Aftermarket Carbs?
#1
Aftermarket Carbs?
So, basically, we've rebuilt my '79 Nikki twice in the past year, and it's getting pretty ugly to deal with.
We've been toying with the idea of aftermarket carbs, but any that are "designed" for the rotary are a little
out of budget, and professional rebuilds in town would run 600-700 dollars. Does anyone have any
low-cost solutions? We have a quadrajet from an '80s chev, and some '60s dual-port volkswagen carbs... any ideas?
Thanks
We've been toying with the idea of aftermarket carbs, but any that are "designed" for the rotary are a little
out of budget, and professional rebuilds in town would run 600-700 dollars. Does anyone have any
low-cost solutions? We have a quadrajet from an '80s chev, and some '60s dual-port volkswagen carbs... any ideas?
Thanks
#2
Well, first question is why did you have to rebuild the carb twice? Did you rebuild the carb to fix an issue? Was the issue still there after rebuilding? What was the issue in the first place? Are you sure that the carb is the source of this issue?
Anyway, I was just curious as to what would drive you to seek a replacement carb. Here's a couple of options you should consider, both by a forum member named Sterling.
a. You can send your carb to him and he'll perform a standard rebuild on it for a hell of a lot less than six hundred bones.
b. You can purchase one of his modified carbs for half the price of an aftermarket carb. It will not only be cheaper, but it will also work with your current manifold so you won't have to spend money on an aftermarket intake either. And, it will not only work with your current manifold, but it will provide more potential horsepower than you can shake a stick at. (can you tell I really like my Sterling?).
Anyway, check it out as part of your research:
www.sterlingmetalworks.com
Good luck...
.
Anyway, I was just curious as to what would drive you to seek a replacement carb. Here's a couple of options you should consider, both by a forum member named Sterling.
a. You can send your carb to him and he'll perform a standard rebuild on it for a hell of a lot less than six hundred bones.
b. You can purchase one of his modified carbs for half the price of an aftermarket carb. It will not only be cheaper, but it will also work with your current manifold so you won't have to spend money on an aftermarket intake either. And, it will not only work with your current manifold, but it will provide more potential horsepower than you can shake a stick at. (can you tell I really like my Sterling?).
Anyway, check it out as part of your research:
www.sterlingmetalworks.com
Good luck...
.
#3
um... yeah. it just doesn't get any gas. period. It runs extremely well if you're spraying starter fluid. It's getting really good fuel pressure, and it fills the chambers, but stops somewhere after that. It only runs so-so right after rebuild, and just slowly goes down hill from there.
#4
I heard he's not doing carbs anymore. I think Jeff20b said something about this. His webpage is down and is not responding to e-mails too??? Sterling carb FTW though. Sigh, i wish i had one.
#5
No, I believe the forum is down but the website is still up. He was on this forum just a couple of days ago too. The forum is down while he rethinks the direction it will take. But as far as I know, the carb business is still going strong. Er, at least I think so, but maybe not.
Anyway, kickass carbs if you can get one. Check the for sale section too, they'll show up there once in a great while too.
Now, based on your description of the issue, it sounds like the problem should have been corrected with a rebuild. Were the jets removed from the float bowls? It almost sounds like the float needles are stuck, but if it's been rebuilt twice I would doubt that could still be the cause. Best of luck to you.....
.
Anyway, kickass carbs if you can get one. Check the for sale section too, they'll show up there once in a great while too.
Now, based on your description of the issue, it sounds like the problem should have been corrected with a rebuild. Were the jets removed from the float bowls? It almost sounds like the float needles are stuck, but if it's been rebuilt twice I would doubt that could still be the cause. Best of luck to you.....
.
#7
Depends on what size dual port VW carbs you have? On a stock port 12a you can probably get away with using a 44 or even a 40. You would have to rejet the carb for a rotary and get an intake manifold for a weber IDF setup. Search on here for weber and IDF and see what folks have said in the past. Also check the Other Rotary and Normally Aspirated sections as well for tips.
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#8
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Please email me again. Something must've happened because I always answer my emails.
I shut down the forum for the reason Kentetsu stated. I did announce elsewhere that I was "taking a break" from new orders so I could catch up on some that I have waiting. I have since taken a few orders from people with the understanding that I won't be finished with them for quite a while.
It sounds to me like your float bowl solenoid is unplugged.
I shut down the forum for the reason Kentetsu stated. I did announce elsewhere that I was "taking a break" from new orders so I could catch up on some that I have waiting. I have since taken a few orders from people with the understanding that I won't be finished with them for quite a while.
It sounds to me like your float bowl solenoid is unplugged.
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Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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09-16-18 07:16 PM