84RX7'nSTi

So what is the deal with leaking oil coolers on the '84-'85 SE's?

Is it cracks around the endtanks that leaks? Is it the oil cooler lines? What the heck is it?

Obviously mine is leaking. I am able to buy a brand new cooler from Mazda at a reasonable price (which is still overly expensive). But the problem is, will this be the last time I will need to replace it? I was also thinking of adding the RB steel braided lines to go with it. Is this a good path to take?

I know many folks here get there oil coolers just welded up. And that is a good idea based on how expensive these things are to replace!

I just would like to know if buying a new cooler is a good route? And if 3 years down the road I will have to re-visit this beautiful experience?

Is there any good aftermarket oil cooler solutions?

Thanks,

Mike

Alex-7

Yeah they crack around the fitting.

How much does mazda charge for a new one (mine leaks too)?????


I've got the RB braided lines. I like 'em.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I had mine (on my '79) repaired. I found a guy that was good with aluminum welding and he fixed it up...about $45. Just make sure that whoever fixes it is smart enough to put a steel fitting in the hole before welding...this will keep the threads nice and clean.

Rich

smnc

I'm toying with the idea of a Perma-Cool oil-cooler...
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...view=sku&RC=10
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Contents.html

84RX7'nSTi

Around the fitting. When I was under the car taking a look, that is what I suspected.

Mazda Trix sells them for $475.84, which is cheaper than dealership retail. I can buy one for a bit cheaper than what Mazda Trix is selling them for. However, that is still a bunch of money! Then add the RB braided lines on top of that, Holy Cow! $$$

Mike

84RX7'nSTi

64mgb, That would definately be the cheapest solution.........and probably the most intelligent. But, I'm not always smart?

SMNC, which cooler are you considering. I was thinking about aftermarket coolers because they are not as expensive as the factory. Plus, they are more readily available. Fitment is my main concern. Is there an aftermarket cooler that will install in the factory location, or were you thinking about moving the cooler elsewhere?

Mike

ratboy

iTrader: (1)

I had mine repaired (welded) like 6 years and 60,000 mi ago. The stock lines finally blew ~ 1 year ago but the cooler still does its job - keeps the engine temps down and the oil in the engine! My mechanic didnt tell me how much a new one was but now im sure glad he offered to have it welded.

Zyrano

i was just looking through this website the other day, don't know would it work for an se though?

http://www.iscracing.net/new%20products.htm

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

The thread bosses on mine were so bad that they couldn't be welded up to a 'normal' state (i.e. so I could thread in the regular steel fittings.) Someone had previously "repaired" it by flooding JB-Weld all over the place as well as in to the threads so they were split REALLY bad.

What I ended up doing (after grinding off all the friggin' JB-Weld ) was getting two aluminum 16mmx1.5 to AN-10 fittings (summitracing.com EAR-9919FFJERL) and having them welded up into the bosses, along with welding around them to seal up the cracks. Of course, this means I can't replace those fittings without cutting off and replacing the bosses - but as long as I don't act like a gorilla with the cooler lines it should be a good long-term fix.

I also got a set of the braided lines (which are AN-10, hence that spec for the fittings above) and put it all together - looks good! More importantly - WORKS good and costed a helluva lot less than $500

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

I'm almost positive that 2nd-gen cooler mount kit won't work if you've got an a/c condenser up front.

84RX7'nSTi

Does anybody know what causes the fittings on the cooler to leak in the first place?

I am glad to see that some don't have a re-accuring problem after the fittings are welded up.

Mike

Unsupa

iTrader: (2)

overtightening..

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

From what I've seen, mainly overtightening (sometimes made worse by omitting the crush washers) when replacing cooler lines.

I also think there's generally extra stress there from vibration, especially if (when? heh) the mounts loosen up or break.

smnc

It'd work on an -SE... we have that same bar up there

And I don't think the A/C would be a problem. My GSL-SE had a/c, and this cooler looks like it would sit lower...

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

I wasn't sure enough to spend the money in order to find out

smnc

I'm leaning towards this one:
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&CP=1&part=PRM-301&N=400006%204294924500%204294839034%20429488884 7%204294866101&Ntt=&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns=P_SRE_Displ ayPrice|1

Not sure yet tho.

It should fit no prob. in front of the rad, but of course will need some sort of mounting fab'd up.

The other option is:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=KeywordSearch
or
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=KeywordSearch
But lotsa$$ and probably overkill.

I gotta do a bit more research before I decide

smnc

True... e-mail and ask...?

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

I actually called about it, but the guy was swamped with work and too busy to really talk about it or take a pic of an installed one - so for now, I passed on 'em. Might get a set in the future just for ishts and giggles in order to check fitment.

skrewloose78

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT


heres a 2nd gen cooler on ebay for a decent price.

Aviator 902S

Actually the problem is overtightening, but this overtightening is always necessary if you cheap out and try to re-use the old crush washers rather than spring the couple of bucks for new ones. The old ones no longer seal properly unless you crank in more torque on the wrench, and the end result is as predictable as the likelihood of Paris Hilton exposing herself in public again.