another 12a porting question
#1
another 12a porting question
So I just pulled apart a 12a I've had in storage for awhile , all of the housings look good to me, abit of cleaning needed , but good I think.. anyways I'm going to port the intake and exaust , and was wondering how much HP I can pull out of it , and how big I can make the ports without cutting into the water jacket
its a project car and doesnt need to live very long or be street drivavble
its a project car and doesnt need to live very long or be street drivavble
#3
Since you asked how far you can port, then I will venture a guess that you haven't ported before. Therefore, I suggest you buy a porting template and spend some time over at nopistons.com in thier engine building and porting section. Read eveything you can about porting and study the pics.
As far as templates, the RB/Mazdatrix ones are considered conservitive. If you want to get more aggressive, find Judge Ito's template. If you don't care about engine longevity or streetability, look into doing a 1/2 or full bridgeport. Keep in mind that to make full use of a bps high rpm hp band, engine mods/upgrades can add up to 1k in parts and machineing to the cost of a standard or sp rebuild, not to mention the carb and exhaust upgrades needed.
As far as templates, the RB/Mazdatrix ones are considered conservitive. If you want to get more aggressive, find Judge Ito's template. If you don't care about engine longevity or streetability, look into doing a 1/2 or full bridgeport. Keep in mind that to make full use of a bps high rpm hp band, engine mods/upgrades can add up to 1k in parts and machineing to the cost of a standard or sp rebuild, not to mention the carb and exhaust upgrades needed.
#7
go to nopistons and read all you can. play with the mockups of the engine to understand how the ports work, then just get the streetport templates from RB. it's your first time. don't be greedy!
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#8
Originally Posted by nick812
damn i hate nopistions.com but ok i ll go over there and take a look.
Other than hands on experience, I learned a lot more about engine building and porting there than on the Club.
Originally Posted by diabolical1
go to nopistons and read all you can. play with the mockups of the engine to understand how the ports work, then just get the streetport templates from RB. it's your first time. don't be greedy!
#10
Originally Posted by trochoid
Ah yes, but greed is the name of the game now isn't it!
#11
yeah , engine life isnt much of a priority, the original Idea was just to use it for one race.. I would like it to last longer if possible.. my friend bought a done out WRX .. and talks it up constantly, I would love to see the look on his face as a 20+ year old car that was saved from a scrapyard shows him up... well maybe not , but at least puts up a fight on the strip
#14
Sure it can, i think i have video of it, I just have to find the damn tape. If it's just a bolt-on WRX than a gigantic streetport with a weber should be adequate, but even a big streetport deserves all the extra goodies like hardened stationary gears, three window bearings, etc. Depending on what you do for apex seals, if you don't beat him then, put a 100-shot on it and call it a day. One of the WRX's i beat was supposedly boosting 18-19 lbs (well out of that turbos efficiency range) and i beat him by 2 cars or so, and i don't have an aggresive port by any means, AND i still use the nikki carb!
#16
well, I got the engine apart , there is alot of crap in the coolant passages.. also one of the apex seals is stuck .. what is the best way to clean the housings and rotors without damaging anything?
#17
remove all seals and springs, then soak them in carburetor cleaner or kerosene. after a day or so the surface carbon usually comes off with 600-grit wet paper. use an old side seal to clean out the side seal and corner seal slots.
#18
Send the housings, irons, front cover and water pump housing to your local machine shop and let them hot tank 'em. Be sure to pull the front and rear oil pressure regulators before hand. Make sure they understand they cannot ding the edges of the housings where they mate to the irons. I wouldn't let them hot tank the rotors, the apex grooves and edges dent too easily.
You can buy a gallon of Berrymans Carb Cleaner and soak the rotors. All of the carbon must be removed from all of the seal grooves. Remove the oil control rings before soaking if you aren't replacing the oil control o-rings.
You can buy a gallon of Berrymans Carb Cleaner and soak the rotors. All of the carbon must be removed from all of the seal grooves. Remove the oil control rings before soaking if you aren't replacing the oil control o-rings.
#20
Hot tanking is for iron engine blocks. I've never had to hot tank any rotary stuff, and I've probably seen it all at this point.
Hey, if I don't have to, you don't have to. Just cutting one more step out of the rebuild process.
Hey, if I don't have to, you don't have to. Just cutting one more step out of the rebuild process.
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