1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

ATF or MMO treatment?

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Old 04-28-03, 11:13 PM
  #26  
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If you do an ATF treatment, you MUST change your plugs afterwards. That's why when doing the ATF method you are supposed to use old plugs, and when you're finished put in fresh ones.
Old 04-29-03, 12:14 AM
  #27  
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yeah. I would use old plugs, but they are bent (i dont remember how, but i bent the connectors).

i'm going to get generic plugs to replace them for now, until i can get propper NGK plugs.

Tomorrow is judgement day, i will fire the car up and see if it works or not. Lets hope it does!!!!!

~Geoff
Old 04-29-03, 01:09 AM
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Good luck!
Old 04-29-03, 02:32 AM
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Hey IoTus I noticed you have the brushed stainless steel dash kit. How do you like it because I am considering buying one. Does the cupholder work well? How hard was it to install an aftermarket CD player with it, and did the dash kit hold it in place?
Old 04-29-03, 02:44 AM
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The aftermarket kit is great.

i got it from manntis.

Things i have noticed:

1) The foamcore innards dont work at ALL. They are all loose and dont hold the cupholder thing in place any more. I need to make the innards out of wood.

2) The cupholder works great for taller cups, the bottom rests down by the ash tray.

3) It doesnt quite fit right in mine. I still havent figured out what i'm doing wrong. Too lazy to fix it yet.

I would definaetly reccomend it though. It looks really good in my opinion.
Old 04-29-03, 04:09 PM
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about the plugs.... it was wet and covered with atf... I have the NGK that has 4 corners... she fired.. no problem...

by the way... what does ATF do to your cats... it didn't do anything to mine...
Old 04-29-03, 04:22 PM
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ATF burns hotter than gas. So when it gets on the stuff that hold the converter together, it gets hotter than they can take and melts the cats closed.
Old 04-29-03, 04:35 PM
  #33  
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If you're running a super cat or no cat at all, then you don't have to worry about it.
Old 04-29-03, 06:48 PM
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MMO didnt work. It helped, but didnt work. Off to buy some ATF!
Old 04-29-03, 10:50 PM
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keep trying MMO... by the time you get to your 10th-20th fill up with consistent MMO treatment... it should do it... it also doesn't hurt to remove your lower and upper intake manifold and take a OIL DEGREASER and a wire brush... and scrub away for about 2 hours...
Old 04-29-03, 10:54 PM
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Yeah exactly....the MMO takes a lil time but you'll feel the difference when it happens.
Old 04-30-03, 10:59 AM
  #37  
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I'm glad to see that some people are re-evaluating the "wisdom" of putting ATF in their motors. The stuff ain't meant to burn, and can definitely clog catalytic converters (at the very least) when it gets puked out into the exhaust system. Now if somebody would just try the Techron treatment instead...
Old 04-30-03, 11:11 AM
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what the F*ck is the techron treatment...
Old 04-30-03, 12:56 PM
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I used techron for awhile and it seemed to be about like MMO.

With MMo my cars run better every week.

B
Old 04-30-03, 01:18 PM
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MMO in the fuel or MMO the engine along with oil? I have been using MMO in the fuel for 3 tankful of gas now. I noticed some differences. How much are we suppose to use in the fuel anyway? I am using about 4oz per 10 gallion of gas. If I want to clean things up, should I use more?

Thanks
Old 04-30-03, 02:31 PM
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hell, i used MMO and even Klotz synthetic in the fuel and works fine the first tank. with the second and third tanks, the car runs like ****-crappy throttle response and boggy. it only runs better after a few tanks of gas only. somebody help me out.

are you using the stock fuel filter?

to answer future questions :
engine: 13B 4port streetport
fuel pump and regulator: holley
fuel pressure: 3.5 psi
upgraded 5/16" undercar fuel rail
dellorto 48MM
MSD blaster2 coils
accelle 8mm wires
plugs: denso 27's
Old 04-30-03, 09:33 PM
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I suspect your fuel pressure may be a bit low. Racing Beat recommended 4.5 PSI for the Dellorto carbs.

The Techron treatment involves squirting Techron right in the intake while you hand-crank the motor, just enough to coat all the rotor faces, and then letting it sit for a couple of days to a week. Then you start it up and blow it out for a few minutes, then go drive it steadily for about 30 minutes. That's to make sure that any dislodged carbon does not re-deposit itself in the apex seal slots.

You know, I don't usually respond well to the phrase "what the F*ck...", but I think that the dissemination of this particular information is important enough to overlook it this time...
Old 04-30-03, 09:54 PM
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my bad...
Old 05-01-03, 12:05 PM
  #44  
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No problem, I appreciate your understanding!

By the way, Amsoil "Power Foam" does a real good job of de-carboning engine internals as well. Spray about a half a can down the carb while you keep the motor running, then shut off the motor and fill the carb with foam. Then hand crank it into the motor and repeat a couple of times to insure that you get plenty of the stuff in the motor. Let it sit for a couple of hours to a couple of days, then start it up and blow the carbon out. It'll smoke like crazy for a bit, then take it out and drive it for about 30 minutes or so. You'll notice the difference, I guarantee. You don't ruin a $20 set of plugs, either, by using Techron or Power foam, so it actually ends up being cheaper, as well as safer!
Old 05-01-03, 02:55 PM
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They sell this stuff called sea foam that I used right before my first engine let go. If power foam is anything like it I wouldn't recommend it. Also, wasn't there a huge debate on mazspeed.com long ago about what a bunch of crap those foaming products are? I'm pretty sure some rotary shop was pushing it and everyone was calling them out. . .
Old 05-02-03, 11:34 AM
  #46  
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So let me get this straight:
You're refuting my recommendation of Amsoil Power foam because although you've never used it, you assume that it is like other "foaming products" that were the subject of some debate on a forum "long ago"?
Personally, I try to only post on subjects that I have firsthand experience in, or at least know SOMETHING about.
Old 05-02-03, 03:09 PM
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Ok I'M A BELIEVER. I've ran MMO in my gas tank for the last couple of days, and the idle has already smoothed out. You can almost not even feel it!!
Old 05-02-03, 03:36 PM
  #48  
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Originally posted by Wankelguy
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By the way, Amsoil "Power Foam" does a real good job of de-carboning engine internals as well. Spray about a half a can down the carb while you keep the motor running, then shut off the motor and fill the carb with foam. Then hand crank it into the motor and repeat a couple of times to insure that you get plenty of the stuff in the motor. Let it sit for a couple of hours to a couple of days, then start it up and blow the carbon out. It'll smoke like crazy for a bit, then take it out and drive it for about 30 minutes or so. You'll notice the difference, I guarantee. You don't ruin a $20 set of plugs, either, by using Techron or Power foam, so it actually ends up being cheaper, as well as safer!
Isn't that the stuff that ATkinsRotary recommends that can possibly fix a carbon locked engine?
Old 05-02-03, 07:51 PM
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I don't know if Atkins recommends Power foam, but yes, it can free up stuck apex seals, as I have witnessed this myself. I think Racing Beat has recommended it in the past, but my Racing Beat catalog is from 1985 and Racing Beat seems to be "revising" some of their earlier recommendations as necessary for their current marketing strategy. Just my opinion, though.
Old 05-02-03, 10:55 PM
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SORRY I was just throwing in my two cents. . . If the old mazspeed board was still available maybe I could back the claim. However I do have experience with Sea foam and I can tell you it didn't bring me any luck.


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