OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

So tonight I went out for a good hard run in my 7. Found an amazing road about 10 minutes from my house. One of those roads that if I knew it better it would make my ******* pucker up and go "holy ****". I ran down it kind of quick, and came back slower because there are alot more blind crests on the way back. My brakes heated up considerably, because I could smell the pads. After I got done running the two passes, I decided to call it a night because I didn't want to push my luck of having the cops called on me for tearing up and down this streach of road. I drove back 8 of the 10 miles, and only stood on the brakes once to see how they were holding up. From 60 they grabbed hard, she tracked nice and straight, and there was no lockup until just before I stopped. I turned down the road that my subdivision is off of, got her up to speed, and then had to slow down from a 45 zone to a 35 zone (i was doing 55, went to drop it to 40). I hit my brakes hard to see if the runs down the road had any ill effect on the braking performance of my car, and she scared the hell out of me.

I hit the brakes, and she immiedately dropped the front right corner, dug in hard with the right front wheel, lifted the left front wheel, and pitched the rear end hard right. Luckily I caught it before there was a catastrophe, straightened her out, and kept on going to my subdivision, albeit at a slower pace. Just before my sub, I took her up to 60 (it had changed back to a 45 zone at this point), and stood on the brakes, anticipating the screwey braking. The right front dug in, but this time the rear end didn't step out, and the left front didn't lift all too much. My question is: What could be causing this? Here are my suspension/brake mods:

stock rotors (had to replace the left front last summer because of a sheared stud, left the right front alone and didn't change the pads on the left front)
SS lines
RB springs at all 4 corners
stock shocks
new master cylinder

GavinJuice

bleed your front brakes, also if your using something like a ceramic pad on the FR and an organic on the FL there is going to be a considerable amount of difference when the pads heat up. The ceramic will grab much harder.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

could an air bubble in one line be the cause of this? wow, i never realized how important bleeding the brakes was

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Like it or not, brakes should be bleed annually. Track cars are often bleed for every race. Brake work should be done in matched pairs f/r, whether it be pads, rotors or calipers. This helps keep the system balanced.

I know eveyone seems to want to mod this or that, but brakes are the 1st system in any car that needs to be brought to spec. Not pointing fingers, just friendly advice for the masses.

Kentetsu

Take a quick look at them to make sure that you didn't loose a bearing seal. Not sure if this will happen on the front, but I lost mine on the rear and my brake drum is now full of grease... Otherwise, old brake fluid or cheap pads could cause all kinds of problems for you.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

i'll pull it apart this weekend when I have time and check what's up with all of it. I'll probably be looking into new brakes sometime soon. What kinds of pads have you guys had decent luck with for back road driving?