Brake Booster Question
#1
Brake Booster Question
When I restore stuff I like to disassemble it as much as possible. This makes it easier to clean the item, and also makes it easier to paint it or plate it or whatever. I read in a thread from a couple of years ago that it's not recommended to take the brake booster apart without special tools or equipment. Is that true?
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks,
Rich
#4
Chad Carson
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When I restore stuff I like to disassemble it as much as possible. This makes it easier to clean the item, and also makes it easier to paint it or plate it or whatever. I read in a thread from a couple of years ago that it's not recommended to take the brake booster apart without special tools or equipment. Is that true?
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks,
Rich
Rich, try it and then if it dont work just buy a complete new one. I bought a new one for my SA for under 100.
#6
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Rich,
Wow. That CPU is beautiful. What'd you do, shine it up with paint thinner? And, where in the world was that CPU kept for it to get that bad?
+1 on the booster. They shouldn't be that expensive. And, whatever you do, keep us posted!
Wow. That CPU is beautiful. What'd you do, shine it up with paint thinner? And, where in the world was that CPU kept for it to get that bad?
+1 on the booster. They shouldn't be that expensive. And, whatever you do, keep us posted!
Last edited by 85 FB; 01-07-08 at 08:58 PM.
#7
The ECU is under a panel at the front of the passenger's footwell. The panel that covers it was too badly rusted...the lower mounting tabs were completely rusted away. So I swiped the one out of my parts car and cleaned it up and painted it as well.
Just an FYI...I've seen a lot of people use the term ECU to refer to the computer...but in the factory wiring diagram ECU means Emmisions Control Unit, and the computer is called the CPU.
Rich
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#12
I figured I'd put a period on this thread about the brake booster. What I ended up doing was removing the rubber boot from the side that the brake pedal attaches to, and the plunger from the side that engages the master cylinder. Then I used a stripping attachment chucked into my drill to completely remove the paint from the side that faces forward, and used a Scotchbrite to scuff up the back side. After masking off the opening in the front and the one in the rear I shot it with a self-etching primer, then top-coated with Krylon satin black. It came out looking really nice...I hope it holds up.
Rich
Rich
#13
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Nice job Rich. Personally, I'm not a fan of Krylon or most rattle can paints. That's why I have paint guns and in particular a cheap 50 buck touch up gun to shoot epoxy and automotive paint. Lasts so much longer than the rattle cans and I hate redoing done work.
#14
Savanna Rx-7
Rich and Scott, the only two guys I now that are as annaly retenative when working on something as myself
Well at least I am sitting in good company
Rich good work on the resto parts, sand blasters are a lot of fun are they not?
Scott, waiting on photos...... if you forgot I will pm you my email addy later.
Cheers
Kenn
Well at least I am sitting in good company
Rich good work on the resto parts, sand blasters are a lot of fun are they not?
Scott, waiting on photos...... if you forgot I will pm you my email addy later.
Cheers
Kenn
#17
Rich
#18
Rich and Scott, the only two guys I now that are as annaly retenative when working on something as myself
Well at least I am sitting in good company
Rich good work on the resto parts, sand blasters are a lot of fun are they not?
Scott, waiting on photos...... if you forgot I will pm you my email addy later.
Cheers
Kenn
Well at least I am sitting in good company
Rich good work on the resto parts, sand blasters are a lot of fun are they not?
Scott, waiting on photos...... if you forgot I will pm you my email addy later.
Cheers
Kenn
Rich
#19
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Hey Rich - FWIW now, the booster DOES come apart - you probably saw the way the 2 halves are twist-interlocked? The FSM details disassembly I believe - there is a BIG *** Spring inside, which makes taking it apart probably a bit dangerous w/o the right tools. THEN you have the fun of trying to re-compress the spring to re-assemble too! -and thats with OUT scratching the paint all up...
;p
Had mine out when installing new (and now, apparently, defective!) brake MC - painted with POR in hopes of greater Br fluid resistance...
Nice job-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
;p
Had mine out when installing new (and now, apparently, defective!) brake MC - painted with POR in hopes of greater Br fluid resistance...
Nice job-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#20
Hey Rich - FWIW now, the booster DOES come apart - you probably saw the way the 2 halves are twist-interlocked? The FSM details disassembly I believe - there is a BIG *** Spring inside, which makes taking it apart probably a bit dangerous w/o the right tools. THEN you have the fun of trying to re-compress the spring to re-assemble too! -and thats with OUT scratching the paint all up...
;p
Had mine out when installing new (and now, apparently, defective!) brake MC - painted with POR in hopes of greater Br fluid resistance...
Nice job-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
;p
Had mine out when installing new (and now, apparently, defective!) brake MC - painted with POR in hopes of greater Br fluid resistance...
Nice job-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Rich
#21
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Rich, I have 3 different guns, one of which is a cheap 50 buck touch up gun for small parts. I've found in the long run that using automotive grade paint really pays off as some of the rattle can paints have begun failing within 12 months, then I have to start over with the removal, sandblasting, priming, painting and install. Not worth it imho.
You can buy a qt of primer and topcoat and paint a lot more parts than the rattle cans will cover for about the same price. I like to use an epoxy primer/sealer, but it has a tendency to permantly clog a spray gun if you don't clean it right away, sometimes between each refill. Overspray isn't much of an issue, about the same as the rattle cans until you use a full sized gun and start painting bodies.
You can buy a qt of primer and topcoat and paint a lot more parts than the rattle cans will cover for about the same price. I like to use an epoxy primer/sealer, but it has a tendency to permantly clog a spray gun if you don't clean it right away, sometimes between each refill. Overspray isn't much of an issue, about the same as the rattle cans until you use a full sized gun and start painting bodies.
#22
Rich, I have 3 different guns, one of which is a cheap 50 buck touch up gun for small parts. I've found in the long run that using automotive grade paint really pays off as some of the rattle can paints have begun failing within 12 months, then I have to start over with the removal, sandblasting, priming, painting and install. Not worth it imho.
You can buy a qt of primer and topcoat and paint a lot more parts than the rattle cans will cover for about the same price. I like to use an epoxy primer/sealer, but it has a tendency to permantly clog a spray gun if you don't clean it right away, sometimes between each refill. Overspray isn't much of an issue, about the same as the rattle cans until you use a full sized gun and start painting bodies.
You can buy a qt of primer and topcoat and paint a lot more parts than the rattle cans will cover for about the same price. I like to use an epoxy primer/sealer, but it has a tendency to permantly clog a spray gun if you don't clean it right away, sometimes between each refill. Overspray isn't much of an issue, about the same as the rattle cans until you use a full sized gun and start painting bodies.
Rich
#23
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
awesome attention to detail here, 10++
i wouldnt reccomend for anybody to dis assemble the brake booster, if you mess up, you will wate alot of time doing the R&R twice..
i wouldnt reccomend for anybody to dis assemble the brake booster, if you mess up, you will wate alot of time doing the R&R twice..
#24
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Rich, fwiw, I also opt to powdercoat many of the smaller parts instead of paint. If it can take the heat and fit in the oven, powdercoat it. As a side note on spraying, if you use a clearcoat that contains isocyanate, which most of them do, a resperator is a must. It will cause brain damage.
#25
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Thanks Stu - Yea, I saw how the halves are put together, and the spring inside. Decided it wasn't work messing with. That's a great idea about using POR on the master cylinder. Did you take the reservoir off? If so, how? I've always damaged them when I try to pry them off.
Rich
Rich
I just masked off the cylinder, POR'd that AND the Booster (as 2 separate pieces)-
"should" be more Br Fluid resistant, but hope not to test the theory
Also POR'd the steering gearbox while all this was out too, so it all looks pretty Minty...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska