White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

Y'all are great, thanks for the help here. Yes, I got it moved to the correct location and when I put in the washers on the bar that holds the other side, it looks straight.

The stat was a 180 degree, it does have the little jiggle thing. I try to post a link to the one installed.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

did you make sure the jiggle pin was pointing towards the 12 o'clock position when installed?

n0ferz

iTrader: (4)

thank you jeezus

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

I cant get a pic off the autozone web site. ITs the fail safe stat, with the seal. Had a black rubber seal that wrapped around it. This made it too big to seat properly on the housing. When I put the cover back on, it literally left about a 1/8 inch gap between the housing and the cover. I did not try to screw it down the that much gap.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

I dont know on the jiggle pin in the 12 o'clock position. I think I just dropped it in and put the little bar across the stat in the horizonal position. I dont know where the jiggle was. How much will that matter?

Damn, I wish I knew more about cars!!!!!!!!!

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

Hey, should I pull it and check? Is it important enough that its in that position?

I dont know if I have enough of the RTV left to put it back on.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

I've never paid any attention to where the jiggle pin went, I wasn't aware it had to be at 12 o'clock Dave, thats interesting... Guess I must have lucked out cause its always worked fine lol

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the idea of the jiggle pin is that it allows trapped air in the system to escape and permits the venting of air from the system when filling the system with coolant. so, with that said, air will rise and will need to go to the highest point of release, hence teh 12 o'clock position. i have enver installed a t-stat with the jiggle pin valve anywhere other than the 12 o'clock position so i dont know what adverse effects if any, will take place. i was just taught that when replacing the t-stat that the pin goes to the 12 o'clock position..

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

I pulled the cover yerterday afternoon to check (would drive me crazy if I didnt) and by luck, it was sitting straight up. Thanks for the tip, I will remember this in the future.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

Okay, I think I have success with the water pump, housing, and stat. I have however developed a clicking/tapping noise that sounds like its coming from the air pump, or that area, any ideas what it could be?

Could I just take the air pump off and plug the holes and get the belt suggested in the rats nest removal directions? Or would that cause me other problems without completing the whole thing?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

If you don't have to worry about emissions you might as well go through the rats nest removal process as it greatly simplifies the engine bay...
Dave: that makes sense, I always pull a heater hose while filling coolant to allow air to escape, never had any problems, but it does make sense...

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the biggst thing with removing the air pump is that you must remove the main converter as well, as the air pump not only supplies fresh air to it for emission but also to cool it as well. without the air pump, you converter will melt itself. last time i checked, a new oem converter form the dealer for a GSL-SE we $2300.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

I dont want to do that then. So what cools it when you remove the rats nest?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yeah... Why the OEM converters are so expensive is beyond me... I can't imagine they've actually sold one in years. I just run Catco cats I get off ebay on my FB's... So far they've all passed inspection with them lol