any pics of oil temp and/or oil pressure senders for 84 gsl-se?? I searched a lot!!!
#1
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any pics of oil temp and/or oil pressure senders for 84 gsl-se?? I searched a lot!!!
Hey guys, it's 2:00 A.M. here in PA, and I have class at 8 so this is going to be short. I won some gauges off of e-bay (autometer oil temp and oil pressure, mechanical). I know there is a RB adaptor of some sort, but it looks rather confusing and from searching, it seems it is hard to install (not to mention $50, sort of steep). I know a lot of you use oil pressure and oil temp gauges, and I was wonding if anybody had some pictures of their setups? I am interested specificallyon where/how to install a sender for the oil pressure and temp, not so much where to mount the gauges themselves. If anybody could get me some pictures or lead me to a write-up, I'd appreciate it. Also, if there is no write-up, I will make one once my gauges come in, but I do need help on how to install them. Thanks!! I would like to keep the original gauge operational as well, so I think this needs a "T" fitting? what specifically is that? a link to an actual product page or something like that would be great. The more help I can get the better, thanks!!!
~Andrew
~Andrew
#2
The setup I got from Mazdatrix is simple.Its just an aluminum block that bolts on where the oil filter pedestal goes,then you bolt the pedestal on top of the block,screw in the temp/pressure senders,and replace your oil filter.#11802
http://www.mazdatrix.com/boil2.htm
You can make a tee for the pressure sender and run it next to the stock sender.Simple,easy all it needs is a head of pressure against it, to work.
The oil temp is a little more complex.Youd have to weld a bung onto the oilpan and screw it in there,or make a tee in one of the cooler lines and screw it in there so the oil flows by the sender probe,actually contacting.Not really worth the time/effort to do all that.It easier to get the block,itll kill two problems in one job and keep all the clutter in one small corner of the engine bay.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/boil2.htm
You can make a tee for the pressure sender and run it next to the stock sender.Simple,easy all it needs is a head of pressure against it, to work.
The oil temp is a little more complex.Youd have to weld a bung onto the oilpan and screw it in there,or make a tee in one of the cooler lines and screw it in there so the oil flows by the sender probe,actually contacting.Not really worth the time/effort to do all that.It easier to get the block,itll kill two problems in one job and keep all the clutter in one small corner of the engine bay.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 04-14-05 at 02:44 AM.
#3
You got mechanical, which means you cannot mount them inside unless you get there High Pressure Isolator. It allows you to mount those type of gauges inside without worry of a bad accident. I have not seen any of those. All the stock gauges are electrical. I use the one wire electrical Autometer gauges. The problem is that you will not be able to use the stock gauges anymore with any aftermarket senders.
Water Temp
Oil Pressure
Water Temp
Oil Pressure
#4
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
The setup I got from Mazdatrix is simple.Its just an aluminum block that bolts on where the oil filter pedestal goes,then you bolt the pedestal on top of the block,screw in the temp/pressure senders,and replace your oil filter.#11802
http://www.mazdatrix.com/boil2.htm
You can make a tee for the pressure sender and run it next to the stock sender.Simple,easy all it needs is a head of pressure against it, to work.
The oil temp is a little more complex.Youd have to weld a bung onto the oilpan and screw it in there,or make a tee in one of the cooler lines and screw it in there so the oil flows by the sender probe,actually contacting.Not really worth the time/effort to do all that.It easier to get the block,itll kill two problems in one job and keep all the clutter in one small corner of the engine bay.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/boil2.htm
You can make a tee for the pressure sender and run it next to the stock sender.Simple,easy all it needs is a head of pressure against it, to work.
The oil temp is a little more complex.Youd have to weld a bung onto the oilpan and screw it in there,or make a tee in one of the cooler lines and screw it in there so the oil flows by the sender probe,actually contacting.Not really worth the time/effort to do all that.It easier to get the block,itll kill two problems in one job and keep all the clutter in one small corner of the engine bay.
also, do you have any pictures of your setup?
john64, your pictures aren't showing up for me
#5
Billy is doing a new Filter Pedistal. I plan to get one of them and get rid of my under the pedistal block.
See here for what he is making.
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/fc.html
See here for what he is making.
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/fc.html
#6
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it says on that page that it's for the FD... is he making one for the FB? He also seems to have made a "aluminum block" that is similar to the mazdatrix and racingbeat one... anybody know if it comes w/the stuff that the mazdatrix comes with? (gaskets, etc) $22 is a lot less than $48
there is a mazdatrix pedastal but it's like $85 a.k.a. way too much for a broke a$$ college student (and they only have blue)
there is a mazdatrix pedastal but it's like $85 a.k.a. way too much for a broke a$$ college student (and they only have blue)
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#9
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finally back in an RX-7!!
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after sending a few e-mails to billy, I found out that I could not use the FD one, but he has a block very similar to the RB and mazdatrix one, but much cheaper ($21.99 shipped) so I will probably get the block style... does anybody have any pictures of any three of these installed, either RB, MazdaTrix, or mrc mfg's with mech oil pressure and electrical oil temp?
thanks!
::edit:: linky - http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/sa.html
thanks!
::edit:: linky - http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/sa.html
#12
Originally Posted by viper1_20012004
In the 1st pic what is the little sencer, by the oil pressure sender
Rich
#13
Either one of the choices is a simple install. The block style has been around forever and the pedestal replacement not as long. the drawback to the current pedestal style is the fitment of the mechanical temp sender - it is so long.
Our new FD unit has been tested and the prototypes are running on a few cars. We have moved into production on the FD units as well as a version that works on 12A and 13B's from '70 up to '91. They have (2) 1/8 NPT holes for electric senders.
In order to use a mechanical temp sender on the pedestal replacement block we would need to use a bung like the FD bung. This adds a few extra machining steps. I had offered this option to kiker14, for a one off it was kind of pricy. I do not mind running a batch of these specifically for mechanical temp senders if there is a market for them.
-billy
Our new FD unit has been tested and the prototypes are running on a few cars. We have moved into production on the FD units as well as a version that works on 12A and 13B's from '70 up to '91. They have (2) 1/8 NPT holes for electric senders.
In order to use a mechanical temp sender on the pedestal replacement block we would need to use a bung like the FD bung. This adds a few extra machining steps. I had offered this option to kiker14, for a one off it was kind of pricy. I do not mind running a batch of these specifically for mechanical temp senders if there is a market for them.
-billy
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