Lotus00

I have 95 PSI on the front rotor and 105 PSI on the rear (the engine was hot, if that makes a difference). The gauge bounced up in even increments, so each rotor face must have close to the same compression. I wasn’t too happy with the results; 85 PSI is the minimum and 120 PSI is optimal, correct? I don’t like being that close to the minimum.

I was about to just pay someone else to rebuild the Miata transmission I have had laying around for 6 months, I kind of wanted to get it in the car (along with a racing beat lightweight steel flywheel and centerforce clutch). My question is should I spend the money on the transmission, and put the engine off until a little later, or should I postpone the transmission and start buying new engine parts.

If and when I have to put in a new engine I would like to go turbo, and I would prefer EFI over carb (it’s an 84 GSL-SE). If I do need a new engine soon, I will probably go with a carb (I will be on a budget... around $1500 a month)

The 2nd gear syncros are going out in the stock transmission, and that’s why I wanted to replace that soon, but if I build a new engine and get it ready to install before my current engine or transmission ***** out it would be easy to put the lightweight flywheel, clutch and transmission on it outside of the car and drop it in as one single unit.

So what do you guys recommend? New transmission then new engine, or new engine then new transmission? I wish I could figure out how to make a poll...

Pele

iTrader: (28)

You're gonna need parts from your stock 1st gen tranny (Mainly housings and shift mechanics...)

You're also gonna need to grind the Miata input shaft down a bit... I think about an inch.

Sorry, I dunno how to judge those compression test numbers to say how long you have to go on that enigne.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Any compression numbers above 90 or so are fine.