richyrichmx

I know there is no turbo kits that just bolt on. So im trying to find whats the best turbo for my 85 se. I plan to bridge port and turbo my 7, im looking for around 350-400hp. Any suggestions? So whats the best turbo? thanks

wankelbug

Buy a turbo motor

estevan62274

iTrader: (32)

It's in this link

https://www.rx7club.com/search.php

richyrichmx

a turbo motor will do me no good. i will still have to upgrade the turbo. I need to know what kind of turbo is the best. and i searched it and cant find anything. thats why im asking. What turbo should I buy? Anybody with real help?

©ØÐËߣüË

iTrader: (1)

mikeric

iTrader: (20)

I would recommend you brouse the FC and FD sections, look at dyno charts, and when you find one you like, immitate their turbo setup.

elwood

iTrader: (1)

Check the single turbo section and do a lot of reading. This question is a staple there.

My $0.02: If you're looking for 350 - 400 HP, skip the bridge port and get a turbo motor instead. You'll have a lot more durability for a lot less $.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You need to look up the differences between factory turbo rotary motors and factory n/a motors. The factory turbo motors (starting even with the original 12aT) have different intake manifold and port designs, different compression ratios...

thafox

i dont mean to be rude but i'll tell u exactly how my tuner answered the same question when i asked him he said 'it depends on what you want to do with the car' as far as direction, drivability. etc

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Very true, a larger turbo will take longer to spool than a smaller one, so it will make more power, but for a shorter span of rpms.

A ball bearing turbo is more expensive, but will spool faster.

Your question is kind of open ended, but I would also agree that a turbo motor as a starting point would be optimal for 400hp. It can be done with your engine, but you will drastically lower the life of your engine.

Moving on.... A 60-1, 62-1 (journal bearings), or GT35R are excellent choices.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

13b Bridge, GT3574/GT4202/S475/Twin T04's/20g Td06/T-72/T-76/T-78

We have a turbo section....

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I feel the OP's pain. I posted a similar question in the single turbo forum and pretty much got no response. People love to tell you to search; somehow oblivious to fact that we have....and we even state it in the actual post.

Like you, I am only looking for a starting point recomendation from others that have done this. There are just too many options out there to sort through.

I, for one, just want to do a Turbo swap (TII or RE or REW) and was looking for opinions on turbos and management systems that work well together for my needs....which I listed.

FYI, the single turbo forum is mainy filled with FD owners.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

I'm in the middle of planning out my "growth" into bigger turbos as well. While I am currently stock, there is one thing I've learned from reading everyone else's threads.... you need to plan! You can't just go about throwing whatever you or someone else thinks is the "best" turbo on your car. You'll be rebuilding in no time. Its good you know where you want the car to be in terms of hp, but there are many turbos that can get you there. Learn to read a compressor map and check out everyone's dyno sheets like mikeric said.

I suggest you start with a book titled "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell (Bell Engineering Group). I've learned more about designing turbo systems in this little book than anywhere else. While mainly piston engine oriented, there are also some that are geared more for rotaries... perhaps someone else can chime in with some suggestions.

possuman

If you have a non-turbo motor, the stock compression ration is rather high for turbocharging. A compression ratio is the ratio at which intake air and fuel are squeezed down in the combustion chamber. Due to the high compression ratio, adding a turbo and jamming more air and fuel in the already full combustion chamber can cause the engine to experience detonation. Detonation is when the air and fuel ignite prematurely (before the spark). Detonation subjects engines to unpredictably destructive forces and high heat (heat destroys stock apex seals). Any kind of detonation will destroy an engine, no matter how strongly its built.

Turbo motors are built with a lower compression ratio. This lower compression ratio allows them to function without detonation. It also allows the engine to take greater advantage of the air and fuel being blown in by the turbo because it gives the turbo a greater area to fill.

If you must add a turbo to a non-turbo motor, put on the smallest one you can find. The motor will only be able to take 2-5psi of boost at the maximum (and the life of the motor will be shortened). Additionally, you will have to run high octane fuel (to prevent detonation) and you may need to add some kind of water or methanol injection system to cut down on the additional heat supplied by the turbo.

When my 12A gets up to 150,000 miles (close to needing a new engine) or so, I may add a turbo or supercharger, but I will be adding it with the knowledge that it will destroy my engine after making me go fast for a very short time.