The85Rex

iTrader: (1)

I have a 85 Rx7 12a with a 450 holy Im having a few problems

First off i got the car a year or so ago and when i got it the water seals was gone so it smoked like a white smoke so i got another engine it ran when pulled it ( $200 bucks cheao) so i put the engine in and then the carb float was stickin a few days later so i put the 450 holy and the intake on it from the other engine and it fired right up but when i drive it. when i come to a stop light or what ever somtimes it will idle ruff and stall then fload out i had a few people look and tune the carb same thing over and over. If i sit at idle and pump the break the idle will jump 500 rpms not sure if i have a vacume line backwards or what. Can anyone help me out.

Also anyone know any shops in or around the Michigan area id like to have my other 12a rebuilt and ported.






Car Mods 450cfm Holy 4 Barrel, Racing Beat Intake, Ractive Exaust.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Possible bad power brake booster. Sounds like its a vacuum leak for sure and
since pumping the brakes seems to help it I'm thinking the booster may be
bad.

Heres a dignostic about 1/2 way down the page:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/pwrsteer.htm

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

is the carb a dubble pumper? i know someone had a problem with that at one time it was too much gas at idle for the stock 12a. when the break booster was pumped it took air draw from the carb and less gas was introduced to the engine. but again this is just off memory from a thread long ago.

The85Rex

iTrader: (1)

Im not sure of the exact model of the carb but i tried to look it up and as close as i could get is a holy lowrider avenger dont beleave thats a double pumper ill look into it and alos i check vacuum pressure its is at 17 and 18 jumps back and forth not fast tho takes time

I checked out the Carb and these are the numbers i gathered 1850 - 9 right underneath was 2015 then one a difrent part was 11761 not sure what number to search for but i googled it and as close as i could get was a 650 cfm now i was told it was a 450 maybe someone can figure it out and let me know thanks

Anyone know of a carb that will bolt on to the setup i have?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

The holley from racing beat is a 465 cfm carb with their modifications. That 390
might work but to get it perfect for a rotary might take some time.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Stock fuel pump barely suffices for the Nikki. The Holley needs more volume and 6 psi. Time for a new pump before you go looking for a carb.

The85Rex

iTrader: (1)

Alright im thinking about ordering this one http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm

Mallory 4070 fuel pump Let me know what you think

Kentetsu

Honestly, your best bet might be to find a used stock carb, and rebuild it. Getting a Holley carb that isn't a Racing Beat Holley car to run right on a rotary can be very difficult.

That issue with it flooding out while turning is a well documented problem related to the orientation of the floats inside the carb.







.

The85Rex

iTrader: (1)

Ok ordered a rebuild kit for the nikki and i called jegs today found out he holley is a 600 so thats my issue auto zone had the nikki kit for 25 bucks they had to order it for me so im going to look for some threads on the steps to take i never done this wish me luck

Ok so i started to break down the nikki and come to find out it was recently rebuilt!!!! so i noticed that one of the floats dont open all the way and it sticks once in a while also it is not straight like the right one its kinda kicked to the right can this cause it to flood? if so that was my issue why i took the carb off in the first place it was flooding so can i bend it and fix it then put it all back together all the gaskets are in great shape

I was using a good thread some guy made it and now i can find i searched all day had the carb off and showed every step of removing the rats nest i just need to know what vacumelines to use .

Can someone show me pictures of where the vacuum lines go on a stripped nikki i think i have somthin backwards i read alot of things just need pictuers i cant understand it lol

Kentetsu

Sounds like you've just found your issue. Before you start bending anything, make sure that the float is hanging properly and wasn't just installed wrong.

A great source for info on the Nikki is www.sterlingmetalworks.com

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

What happened to the links I sent you the other day?

Kentetsu

I have only one vacuum line running to my carb base. It is the vacuum advance line, and is hooked up to either the nipple farthest forward, or the next one back (can't remember which off the top of my head).

The85Rex

iTrader: (1)

Alright i have a major issue Rebuilt my Stick nikki carb and well i have MAJOR Flooding going on i set the floats exactly like the directions said float Level 5/8'' float drop 2'' its exactly on the dot cant get any closer the solenoid is working as well its clicking Been working on this for 2 days anyone have some kinda trick i can try also i removed rats nest all that crap is gone im stuck please help

Kentetsu

Fresh rebuilds often have a problem with the needles not seating properly, which results in overfilling of the float bowls. Sometimes this can be "fixed" by banging on the carb to shake them loose. Sometimes you have to pull the carb apart and rough up the needles with a little piece of emory cloth. Something to do with the finish they put on them that causes this.

The85Rex

iTrader: (1)

Ok come to find out after alot of hours messing with it that whoo ever rebuilt the carb before bent the whole thing out of wack so i got the carb issues fixed i think... only had it running for about 30 minutes or so then my positive wire on my battery melted..!!!! so while iw as trien to figure this out found out my dizzy cap melted as well so i put on another used on i had from old engine and the car still wont run Think im going to upgrade the ignition system anyone know of a good one to use for stock build? also know why my wire melted? and fried everything out?

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

a bad ground can cause a lot of issues like that if your ingniters probally fried when the cap roasted if you need any parts let me know you can have what you need no charge. i have a parts car that is needing to get plucked when all the parts are off it im gunna cage it and race it so have at it!

Kentetsu

Melting the positive battery cable is a very bad thing. lol. That means that you have a hot wire connecting to a ground somewhere. Tracking down things like that can be very easy, or damned near impossible. You'll need to fix this before you do anything else.

Good luck.

The85Rex

iTrader: (1)

Got it fixed thanks to man in back he gave me a ton of stuff for an intake i had and he needed so i got all that sorted out but now im still not running yet. here are the symptoms

I will try to start it and the car will crank crank then fire fire about to start and then crank crank crank about to start and crank crank crank. it wants to start then it just gives up.

I checked all the plug wires all getting spark.
Plugs are new my second set are new and put them in and nothing.
Checked fuses. all are good
The carb is getting gas because if i crank it to much it will flood out.
Check the compression pulled the top plug on eachside one at a time and cranked it slowly got 3 strong pulses.

The only thing i can think of is the timing and i have no idea how to set it but then again the car ran but like **** with the 600 holley on it and i never messed witht he timing just changed the cap on the dizzy never unbolted it and changed it also could it be the ignitors acting up? i would change it but not sure how to set the timing so would like to know if that can be the prob before i get in over my head with timing issues as well.

Kentetsu

Dump a couple of ounces of seafoam down the carb and see if it will start. That will get it going if it is simply flooded. If not;

1. Make sure all plug wires are going where they are supposed to.
2. Make sure the dizzy is installed correctly (search and you will find a procedure for this). Do you have a timing light? That would make this simple to determine.
3. Inspect cap/rotor for damage or wear.

Glad Nick was able to hook you up. He's a good guy.