PM
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I have a CP Racing rack and pinion kit, full suspension swap, Re speed big brake kit etc already. I was just pricing out standalones..Megasquirt v3 with expansion is gonna cost me about 1000 installed, Haltech Sprint Re probably 1200 installed and PS1000 will easily cost 1500 or more.

I have found some used standalones..only e6ks I don't want to run something so old that I intend to keep for awhile. There's certain features of the newer ecus (ms3x and ps 1000) that I want for this car and future projects.. I think ill just carb it and drive it and if I still wanna turbo swap it I will.
Old 04-15-13 | 04:30 PM
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There's always draw-through turbo setups.
Old 04-15-13 | 07:59 PM
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yeah I was thinkin about that too havent done any research on it, I'm gonna look into it.



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