Also remember as you change petal ratio petal travel also changes

 

No. The rod that attaches to the pedal is part of the master. The booster is just a big VACUUM CYLINDER, there are no rods comming from it, thats the master. You obviously have no clue how a booster or master works. And I'm not going to argue over lengths of brake lines, if you've done them before then you should know thats not hard at all.

 

Thanks for all the input!
Vin

 

When is the last time you had the master cylinder and booster off an FB in your hands? If I had pics I would show you, the booster has all the rods and linkages on it. the master cylinder has none of them. I know brake lines are not that hard to do as I've said I have made dozens, I'm just bringing it up as another thing to think about.
Seriously, go take a look at the booster and master off a First gen, you will see what I'm talking about.... I only work on FB's, so I can't comment on what those parts look like on other cars. Don't tell me I don't have a clue about FB's, its all I do...

 

Ok take a look at these two links, shows a pic of the front of the booster with the pushrod sticking out, and the back of the master cylinder which has no linkage or rod of any kind....
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1210484125
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1210484125

 

^ He is correct. The master cylinder has no rods/linkages. The rod from the booster goes into the back of the MC. The MC looks like this for our cars:



and the booster looks like this:



Anyway, that really isn't the point. You could eliminate the booster with a little work, but I don't know why you would want to. If you want to see how it would feel, remove the vac line to the booster and cap the nipple at the manifold. Now drive the car in an empty parking lot. This is how it would feel with no booster at all. I'm sure you might be able to find a different MC that might be able to work, but you are on your own there. There are no direct bolt-on MCs for this application that I know of...but, if you are needing to redo brakelines and linkages anyway, you could really make just about any MC work.

 

Thank you gsl-se addict!

 

I never asked how to use the power assisted master cylinder with out the power assist but...

The pictures prove FlyinFinn is right; if you remove booster, and bolt the master cylinder to the firewall, the pedal assembly will act directly on the master cylinder.

 

Except there is no rod to connect the pedal to the master cylinder, its built into the booster....

BTW sorry to jack your thread as we apparently have... The answer to your question simply is No, there is no bolt in non power master cylinder for the FB, you would just need to find one that is the correct size and adapt it to work...

 

You have been a member for a whole 2 months and you are telling a Senior member of 6 years that he does not have a clue as to what design a FB has?

You are not working on a BMW here.

 

I'm really glad you "jacked the thread", I gave up on the Booster Begone as soon as I found out that there wasn't an off the shelf solution.

But doesn't the "male" end of the booster look like it would fit perfectly in the "female" end of the booster? If that is the case then what ever goes into the female end of the booster will go into the female end of the master cylinder...

 

You could do it if you wanted, there are other cars that share, or could be "forced" to share parts with an FB. Do FC 4-pot calipers and rear brakes (ReSpeed), calculate the size needed for a proper sized MC, and source another linkage rod from a car in a junkyard... Or find a way to remove the stock one from the booster and cut it down/rethread the end so it's shorter, and possibly suspend it in a home made bracket with polyurethane "donut" bushings or something.

 

I have manual brakes, quite a bit of work... but works really well and lots of adjustability.

For me the booster is a bit of an eye sore....

 

Lets all not listen to what gslse-addict says after all he is just a nuclear engineer.

 

Both ends of the booster are "male" so to speak...

Nice setup Jimmy, where did you get the master cylinders?

 

Ya!
That a great looking engine bay.
Vin

 

this thread is dumb....

when mazda put power brakes on their cars, all they did was rotate the master cylinder flange. maybe the pushrod is different, but thats it.

2. my tr3 had disc front, drum rear brakes, with no assist, and it feels so much nicer than a power brake car.

3. the tr3 is manageable because its rear drum, rx7 with 4 discs and no other changes is going to give a really hard pedal

 

Both my masters are Tilton, the race car section seems to swear by them.

Anyhow the smaller the master the less pedal effort. I made that mistake already.

Wilwood has a mastercylinder that has all the work done for you....



http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...TCMC/index.asp

You'll be best off to measure the piston size of your front and rear calipers and talk to the tech support. They will figure out what you need.

But it is expensive!!

 

Wow, that's great...
maybe I won't give up just yet

 

Good luck my friend!! I have learned alot about brakes with my project.

The stoptech website has lots of info aswell.

Post pic's when you are done!

 

jimmy

can you post more pics of your set up? closer up and from the inside. what calipers are you running?

 

A BMW has the same exact setup. Apparently you don't understand what I'm saying. The rod is still part of the Master Cylinder, sure the rod "attached" to the booster but it's part of the Master Cylinder's Assembly. You take it off and bolt it to the firewall with the Master Cylinder and your done. All the booster is doing with the rod is holding it, simple as taking it out and bolting it to firewall, it will then work like it should. Only problem is (like I mentioned beofore) trimming the rod because it will now stick into the cabin further. What does it matter if I've been here 2 months or 10 years? I have lived outside this forum.

 

Okay guys as interesting as this discussion has been, I'm closing the thread before things get too far out of hand.

Thanks to everyone for contributing and Vin good luck on your swap. If Finn is right and the rod can simply be pulled out of the brake booster because it goes all the way through, then you've found your solution - take the rod, cut it to length and bolt to the firewall. If that's not the case, then you'll have to fab something up on your own or find a donor car with the right bits.

If you do end up doing it successfully, I'm sure we'd all love to see a thread with some pictures and words about how you did it Might even be archive material...

Jon