1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Body panels

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-06-08 | 12:32 AM
  #1  
jshiz's Avatar
Thread Starter
Actin Like I'm Drunk

iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, South Carolina
Question Body panels

Is it possible to take off your front quater panels? And if so, how should I go about doing it? I have a nice dent over my passenger's side front tire and I'm tired of looking at it. I dont want to drill, pull and bondo if I dont have too. Thank you

I used the search function, Trochoid's sig, and the archives but i couldn't find it.
Old 02-06-08 | 01:09 AM
  #2  
Rx-7Doctor's Avatar
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,584
Likes: 12
From: Oregon
Yes the fenders come off.
It's a matter of finding all the securing bolts and removing the seal between the fender and joiner parts. There is no write up that I have seen on this but it is not a tough job to do. Just a little time consuming the first time when you are locating all of the securing bolts.
Old 02-06-08 | 01:14 AM
  #3  
chris_g's Avatar
Always Learning
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 684
Likes: 1
From: Western NY
IIRC there are 6 or so bolts up top on the fender, one really hard to get one inside the door jam, 2 under the headlight, 2 on the bottom of the fender near the door and I think one more near the front.

For some reason that seems like a little too many though.

I will do a quick write up Friday if someone reminds me. It will only include WHERE the bolts are located though, I DO NOT want to take it off again. Ever.
Old 02-06-08 | 08:13 AM
  #4  
jshiz's Avatar
Thread Starter
Actin Like I'm Drunk

iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, South Carolina
^Lol.
I'll PM you on friday to do the write up on Friday.
Old 02-06-08 | 04:09 PM
  #5  
BlackWorksInc's Avatar
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel

 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 1
From: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
Aww ****...
I was making a write up on how to redo the front end if you had dents or a collision... but since there wasn't that much interest and I was being hella lazy... I never finished it...

You need to either remove the top panel of the headlight or the whole headlight to reach the farthest foreward bolt, then follow those bolts along ntil you hit near the windshield.

Then remove all the bolts and clips that hold your valence and bumper on, otherwise you can't get the panels off.

There are also two bolts at the end by the door that come off as well; you will find these on the bodttom of the car.

The next part is kricky, you need to either get a long and I mean long extension or squeeze between the panel and the body. First open your door and unsnug the top bolt, if you removed all teh other bolts and left this one on, then this will be a little easier.

Now pull the fender away from the frame like a door until you get some resistance, then squeeze inbetween the body and panel facing the door, there is another bolt that is there, you really only have to unsnug this on and the panel can be slid out.

Viola!

I will see if I can get pics off all the bolts for you.
Old 02-06-08 | 04:31 PM
  #6  
Hades12's Avatar
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,094
Likes: 1
From: Union Mills NC
Just pull the inner fender and then tap out the damage with a hammer and dolly,
Old 02-06-08 | 04:34 PM
  #7  
stilettoman's Avatar
No, it is not stock!
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 600
Likes: 1
From: Carnation, Washington
We could all be more helpful if you post a photo of the damage you want to repair.

In general, I would recommend you try to do the repair with the fender installed. Just remove the wheel, remove the plastic inner fender, and you should have access to push out the dent. With the fender removed, it is awkward to work on because it is so light weight and flimsy. With it installed, you have something to work against, prying or jacking if necessary against the inner structure.
Old 02-06-08 | 04:41 PM
  #8  
jshiz's Avatar
Thread Starter
Actin Like I'm Drunk

iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, South Carolina
Alright, I'll post a photo when I get some time to take a pic.
Old 02-06-08 | 08:04 PM
  #9  
BlackWorksInc's Avatar
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel

 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 1
From: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
Ahhh....my mistake I thought that you were intending to just outright replace that fender.

If you just want to bang out the dent, then do it while the fender is on the car otherwise it is very difficult to work with it unless you have ananvil and a second person to hold it... trust me I tried.

BTW there are three or four screws that hold the plastic wheel well cover in; two at the ends, one on the top and one that connects to that metal pan under the raidator; all are 8mm except for the one at the valence which is 10mm. ((or at least they should be))
Old 06-19-08 | 08:13 PM
  #10  
KING7's Avatar
GETTING THE FD ROLLING

 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: where ever i am
Originally Posted by DemonSpawn67
Ahhh....my mistake I thought that you were intending to just outright replace that fender.

If you just want to bang out the dent, then do it while the fender is on the car otherwise it is very difficult to work with it unless you have ananvil and a second person to hold it... trust me I tried.

BTW there are three or four screws that hold the plastic wheel well cover in; two at the ends, one on the top and one that connects to that metal pan under the raidator; all are 8mm except for the one at the valence which is 10mm. ((or at least they should be))
I am trying to repair my front end and most likely repair the front quater panel
Old 06-19-08 | 08:32 PM
  #11  
bliffle's Avatar
Rotary Freak
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,815
Likes: 0
From: SF BayArea
There's one bolt that holds the fender to the center section.

At worst you have to loosen the headlight shell.

I prefer to remove the fender and then use a sandbag for backing while I pound it out. Don't bump it out too far because then you'll endup grinding metal and bondo and getting metal highspots. Unless you're really good with the hammer and dolly you'll endup using some bondo.

I like using that new Bondo ultraviolet stuff for jobs like that. You don't have to mix, just put it on from the can in the shade then move the piece out in the sun when you want to cure it.

I also got a 1/3 sheet oscillating sander (think it was $25 on sale, Craftsman) and that really helps with finishing. More than you'd think.

You can get paint spraycans that match from paintscratch.com .




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:15 AM.