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Alternator - from scratch wiring (internally regulated)

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Old 12-02-03, 05:08 PM
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Alternator - from scratch wiring (internally regulated)

Okay. I've put all the wiring together for my racecar. Put in DLIDFIS, ignition and fuel pump switches, independent starter switch, even lights with the switches. The entire stock harness is long gone.
After I finally got the engine to start, I noticed a flaw in my wiring harness design. I forgot about the alternator T connector. (The wiring harness piece on the back.)
Is this connector necessary? I hear that it engages the internal regulator and without it, the alt won't charge since the regulator never comes on.
However, upon searching, I've seen posts where ppl say their alts are charging without it. They simple rev up a bit and this turns on the regulator. Just wondering if this is the case for all mazda alts, internally or externally regulated.
IF it is needed how do I wire it up? Pretty simple I presume? Ground one side of the connector and run a +12v from the IGN switch to the other?
Yes, I COULD check to see if it actually does charge next time I start it, but the car is out at a friend's shop right now and I can only work on it when I'm away from school. Which isn't very often. Anyways, any info appreciated. thx.
Old 12-04-03, 10:18 AM
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Anybody?
Old 12-04-03, 01:05 PM
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Its pretty simple really... I could go into detail, but I explained something similar in this thread. Check out steps 3-6 in my first post. That explains the general setup.

You need to have these hooked up to the alternator, because the alternator uses electromagnets. The alternator has the juice to create its own magnectic field, once it starts, but you have to provide the initial current that turns it on.
Old 12-04-03, 09:49 PM
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So, it needs to look like this? What's a part number for a diode I can use? Any small radio shack one work?


Last edited by jayroc; 12-04-03 at 09:51 PM.
Old 12-05-03, 12:31 AM
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an IN4001 from radio shack will work fine .
Thats what i used (because I had one ).
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