Best power gain from first gen.
#27
I know on some cars to put on super chargers it can be bad on the engine. For example, my 2000 pontiac GTP grand prix had a super charger stock. On the GT model you could not bolt on a SC with out changing injectors and modifying heads and pistons. The extra heat and power would break your pistons. To add to this, you could put a smaller pulley on the SC and get more HP but you had to reduce the engine temp by changing to colder plugs, t stat, intake and exhaust as well as using a spacer to get the throttle body off the SC. Off topic, I got mine doing a 13.8 1/4 mile and didnt even touch the engine. How I miss that car!
Since the rotary's have no pistons etc, and being that most earlier were carbed, what would you have to mod if anything to add a SC? Also, how bad are they on the engine life of a rotary? How about after market turbo systems? Bang for da buck?
Since the rotary's have no pistons etc, and being that most earlier were carbed, what would you have to mod if anything to add a SC? Also, how bad are they on the engine life of a rotary? How about after market turbo systems? Bang for da buck?
#28
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I know some people (perhaps just one?) have put a 7" Camden SC on their rotaries. I think Camden makes a kit, don't they?
Do a search for 7" Camden and you'll find some info on it.
Do a search for 7" Camden and you'll find some info on it.
#30
Here is a link to the FAQ page for camden SC's. It says that there is nothing special to do engine wise and it will not decrease engine life. They are quite expensive at $2395 and boast a 30-50% HP gain. I myself wouldnt recommend them without first going with colder plugs, tstat, headers and exhaust. Although I couldnt find anything saying to do so. Those SC's create alot of heat and you need to decrease the engine temp as much as possible. Strap one of those babys on and they are worth more than than the car. I guess if you have the money to spend.
Also, how would you monitor the internal engine in a 1st gen 7. Atleast with the newer cars you can plug in an auto tap or something and monitor how much knock you are getting so you can lower boost or increase mods accordingly. Excuse me for sounding like an expert and an idiot at the same time.
http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/index.php?pag=303
Also, how would you monitor the internal engine in a 1st gen 7. Atleast with the newer cars you can plug in an auto tap or something and monitor how much knock you are getting so you can lower boost or increase mods accordingly. Excuse me for sounding like an expert and an idiot at the same time.
http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/index.php?pag=303
#31
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has anyone on this board supercharged a carbed 12a? where could i get the kit for a carbed 12a all i can find is for a fuel injected 13b. i know their website says you can use the kit on a 12a but i dont see the one for carburated.
Thanks,
Jay
Thanks,
Jay
#35
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The SE was a 13B. The 12A's used carbs.
If you intend to leave the stock engine in place and not swap out to a 13B, I'd say do every bolt on mod first. The engine should always be the last thing to get done. How much power are you looking to get? If you only want 200 or so, you don't need a 13B. In fact, many have gotten some very high numbers from forced inducted 12A's. You have a low mileage engine, keep it.
The easiest things you can do to go faster are to get a good exhaust on the car. This includes a header and not jsut a catback. A new intake can do wonders. You can mod the stock carb or go an entirely different route such as a Weber or a Holley. Their corresponding intake manifolds would also be much better for power. A light flywheel is very noticable in the acceleration department. These few mods alone will really transform the car into an entriely different animal. Later on if you decide to port it you will already have eerything in place to tune it with. Anyone who says that a ported engine should come first has obviously never worked on one of these cars.
You've got many other options that still retain this engine. You can go to fuel injection. This leaves you with many more intake manifold choices. Standalone ecu's aren't necessarily expensive. You can get one called Megasquirt for as little as $200. I have one of these on my 1st gen. They are also very easy to tune. Again, if anyone says otherwise, they have no experience with them. Engine management can go into the thousands though depending on which system is used. There is still nothing wrong with a good carb though.
You could get into forced induction. The Atkins supercharger isn't a very efficient or powerful device but it will provide a nice fun boost in power. It jsut really lacks overall power potential. This may not neccasrily be a bad thing though if you aren't looking for high power. Many have turbocharged their engines into stratospheric heights.
You've got tons of choices. I don't feel that swapping to a 13B is necessary. I really don't think it wise when you have such a low mileage engine. That's a waste. These swaps aren't necessarily the cheapest or best alternative anyways. There's nothing wrong with the 12A. They are very robust engines. I personally have always had 13B's but my friend's have had some very fun 12A's.
Hope this helps.
If you intend to leave the stock engine in place and not swap out to a 13B, I'd say do every bolt on mod first. The engine should always be the last thing to get done. How much power are you looking to get? If you only want 200 or so, you don't need a 13B. In fact, many have gotten some very high numbers from forced inducted 12A's. You have a low mileage engine, keep it.
The easiest things you can do to go faster are to get a good exhaust on the car. This includes a header and not jsut a catback. A new intake can do wonders. You can mod the stock carb or go an entirely different route such as a Weber or a Holley. Their corresponding intake manifolds would also be much better for power. A light flywheel is very noticable in the acceleration department. These few mods alone will really transform the car into an entriely different animal. Later on if you decide to port it you will already have eerything in place to tune it with. Anyone who says that a ported engine should come first has obviously never worked on one of these cars.
You've got many other options that still retain this engine. You can go to fuel injection. This leaves you with many more intake manifold choices. Standalone ecu's aren't necessarily expensive. You can get one called Megasquirt for as little as $200. I have one of these on my 1st gen. They are also very easy to tune. Again, if anyone says otherwise, they have no experience with them. Engine management can go into the thousands though depending on which system is used. There is still nothing wrong with a good carb though.
You could get into forced induction. The Atkins supercharger isn't a very efficient or powerful device but it will provide a nice fun boost in power. It jsut really lacks overall power potential. This may not neccasrily be a bad thing though if you aren't looking for high power. Many have turbocharged their engines into stratospheric heights.
You've got tons of choices. I don't feel that swapping to a 13B is necessary. I really don't think it wise when you have such a low mileage engine. That's a waste. These swaps aren't necessarily the cheapest or best alternative anyways. There's nothing wrong with the 12A. They are very robust engines. I personally have always had 13B's but my friend's have had some very fun 12A's.
Hope this helps.
#37
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Depends on how streetable you want it. If you want 150 to 200 hp you can have that and be streetable. If you want to go PP you could get anywhere from 250-300, but it will not be very streetable at all...ex: LOW gas mileage, idle at 18-2K rpms, no powerband until 3-5k rpms, "much" higher powerband, must have freeflow exhaust (ear bleeding loud). If you want anything over 220 or so and still be streetable, I would say go forced induction.
Just for the record, the HP #'s between the 12a and the 13b for N/A engines ported or not are not that great of a difference. You only get an extra what...10 to 30 hp?!?!?
Just for the record, the HP #'s between the 12a and the 13b for N/A engines ported or not are not that great of a difference. You only get an extra what...10 to 30 hp?!?!?
#39
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If you are that obsessive with that little bit of hp, why would you not just go with a turbo? In the end it would produce more and could be put on with less effort and most likely cheaper...I would think. Plus it would be a better powerband.
#42
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This discussion makes me miss the mazda even more. Why not, if you have the funds, strap on a RB exhaust, throw a weber or a mikuni on there bridge it put a good suspension on it(springs,struts, antisway bars, etc.), drop in a decent roll cage for those times you feel like being dirty, replace the steering wheel with something more comfy, drop some racing seats in there that match the lines of the car, and there ya go. Nice power but to match you'll want some good tires or you'll be roasting them easily. Also I recommend putting on a rev limiter if you can figure anyway of doing so. Oops almost forgot that flywheel and clutch will want to be replaced, no reason in having all that power and not being able to use it properly. Now thats a good car IMO.
#43
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Not saying a PP or bridge is bad...I am in the process of bridging my spare 12 right now. Got my weber sidedraft and looking at a 48 IDA for my "race" engine. It seems so easy to throw in a different engine, I figured I would have one to take me to work everyday, and one to race from time to time.
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