How much have you spent already?

 

HAHAHA, um, I broke it down earlier in the thread I think, I'm gonna look for it. Are you talking on this project (carpet/interior) or with the other ones I'm doing?

Carpet Front/Rear - $244.95
Dynamat - $160
Primer (4 cans) - $20
Acetone - $15
Wire Wheels - $20
Box of Rags - $10
Color Bond (3 cans) - $38.85
Color Bond Prep Cleaner (3 bottles) - $26.85

 

Oh, I should've looked. Thanks

 

Its all good, I forgot to put the cost of the colorbond in that last price list. This one has it in there.

Both this project, and the engine bay one I'm doing weren't very expensive, just time consuming. The only reason my engine bay project cost me a little more than it would for most people is because I bought Racing Beat oil lines so I could get rid of my bee hive. And when you buy those lines, and all those damn adapters, its pricey. But the other stuff was just gaskets, so it wasn't too bad.

Man, the more I read/post/view these threads of mine, the more I wish I was at home working on it, instead of being at work. DAMN YOU WORK, takin up my precious day light .

 

Sweet, I bet the final pics will be awesome. Keep up the good work.

 

Just wanted to point out one thing,

it looks f'ing awesome so I am not bashing you

but...........

primer that is not covered with paint will absorb moisture. Just something I learned in auto body classes I have taken.

but like I said it looks good.

 

Good to know, thanks. Maybe I will grab a can that matches the primer as close as possible, and shoot the spots that will not be covered by dynamat.

Thanks for the tip and compliment.

 

Wow I did not know that, I wish I would have I sprayed my new metal bins with primer to help avoid rusting, but now I know I just helped it. PooP

Oh well, Thanks for the tip

 

What difference in sound have you noticed as a result of using the dynamat?? Before vs after...

 

I like the way it sounds now with the dynamat, even though I don't have it all done. I still have the doors to do, and a few small areas around the hatch. Oh, and I still have to put the interior panels back in. All I have in is the dash, front carpet, and seats. But I still like the quietness.

I ran it completely stripped (hatch area only) for about a month, before I decided to do the whole car, and got used to the loud noise. I don't rally recall what it sounded like with all the factory stuff, but I'm sure this is WAY better. I used more than they did at the factory anyway, so that helps.

 

When it come to repainting the interior metal, there are several options. Primer itself is designed to bond to the metal and provide a good bonding layer/tooth for a top finish coat. It will absorb moisture and begin rusting under the primer.

It's best to use a good quality primer/sealer, with a top coat, or you can go the route I have been using lately and use an epoxy. These paints get a bit more expensive, but provide the long term protection needed. They also don't come in a rattle can, so one needs a compressor and a small touch-up spray gun, which can be had for 50 bucks.

It's great to spend the time and effort to do this extensive of a restoration, but it only lasts as long as the protective products. Investing in the proper tools and materials compliments the investment of time put into the work. This is what sets the diyers apart from the pros.

A nice benifit of buying a compressor and spray gun, and using it on small jobs like this is it builds confidence, practice and experience so one can take on bigger jobs later, like painting the entire car.

 

whats in my shell?

 

Spare parts. lol I didn't strip the inside. The wheel well repairs stilll need painted inside, they will get epoxy, same as the underbody did.

 

True... except epoxy primer will not absorb moisture.

 

Thanks for that, I will do a quick mask job, since the interior still isnt installed, and go over the exposed primer with a topcoat of a good quality. I left the areas around the seams for the rear shock/spring area clear of dynamat so I can just wire off the primer and weld the seams for rigidity. So, I'll do that before I shoot a top coat. Then when time comes for a cage, I can pull up the dynamat in the areas where the base of the cage will lay, and do the same. I better get that top coat on the exposed primer soon, before the rainy season starts here (not that its much of a rainy season, SoCal).

 

Where are the pics?

 

looks good

 

haha, i put the pics up of the cleaned engine bay in my other thread.

I'll get the pics of the rear with the dynamat installed tonight. i totally forgot to snap those lastnight when I snapped the pics for the other thread.

 

Oh, ok. Sweet

 

does the black dye look like it could possibly be factory once it's all said and done? i've been wanting to do a black int. conversion on my gsl se for a long time now, but i just didnt know how to get a black dash and stuff. this is an awesome project by the way. i did a complete interior overhaul on my 86 gxl, it's very time consuming, but amazingly fun and worth the time.

 

The dash looks OEM, but is a little dull in shine, I am going to see if some interior cleaning/shine products will bring it out a little more. But I am happy with the way the dash turned out, looks good.

Oh, I've got the pics of the back half of the car with the dynamat in, I'll put them up as soon as I get them off the camera, resize, and send them to my ftp server.

 

Here are the pics of the back. I still have little bit more to put in.

 

looking good

im doin the same to my SE...

 

in your last picture there\, why does it seem all wrinked up where it start curving up in the center?

 

All of them do that. Its under your factory sound deadener so you cant see it really. Its because of that compnd bed that sheet of steel makes, it curves up toward the hatch, and down at the same time to the bins.