Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I just did. It hurt the nikki bad, clogging everything up. But the OER is taking it like a champ.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Ok guys, found the culprit, so I figured I would post it here.

Turns out that the return line with the one way valve was the problem. Got it from a forum member and just stuck it on. Got to put my new carb assembly on yesterday and got to thinking about it. Since it is a one way check valve, maybe when I ran the nikki hard and the float bowls started draining, the fuel that was in the hose before the valve went back into the bowls. So to test my theory, Grabbed a tupperware container and stuck the valve and hose after the fuel filter and flicked the car on. So much crap and gunk came out! I am happy that atleast it was used post-carb and not pre-carb! So hmm. Lets double check if that is the problem. Looked at the fuel filter, still clean. So I grabbed some of my new fuel line and took the old junk off and stuck that on instead. Flicked the car on.

CLEAR GAS!


Just thought I would update the thread with my findings!

Stu

Kentetsu

Thanks for the update. Happy motoring...

mikewoodkozar

Good stuff man

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Don't you know to always use fresh rubbers

Glad you found the problem. Now you can get past all this carb nonsense finally.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

You know, that's a good tip. When the next noob pops in with a bad filter, we can all tell him to replace his supply AND return lines from the firewall.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Haha. Yeah, hopefully. I think I got the jettings right. New manifold is on, all I need it to do now is stop flooding. If it doesn't start in 2 seconds it floods out. Plus I need to rig up my throttle… hopefully I won't be 7less when the meet comes around.

5 days til my blues come in!

Crit

iTrader: (6)

You're using the OER, right? From Robert's post, it looks like the floats are externally adjustable, as is the AP. Very cool. Are you trying to hit a spec on float level in a sight glass, or do you just turn a screw back and forth until you stop running dry or flooding?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, external adjustment on floats and AP. Love the carb, there are so many adjustments compared to the weber version. I just want to get the dang thing running. I will mess with the mixture screws when I get back home. Only problem is that when it did start it ran for about 2 seconds before dying, and I couldn't blip the gas (not hooked up). I got jets, e tubes, chokes, etc out the wazoo.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I told Stu this awhile ago. Damn kids just won't listen

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

You know it. Gonna mess with the mix screws when I get home. If that doesn't work, I'll quit until I get the dang cable issues taken care of.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Stu does it have a choke for cold starts of some sort? Do you have a working choke cable? You'll need it in this weather. Anything below 50 degrees and its real easy to flood a rotary with one of these two barrels and no choke. Ask me how I know

yodler

sorry for the dumb question - newbie here - is the fuel filter supposed to be made of plastic or metal? the fram one i got from kragen is white plastic, but i got under the car and only see what looks like a silver metal filter in the fuel line. is this fram thing just a p.o.s.? what are the other ones made of?

thanks --

kgray

I actually prefer plastic as you can see how the filter is looking without cutting it open. They are made out of both. No need to worry.

sneezix

The OEM is plastic.

speedturn

iTrader: (1)

Peterson makes great filters. I have run one in my road race car for 10 years now with zero problems.

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter_fuel.html

They use a stainless steel screen; you can disassemble them and clean them and reuse 'em.