The carb I got has numbers 4777-7 on it. I was told its a 650 double pumper. The linkages are alil bent up and I am not sure if they should be replaced. I don't have that good of a camera to take pictures and show it off. Reason why I am going carb is because instead of buying a t2 engine, tranny and ecu I bought a car with less rust. I am int he process of clearing this rust off, anyway.. I was told by summit that a rebuild kit is going t cost under 40 buks. It doesn't include the hinges.

Anyway. I am planning on a 12A bridge port. Is this carb an over kill? If it is cann't I just down size the needles or something?

earlyer today I went to barns and noble to buy a book on tunning and adjusting a holley or for that matter any carb. I couldn't find a damn thing.

Is an option of have a smaller base plate say one for a 600 switched with the 650 that I bought?

 

its just the jet size man. 650 cfm is the jet size. imo i dont think it is. it will juice your car up really good. just make sure you get it tuned right.

 

Pick up a copy of 'Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors' by Dave Emanuel. Amazon.com shouild have it. Check your part # again, my book lists the 4777 up to -4.

Pick up the Holley Trick Kit, part # 37-910.

I have no idea what you mean by hinges.

Another book to concider is 'Holley Rebuilding and Modifying', by Jeff Williams. Both are SA Books.

 

It has nothing to do with the jet size. 650cfm is the amount of air the carb will flow.

 

I have a 4777-7 on my blower...it's a 650 double-pumper.

Rich

 

I just got off the phone with summit racing.. its a holley model 4150 650CFM. Just what you said 64MGB.

They want 32.88 for the rebuild kit, $19.95 for a cam kit, and 116ish for the base plate.

I checked up on ebay for the cams.. I found them in packs and colored pairs. There only 5.95 for a set. Is there a certain color I should buy?

The baseplate linkage arms are a lil rusted so i was going to try and buy new ones.. while i rebuild it.

Do they sell needle sets in pairs or sets? If I was to get a set. Can someone recommend what size I should get?

Did you mean this book.. holy carb man


I think i am in deep **** here.. according to someones 650 carb thread apparently its not good for what I want. It talks about bogging and stuff. I jsut want to be able to run around town and the HW while beating a few ricers here and there. I figure a 12a.BP would work well with a 650, its what a friend of mine had in the street a while back. He had no problems. ****

 

need the input

 

i have a holley 650 double pumper in my 13b BP.once its tuned, you shouldnt have any problems.the only thing i suggest is to change jet sizes for the weather to keep it running strong. i use slightly larger jets when it is below 60 degrees, and smaller ones when it is above 60. no problems bogging down or anything.

 

but i got a 12a.BP..

What size jets you run? what about the power valve? is it 6.5? a lower one? I guess that since I got a 12A.. i should just start at something thats 10% less than your or anyone else size.

 

when it is colder than 60 degrees, i run 70 primary and 68 on the secondaries. when it is warmer than 60, i run 68 primary and 66 secondaries. i also time to 25-30 degrees BTC leading, and 15-20 degrees BTC trailing. also run different plugs depending on the jet sizes.
hope that gets you to a good start!

 

This is why I never come around anymore.

 

did i miss something? or am i just a moron?

 

I would love to see someone show the math and physics that demonstrate just how a 650 CFM carburetor is best suited for a 70 cid rotary.

-In fact, I'll give you eighty cid @ 12,000 RPM to work with!

 

never said it was BEST suited, but it works. im running 13s in the 1/4, so it really cant be too bad

 

the 650 will work, BUT it would be best if drunkclever spent the money in buying a smaller carb. atomization is key and the 650 on an n/a 2 rotor will not properly meter the air. i have actually run a few different sized holley's and seen how big a change each can make.

now if you're talking about a boost situation then the tables will turn... but you said BP 12a. so get a 450 or a 500cfm, vac secondary, dual fuel feed, 4160 model. simple and works great. won't cost much more than what you plan to spend fixing the DP.

 

When I bought the car I was originally going to run with a 13BTT set up. I had everything picked out, right down to the screws for the clamps that hold the fuel houses. I wasn;t going to go carb at all. At this point is seems I should, I am low on cash. I bought the '82 cus it had less rust. My '85 has rust eating the chassis and frame.

I feel like some dumb *** for spending with out realizeing what I was doing. I was listening to a friend of mine that has a 650 with nitros on his 12A BP. Hes does low nines.

I have read sterline in other forums stateing that the 650 is just too big for a n/a 12A B/P. I understand that. I am and have been looking for a cheap 500 or 600 with vac. sec.