Anyone successfully running a 13B-REW in an FB?
#27
I looked at the ReSpeed kit the other day and it looks like it uses the holes on the front cover to mount the engine to their kit. This would mean that you would still need to have the 1st gen front cover. That being said, I think that it would still be an awesome addition to a first gen.
#28
i think the respeed kit is a great kit for almost any swap, but yes you would need to use a front mount set up. it pretty much eliminates any oil pan issue since the steering rack is moved up in front and the set up leaves you with a huge empty space between the steering rack and the fire wall/tranny letting the oil pan hang freely. there is a guy that made a custom subframe and front mount for a 3 rotor in a 1st gen and this kit pretty much is the same concept but better. i really cant say since i havnt seen it in real life but after doing all the research and seeing how everyone went about doing these swaps i think that the respeed kit is the answer.
#29
sorry for the double post. but as far as the CAS goes i think if your going to use a standalone why not use the TEC3 that comes with a CAS trigger wheel. im using it on my 20b and the TEC3 pretty much relys on itself to run the engine meaning it supplys EVERYTHING you need to get the engine up and running. no need to worry about TII coil packs or other ignition components. it is truly "stand alone." bottom line is that with a TEC3 all you need is to get the engine mounted and the TEC3 will take care of the rest. of course you will need all manifolds,piping ect ect .
#30
Billy should really comment on this. But IIRC correctly the ReSpeed unit does not change the motor mount locations. That being said there will be no advantage motor mount wise to getting his kit. That being said: I am very impressed with his work, and it is a great modification for a car that is going to see a lot of track time. Everyone that I have talked to about his kit loves it.
You will need a 2nd gen CAS. It will drop into the stock location on the 13b cover. Not 100% sure on the 12A cover.
If you have the FMOC that is more than adequate. Spend the money and get the AN fittings for the lines. Banjo fittings are less than optimal. I think that the total cost was somewhere around $70.
Great input on the front cover Jeff. 12a's are more abundant. My car is a GSL-SE so I used that.
If you run a stock ECU you will still need to have a OMP. The ECU needs to see a signal. As Jeff mentioned when the ECU does not see the OMP it goes into limp mode. Steve knows a lot more about the OMP's than myself. A standalone was required for my build so I just did not even bother with messing with the OMP.
You will need a 2nd gen CAS. It will drop into the stock location on the 13b cover. Not 100% sure on the 12A cover.
If you have the FMOC that is more than adequate. Spend the money and get the AN fittings for the lines. Banjo fittings are less than optimal. I think that the total cost was somewhere around $70.
Great input on the front cover Jeff. 12a's are more abundant. My car is a GSL-SE so I used that.
If you run a stock ECU you will still need to have a OMP. The ECU needs to see a signal. As Jeff mentioned when the ECU does not see the OMP it goes into limp mode. Steve knows a lot more about the OMP's than myself. A standalone was required for my build so I just did not even bother with messing with the OMP.
#31
We're probably just going to do a custom oil pan until we get the ReSpeed kit, then switch it out for a stock part.
#33
I am planning on making a custom subframe so I can use the stock REW engine mounts, so I would be keeping the REW front cover, since I doubt the signal from the FC CAS would be interpreted correctly my the stock ECU. We plan on going to a full standalone, but it's not in the current budget.
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