My dad has an old 1985 RX-7 sitting in a shed. The body isn’t really in great condition, and I have no idea what condition the engine is in. I’ve been doing some research and I know restoring it is gonna be a massive undertaking, but I’m willing to put in the effort to get it in running condition again. My only problem is I have no idea where to start, and any help at all would be greatly appreciated! (The front and rear bumper are inside the car along with a whaletail)

 

Before you try starting it, pour some marvel mystery oil down the intake, or, take out spark plugs and pump some in there (or both). This will help loosen anything that might be seized internally. After that's sat for a while soaking, take a 19mm on the front pulley and try spinning the engine. If it spins freely you can move onto the other things; oil, coolant, new plugs, replace worn/tired belts. Check for mice nests or chewing on wiring. You could try to give it some fuel and see if it fires.

Let us know how it goes!

 

The car has a lot of potential! Looks to originally be Ocean Blue Metallic, color code L6. My 85 is the same color and likely trim level (GS) based on the power mirrors and seat fabric. I bought mine in 2008 and installed a 13B from a GSL-SE. The car drives great! The color was unique to 1985 and is fairly uncommon. Here's my 85:





I would first start by cleaning the car, inside and out. Following that, I would definitely put the MMO into the engine and rotate it to start getting the internal seals freed up and lubricated.

After that, you'll need to go through the entire fuel system. Drop the tank and have it cleaned, soak and blow out the feed and return line, rebuild the carburetor, and install a new fuel filter and possibly new fuel pump. It also looks to have an aftermarket carb. This would require a fuel pressure regulator. If theres one on it, replace it with a new one. If not, be sure to install one if you plan on using that carb.

After that, it's basic restoration. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, belts, hoses, fluids, vacuum lines, tires, brakes, suspension, bulbs, trim etc. All while you're in there, check for rust and rodent damage. The cleaneing that I mentioned above is VERY important. It will help you to better find issues and ensure that you're not working in filth.

Did your dad tell you any of the car's history?

 

Oh, you have your work cut out for you! Get ready to get dirty and reach deep into your financial resourses. Chances are you will need new clutch and brake master and slave cylinders. The gas tank must be drained and bore scopped for rust and lines flushed out. And, a hot button issue for me - drain the old oil first best done on a hot day. Cold or not that old oil and filter has to come out. MMO is a great idea before anything is turned. Squirt some in each spark plug opening. Replace with clean oil, then when you get it running, warm and drain again. Oil is cheap, engines are not.

Those jack stands are not placed in the best possible position. Looks like a late change. According to the tires, right front especially it was sitting on them for years. I would pump them up and roll it out and wash it being careful as the windows have been removed. Hit that interior with a vacuum and every cleaner known to man.

Have the right attitude. I WILL restore this car to running condition despite the labor and the cost, no half-way measures. If you can't - sell it to someone who can. Wish I was closer, I would love to take it off your hands.

This '84 GSL-SE about like your's when I got it. After months, brakes, clutch, oil, fuel tank, interior mostly done. Great compression but I still have a long way to go.








"Oil is cheap, engines are not."

 

My dad has owned 3 FB RX-7s, he bought this one in 2006 to be his project car. Sadly he was quickly running out of money and interest in continuing the project. He put it in our shed and never planned to work on it again. He drives a 2020 MX-5 now, but he decided to help me with this project since he's a lot more experienced with the car than I am.

Yesterday I vacuumed and wiped and picked out all the trash from the interior. Today we're getting the MMO and hopefully getting the engine turning. Would it be a good idea to get a battery hooked up to test everything except for the engine?

 

You'll need a battery eventually so it's not a bad idea to make sure the connections are still good, and see what works. Check your battery cables and grounds to make sure nothing has corroded and has solid connections.

 

Good advise.

I used the old battery out of my Daughters Miata for awhile before getting a new one, Group size 35? I believe. Good idea cleaning up that interior first while checking electrical connections. Fuse box under dash by the steering column, maybe it still has the cover in place. Usually quite clean but check it anyway like GtiKyle mentioned. But, do not turn the engine over until you have squirted MMO into each spark plug opening and the plugs OUT. Then only by hand with a wrench on the crank nut. Easy! Rock it a bit, a little at a time. Slow and easy until you feel it smooth, only then rotate it 360 degrees. If you feel secure momentarily check it with the starter - if the starter works. All with the plugs out. Then, plugs in check the compression. There is a procedure for this, read up on it. Crunch time. Compression PSI will let you know if it's worth saving.

Good luck.

 

Me and my dad went digging through some bins in the garage and found the center console panels. I got those put in easily. After that we tested everything electrical, both lights on the ceiling work, the clock works, the headlights pop up and also work. But now the headlights are stuck in the up position. Anyone know a possible cause and how to fix it?

 

Jiggle/cycle the headlight on/off switch on the steering column a bit. Worked for me.

 

You an also take the rubber piece of the top of the headlight motor, it pulls off. Under there is a **** you can use to manually turn the lights up and down. With the power on, if you twist the ****, the light will sometimes go back into the correct position.

 

We tried turning the engine today after letting the MMO soak since yesterday, couldn't get it to turn at all. I put more into the intake and spark plug holes, and we're gonna try again tomorrow. If is still won't turn, what should the next step be?

 

Did you use the nut on the crank shaft? 19mm socket. It may take a breaker bar, ratchet a bit to puny. Should move with moderate effort. Don't have a breaker bar? Harbor Freight has them. Or use a piece of PVC pipe on the end of your ratchet. There is no option two. If a breaker bar won't move it you may damage your starter if tried. Easy on the intake oil! Only after you get the engine to turn, run it with the starter. 5/6 second intervals until all the MMO is expelled. It will make a mess.

Is your air pump/ alternator free to rotate? You may have to loosen those belts. But you should not have to.

Good luck.

 

We used a ratchet with a 19mm, we both put a lot of force into it but it still didn't turn. The alternator and air pump rotate freely on their own.

 

Breaker bar. Big difference. Or the pipe thing. Force multiplier.

 

I use a piece of 3 foot 1 inch black pipe from Lowes. It's cheap and works great as a braker bar over the lone breaker in the picture above.

You could try something like Sea Foam instead of MMO. It helps with carbon lock. Whatever you do, you not rock the breaker or go counter clockwise. This could loosen the front pulley e-shaft bolt.

 

It will take some force but the engine will break free if it's only carbon locked. It's common for the engines to seize up if they've been sitting. MMO is a good fluid to use as is seafoam mentioned above. It may take some time to soak in and work, so I would suggest trying a couple times per day for a week or so. Its just something you'll have to be patient with unfortunately. I've had about an 85% success rate using MMO or ATF to free engines that have been sitting. I've even used a little WD40 in the mixture and it's helped. I do put the mixture in down the car and theough the spark plug holes. Wishing you the best of luck getting the engine freed up.