almost time to paint
#1
almost time to paint
As the title says I'm getting ready to paint my SE and I have some questions. First off I want to undercoat the car first and I was thinking that I would wire wheel the bottom real well, spray a rust inhibitor (any ideas on a good one) and then maybe spray the bottom and wheel wells with a coating of truck bed coating. it's cheaper by the gallon than undercoating and it's more durable, is that a good idea? Also I'm changing the color from a brown to like a gunmetal gray. it's a pain to change colors on a car because of things like the door jams, inside the doors, and under the hood. Is there some kind of chemical paint stripper that I could use in these places to make sanding them a little easier? thanks for all help
#2
Well, I'll start by saying that using paint stripper etc isn't a great idea unless the paint is badly chipped etc. The less bare metal you expose the better your new paint will stick. I know its a lot of work, but sanding the old paint down creating a good base is the only way to go.
As for the rust por15 works pretty well, but its not the end all. Sandblasing the rust off is really the only way to go. truck bed coating works well from what I've heard, I use 3m undercoating in the spray cans and it works well.
I've found that body work is one of those things you learn as you go along so just start workign on it, if it doesn't come out right sand it off and do it again. I've done a few cars, and am in the middle of building another one, so if you have any questions feel free to pm me or whatever.
good luck
As for the rust por15 works pretty well, but its not the end all. Sandblasing the rust off is really the only way to go. truck bed coating works well from what I've heard, I use 3m undercoating in the spray cans and it works well.
I've found that body work is one of those things you learn as you go along so just start workign on it, if it doesn't come out right sand it off and do it again. I've done a few cars, and am in the middle of building another one, so if you have any questions feel free to pm me or whatever.
good luck
#4
How serious are you about stripping the underside of the body? A wire wheel will take forever. The undercoating can be softened with mineral spitits/paint thinner, then scraped off. It's a time consuming job.
I have some pics floating around of an underbody I sandblasted bare, then coated with a 2 part epoxy and truckbed liner. The bedliner works well, as long as the surface is prepped correctly and has a good sealer underneath it.
I have some pics floating around of an underbody I sandblasted bare, then coated with a 2 part epoxy and truckbed liner. The bedliner works well, as long as the surface is prepped correctly and has a good sealer underneath it.
#5
Being in Missouri you know how important undercoating is to us salt belt guys. there is some rust under the car already so I figured that stripping the whole thing would make the most sense. what do you think? it's not a car that I will be driving in winter but still...cars like to rust in iowa. If the stripper is a bad idea then I just have to man up and sand all the crappy places like door jams and such? boo
#7
From my experience, there is a lot more rust than what one can see. Most of it's hidden. If you plan on keeping the car long term and spending the money for a decent paint job, then by all means do the entire underneath of the body to preserve the investment in the rest of it.
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#9
Just finished my Rex.. let me tell you.. painting sucks. Its extremely time consuming, but the results are worth it. This was my first shot at it and I'll never paint in my garage again.
The neighbors love me
http://joe-racer.com/Race_Car_Build_-_Overhauled.php
The neighbors love me
http://joe-racer.com/Race_Car_Build_-_Overhauled.php
#15
A couple things:
1) Once you get the bottom stripped with the wire wheel (good idea BTW), prime it with epoxy primer (PPG is the best IMO) before undercoating. It's the best "rust inhibitor". In fact use it on everything after sanding.
2) They make a bonding clear that you *may* be able to use in the door jambs, & under the hood & trunk. You'll want to THROUGHLY clean it with Wax & Grease remover - THREE TIMES. Check a spot somewhere you can't see like under the doors by wiping it on with a rag to see if it softens the paint. If it does then all you'll have to do is spray a light coat of it on the jambs before painting (read the instructions). A tech sheet should be available at the jobber where you buy it (for the paint too).
3) Use base/clear: it will last *much* longer than single stage paint, & is eaiser to work with.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Scientists say we only use 20% of our brains. But if they're only using 20%, how would they know?
1) Once you get the bottom stripped with the wire wheel (good idea BTW), prime it with epoxy primer (PPG is the best IMO) before undercoating. It's the best "rust inhibitor". In fact use it on everything after sanding.
2) They make a bonding clear that you *may* be able to use in the door jambs, & under the hood & trunk. You'll want to THROUGHLY clean it with Wax & Grease remover - THREE TIMES. Check a spot somewhere you can't see like under the doors by wiping it on with a rag to see if it softens the paint. If it does then all you'll have to do is spray a light coat of it on the jambs before painting (read the instructions). A tech sheet should be available at the jobber where you buy it (for the paint too).
3) Use base/clear: it will last *much* longer than single stage paint, & is eaiser to work with.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Scientists say we only use 20% of our brains. But if they're only using 20%, how would they know?
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