BEST possible suspension setup
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
BEST possible suspension setup
Ok I plan on racing my car come january next year and I need the best possible suspension setup without changing the stock design, that is not tires sticking out past the fenders, no tubular or different mounting points for suspension components. Basically the best possible components to be used in the stock locations.
I have $1500.00 budget for all.
Hit me with the best prices and where to buy them.
Forget about drivability on the street this is strictly for racing purposes. I need the best only within that budget.
I appreciate your help...
thanks.
I have $1500.00 budget for all.
Hit me with the best prices and where to buy them.
Forget about drivability on the street this is strictly for racing purposes. I need the best only within that budget.
I appreciate your help...
thanks.
#2
Old [Sch|F]ool
oh, so you mean "the best possible i can get for only $1500"
I thijnk some racing shock setups for for $4000... So you won't get the "BEST" possible.
I'd say call up G-Force Engineering and have a talk with them.
I thijnk some racing shock setups for for $4000... So you won't get the "BEST" possible.
I'd say call up G-Force Engineering and have a talk with them.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I don't live in USA but I'll give them a call. So I guess G-force is good...and yeap best suspension for $1500.00 that's all I can save up for suspension so far for my budget racer.
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Damn 700in/lbs!!! what is that, a solid piece of metal?
will be doing some track racing I don't know which type of race I can compare it to the US, but the circuit has like 9 turns. I has two long straights one being of 750mts long the other one probably like 500mts a U turn which has to be taken almost at 1-2gear and a couple of long curves. It's a made up track in a landing strip but much faster than xcross and is against other cars. I will be running in the 0-2500 class without any restrictions to the motor. I plan to run either a very large streetport o maybe a bridge, I think I'll do the streetport because I need the torque to be way down for the turns. There are currently no RX-7s running in that class because everybody with rxs have 13Bs and turbos...they have a multiplying factor for the rotaries (x 2) so effectively a 13 is a 2.6 liter engine. I have a 2.4
Most cars in that class are under 200hp and the dominating cars are toyotas 4AGE FXs, and Lada Samaras (russian/fiat), then honda civics. I think I should be able to smoke them at least in the straights.
My car is already stripped and I'm doing the safety mods, relocating battery, roll cage etc.
but seriously I need a good suspension.
will be doing some track racing I don't know which type of race I can compare it to the US, but the circuit has like 9 turns. I has two long straights one being of 750mts long the other one probably like 500mts a U turn which has to be taken almost at 1-2gear and a couple of long curves. It's a made up track in a landing strip but much faster than xcross and is against other cars. I will be running in the 0-2500 class without any restrictions to the motor. I plan to run either a very large streetport o maybe a bridge, I think I'll do the streetport because I need the torque to be way down for the turns. There are currently no RX-7s running in that class because everybody with rxs have 13Bs and turbos...they have a multiplying factor for the rotaries (x 2) so effectively a 13 is a 2.6 liter engine. I have a 2.4
Most cars in that class are under 200hp and the dominating cars are toyotas 4AGE FXs, and Lada Samaras (russian/fiat), then honda civics. I think I should be able to smoke them at least in the straights.
My car is already stripped and I'm doing the safety mods, relocating battery, roll cage etc.
but seriously I need a good suspension.
#7
Hunting Skylines
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
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Poly bushes throughout the front-end.
Poly in the Watts-linkage and lower trailing arms.
Koni Yellow shocks all around.
Lowered coils.
Big front sway-bar.
Depending on the balance of car either leave, remove or upgrade rear sway-bar.
Have struts corrected (bent) for extra negative camber. Around 2* is good but it depends on your wheel offset and tire size as to whether the tire will rub on the strut.
Run at least 4* castor and set toe in to 1mm.
That is the basic setup that I'm running and it handles great. It's probably about the best you can do on a fairly limited budget.
Poly in the Watts-linkage and lower trailing arms.
Koni Yellow shocks all around.
Lowered coils.
Big front sway-bar.
Depending on the balance of car either leave, remove or upgrade rear sway-bar.
Have struts corrected (bent) for extra negative camber. Around 2* is good but it depends on your wheel offset and tire size as to whether the tire will rub on the strut.
Run at least 4* castor and set toe in to 1mm.
That is the basic setup that I'm running and it handles great. It's probably about the best you can do on a fairly limited budget.
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