jr69187

WEll i was setting the motor on two spare tires when it happend it fell. I caught it screwed up my knee. But it was caught on the oil cooler. And it pushed it off and guess what the oil coiler had broke lose. And it broke off the side of the back housing where the two line feed up to the bottom plate where the oil cooler screws on. What do i do do i tap it or do i jb weld it. Sorry i ahve not been online spent the weekend pulliung my motor and getting the spare wired and ready torun and this mess happens well let my know. Thanks i may just jb weld it.

dan

jr69187

Well the jb weld will not hold. So now we will tap it with brass fittings any idea what kind of lines can we use between the brass fittings? Can i use heater hose or should i use steel braided hose. Luckily we have a friend who has a machine shop. And he is gonna take a stab at it this sucks. Found a motor that runs with less than 60k on the dash and started in a wrecked car. So any other ideas? I am gonna tap it on the two broken parts and run lines between it. Think this will work i will post some pics tonight of what happend.

peejay

EEsh... if you broke the pedestal off of the rear housing, then pretty much that housing is junk... oil gets supplied at 100+psi.

well, at least it was the junk engine...

jr69187

It was a junk engine that ran it was my spare. Yes i only gave 75 for it but it would have gotten the beast back on the road. WEll i guess i shall just use some brass fittings and try and make it work. I think it is way to weak for my punny butt to have broke it. But oh well where there is a torch there is a way.

ladelberg

Which engine do you have?

jr69187

12a with 64k out of a junk yard that ran that is better than 184k with a blown apex seal. but i broke it and no i am open to ideas on how to fix it.

dan

SOLORX7

Well you could just swap the back housing with a good one. you would have to remove the flywheel (no fun) undo the tension bolts,carefully remove the back housing,install new o-ring and good rear housing and reass.I would suggest tearing down your old one first to see if it has a useable rear housing,your bud at the machine shop may be able to resurface it if it is lightly scored.that may be the best cheap way to do it.let me know how you make out.

Felix Wankel

Man removing the flywheel is fun! Zip the nut off with an impact and bash the **** out of the flywheel with a hammer and it will pop off. Good stress relief.

Rotor13B

lmmfao felix....:p

peejay

I wouldn't trust any of the O-rings anymore once you unzip the tension bolts.... meaning take the rear housing off, should disassemble the whole engine and replace all of the coolant/dowel O-rings.

O-rings have a nasty habit of leaking if you take the clamping pressure off of them and re-tighten them, no experiense w/this with the housing O-rings on a rotary but I'd imagine it's the same.

Plus, you have to HIT the housings off... trying to take the rear housing off will result in the rest of the engine "popping apart", and the coolant O-rings tend to stick to the housings so they get shredded... not fun.

I thought it was the junk engine you pulled out that you dropped? must've read it wrong.

stinkfist

Peejay is right. If you take the rear housing off you have to rebuild the whole engine.

You want an easy solution? Weld the hole up. Get a front mount oil cooler from out of a pre 83 or se model. Plumb an external oil filter mount from summit between the oil cooler and the rear housing. A good side affect is you will be able to use a huge oil filter.

Mike

WackyRotary

I'd have to agree with PeeJay, if you take the tension bolts off you need to replace other things as well. The tensionbolt rings will be torn since they are made to be used once. Also relieving pressure on the inner rotor housing rings will be a risky thing. The outer ones are more reusable but if the rings stick partially to the endplate they will be stretched and unusable. Even if you manage to pull the rear end plate off carefully other things will be loose.

Go ahead and do it if you want, but it will be a possible headache if things leak when you go through the time to put everything back together...only to find you need to take it out and replace rings. I'm not saying it won't work, but it would be better to dissassemble the engine and port it and clean it good and then put it back to gether.

One time I managed to reuse the inner rotor housing rings, but...the engine had not been assembled for more then 20minutes and the sealant was not cured yet, but because I wasn't paying attention and put the rear rotor in the front!!! Yeap, I was an idiot!!...didn't notice till I looked through the exhuast port while turning it over by hand! Good thing, the rotor dishes have the "F" and "R" for a reason and are made with certain shape for best utilization of combustion pressure that way. Luckily nothing leaked and got 25K out the engine before doing more mod's to it(porting/race corner seal springs/underdrive pulley/etc, etc.)



IF your engine had less then 20K on it from a year or two old on those
seals, I would reuse all the rubber o-rings in the engine if they look ok, I done so before with no problems. But the problem with high mile ones is different, they are from 85 and are just shy of 20years old!.... meaning they are getting brittle and moving them will result in wrecking them.

SOLORX7

I should have added a p.s. to my last post last resort only if all other options fail and no money for a complete gasket set. sorry

peejay

Cool thing about Hylomar is that it NEVER cures... it stays viscous.

I used too much when I put the "D.C.O.E." engine together, it all smushed out externally between the housings and internally when I was test-rotating the engine to make sure it turned smoothly, I looked inside and to my horror the rotor sides and tips and apex seals were covered with big globs of the stuff!

Fired on first crank, after I remembered to re-connect the ignition systems. Even now, 11 months after assembly, the remains of the Hylomar still on the top of the engine can be wiped off and smeared around... funny thing is I didn't use ENOUGH at the bottom corners of the housings, because there are some minor oil leaks coming out from between the housings themselves near the header. Oh well, live 'n' learn.

jr69187

Well we are tapping it putting one of the old big cooler in it. but the oils line form the filter plugs back into the pan. But i do not see the hole they used? did they change the castings in 85. Also i need to know which of the two holes coming out of the block is the feed and which is the supply that way i can mount the filter in there correct. when i get this done i will post the pics. I am now the proud owner of 3 rx7 parts cars anyone need anything? i have an 83 80 78. pretty much all complete.

Dan

stinkfist

Feed is from the rear housing and it returns to the front cover.

peejay

Oil goes from the oil pump on the front housing, through the pesky O-ring into the front cover, out from the front cover to the oil cooler. On non '83-85 12As the oil cooler feeds into the bottom of the rear housing, goes up to the oil filter, and then through the upper dowel pins.

On '83-85 12As... I'm not certain but it definitely goes through both the upper dowel pins and down the rear housing, because the oil pressure gauge fitting and the oil pressure bypass are both located in the rear housing.

jr69187

See the problem is is there still a place to feed the oil back into the rear housing and upinto the oil filter. Did they plug the hold in the back housing on the 83-85 or did they make a new housing? If they plugged it then i can just remove the plug and run my line returning from the coiler into the the rear housing. and from the two holes in the rear housing into a remote oil filter. You can get the remote oil filter for a street rod and just tap those two holes and run lines to it to filter the oil, but if there is no hole in the back housing to fee it back into i will have to use the stock air oil cooler to feed the coil into the filter and then run the lines back into the part i broke off the rear housing.