85gsl-se brakes
11-26-02, 04:32 PM
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85gsl-se brakes
Just picked up my 85gslse this past Sunday. My dream car is finally home. Everying is stock and has only 65,000 miles. I am planning to change all the fluids in the car. I have some questions for you experts regarding to this car. 1. Does any one know if there is a sequence in bleeding the brakes? 2. Any comment on using synthetic oil as the manual transmission fluid?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
11-26-02, 04:37 PM
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general rule of thumb when bleeding brakes is to start with the furthest away brake, and then move to the closest... so the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front, and then finishing with the bleeder right on the master cylinder...
Or at least that's what I was told and have done for the last few years.
Synthetic oil in the tranny is a great idea... it tends to make it quieter, smoother, and shift smoother.
Jeff
Or at least that's what I was told and have done for the last few years.
Synthetic oil in the tranny is a great idea... it tends to make it quieter, smoother, and shift smoother.
Jeff
11-26-02, 05:06 PM
#3
first of all ... CONGRATULATIONS!
on the brakes, all i will say is if ever in doubt about your ability, just say screw it and let someone that knows how do it. the brakes are the one system you don't want to learn how to fix by trail and error ...
on the synthetic lube, it's great idea not only for the tranny, but also for the rear end.
65K, huh? well ... enjoy, man!
on the brakes, all i will say is if ever in doubt about your ability, just say screw it and let someone that knows how do it. the brakes are the one system you don't want to learn how to fix by trail and error ...
on the synthetic lube, it's great idea not only for the tranny, but also for the rear end.
65K, huh? well ... enjoy, man!
11-26-02, 05:11 PM
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Thanks for the quick update. Looks like I'll be busy on Thanksgiving day. By the way, is there a specific or favroit synthetic oil you like to use for the manual transmission?
Jeff
Jeff
11-26-02, 05:25 PM
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Drop a K&N air filter into the stock box for quicker response, and seriously consider replacing the stock exhaust with a Racing Beat header, presilencer, and muffler - you WILL be amazed at the difference in power output with just a change of exhaust.
Is that CA as in Canada or Cali?
Is that CA as in Canada or Cali?
11-26-02, 05:34 PM
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Buy a "one-man" bleeding kit and the special brake-bleeder wrenches (8mm or 10mm, I can't remember). If there's a choice between two sizes of kit, get the larger. It's a long and messy process of opening the bleeder screws one at a time slightly (if it's rusted and you break if off you are so screwed), and draining out the old fluid. The tricky part is not letting any air into the system, or you will have no brakes. The bleeder kit has clear hoses so you can watch for bubbles as the fluid comes out - you pump the pedal, run back to the lines, watch, run back to the pedal, etc.
The rules:
1) One at a time, farthest away from master cylinder 1st.
2) Use the special bleeder wrenches available at the store where you got the bleeder kit. Open bleeder just enough for fluid to flow, any more and air can seep back in around the friggin threads and drive you insane.
3) As you drain, keep adding new fluid incrementaly to keep the master cyl resevoir topped off.
4) All bubbles, even tiny ones (bring a flashlight) must go.
5) The old fluid is dark and full of crap, the new is golden clear. Run new fluid through the whole system. Once it's clean I usually rinse the crap out of the bleeding kit's bottle with a little brake cleaner, then bleed more clean fluid out and dump it back into the master cyl. ABSOLUTELY NO BUBBLES IS THE FINAL GOAL.
6) Don't get that fluid on anything you like, such as the car's paint, nice clothes, pets, girls, etc.
7) Test the car at extremely low speeds far from traffic. You'll be able to tell if you have air in the lines, the pedal will be all mushy and the car won't slow as well or at all.
The rules:
1) One at a time, farthest away from master cylinder 1st.
2) Use the special bleeder wrenches available at the store where you got the bleeder kit. Open bleeder just enough for fluid to flow, any more and air can seep back in around the friggin threads and drive you insane.
3) As you drain, keep adding new fluid incrementaly to keep the master cyl resevoir topped off.
4) All bubbles, even tiny ones (bring a flashlight) must go.
5) The old fluid is dark and full of crap, the new is golden clear. Run new fluid through the whole system. Once it's clean I usually rinse the crap out of the bleeding kit's bottle with a little brake cleaner, then bleed more clean fluid out and dump it back into the master cyl. ABSOLUTELY NO BUBBLES IS THE FINAL GOAL.
6) Don't get that fluid on anything you like, such as the car's paint, nice clothes, pets, girls, etc.
7) Test the car at extremely low speeds far from traffic. You'll be able to tell if you have air in the lines, the pedal will be all mushy and the car won't slow as well or at all.
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11-26-02, 07:26 PM
#8
Originally posted by Manntis
Drop a K&N air filter into the stock box for quicker response, and seriously consider replacing the stock exhaust with a Racing Beat header, presilencer, and muffler - you WILL be amazed at the difference in power output with just a change of exhaust.
Is that CA as in Canada or Cali?
Drop a K&N air filter into the stock box for quicker response, and seriously consider replacing the stock exhaust with a Racing Beat header, presilencer, and muffler - you WILL be amazed at the difference in power output with just a change of exhaust.
Is that CA as in Canada or Cali?
11-26-02, 09:04 PM
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about the brake bleeding.......
i use Speed-Bleeders.... HELLUVA easier time bleedin brakes. it just has a ball working as a one way valve... ya know, like the thing that you attach the removable fuel pressure guage to, that fitting (im an idiot i cant think of the name of those). anyway you know what i mean lol. but its a lot easier than wrenches and **** ill tell ya that. some people claim they dont trust these cuz they let some air in, but ive always used them and i know many who also do and theyve never posed a problem with air or anything.
--eric
i use Speed-Bleeders.... HELLUVA easier time bleedin brakes. it just has a ball working as a one way valve... ya know, like the thing that you attach the removable fuel pressure guage to, that fitting (im an idiot i cant think of the name of those). anyway you know what i mean lol. but its a lot easier than wrenches and **** ill tell ya that. some people claim they dont trust these cuz they let some air in, but ive always used them and i know many who also do and theyve never posed a problem with air or anything.
--eric
11-26-02, 09:20 PM
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can't say for certain that a K&N will add horsepower, but I noticed an increase in throttle response. When you step on it the car needs more fuel and air, and with a K&N it gets the air NOW.
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