Alternator belt concern?
#26
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Y'all are great, thanks for the help here. Yes, I got it moved to the correct location and when I put in the washers on the bar that holds the other side, it looks straight.
The stat was a 180 degree, it does have the little jiggle thing. I try to post a link to the one installed.
The stat was a 180 degree, it does have the little jiggle thing. I try to post a link to the one installed.
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I cant get a pic off the autozone web site. ITs the fail safe stat, with the seal. Had a black rubber seal that wrapped around it. This made it too big to seat properly on the housing. When I put the cover back on, it literally left about a 1/8 inch gap between the housing and the cover. I did not try to screw it down the that much gap.
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I dont know on the jiggle pin in the 12 o'clock position. I think I just dropped it in and put the little bar across the stat in the horizonal position. I dont know where the jiggle was. How much will that matter?
Damn, I wish I knew more about cars!!!!!!!!!
Damn, I wish I knew more about cars!!!!!!!!!
#33
the idea of the jiggle pin is that it allows trapped air in the system to escape and permits the venting of air from the system when filling the system with coolant. so, with that said, air will rise and will need to go to the highest point of release, hence teh 12 o'clock position. i have enver installed a t-stat with the jiggle pin valve anywhere other than the 12 o'clock position so i dont know what adverse effects if any, will take place. i was just taught that when replacing the t-stat that the pin goes to the 12 o'clock position..
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I pulled the cover yerterday afternoon to check (would drive me crazy if I didnt) and by luck, it was sitting straight up. Thanks for the tip, I will remember this in the future.
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Okay, I think I have success with the water pump, housing, and stat. I have however developed a clicking/tapping noise that sounds like its coming from the air pump, or that area, any ideas what it could be?
Could I just take the air pump off and plug the holes and get the belt suggested in the rats nest removal directions? Or would that cause me other problems without completing the whole thing?
Could I just take the air pump off and plug the holes and get the belt suggested in the rats nest removal directions? Or would that cause me other problems without completing the whole thing?
#36
If you don't have to worry about emissions you might as well go through the rats nest removal process as it greatly simplifies the engine bay...
Dave: that makes sense, I always pull a heater hose while filling coolant to allow air to escape, never had any problems, but it does make sense...
Dave: that makes sense, I always pull a heater hose while filling coolant to allow air to escape, never had any problems, but it does make sense...
#37
the biggst thing with removing the air pump is that you must remove the main converter as well, as the air pump not only supplies fresh air to it for emission but also to cool it as well. without the air pump, you converter will melt itself. last time i checked, a new oem converter form the dealer for a GSL-SE we $2300.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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