85 GSLSE value
#1
85 GSLSE value
Ok, so about a year ago I saw a 85 GSLSE just sitting at this company. I drive by it every day to go to the GYM. So after months of it sitting there. I decided to leave a note on the window saying that I was interested in buying the car. Last Friday the guy called me and asked if the offer was still standing. The car has sat there for over a year. The paint is faded, 4 new tires but are 1/2 flat now, and has 123k on it. It also has the passenger side fender by the bumper pushed in from a lady hitting him. the damage is only cosmetic. He told me that the reason he stopped driving the car was that it had a little sputter or something. He had taken it to the Mazda dealer here and put over 1k into it. Problem was that the problem was still there. So he stopped driving the car. I dont know if it runs. I dont want to start it there. I have read the sticky that tells me everything to do to the car before I start it. I will stick to that. So I would like to know how much $$$ you guys would pay for it.
#5
Im not sure what the dealership did to it the guy was going to get a copy of the work from them. As for the interior it is in pretty good shape. Doesnt even smell.
About the rust, None in the common areas. None that I saw.
About the rust, None in the common areas. None that I saw.
#7
Yeah, definitely pull the storage bins out. Its only 4 or 6 screws on each side. Takes only a few minutes. When I bought mines, there was a puddle of water in mines but good thing rust didn't form yet so I just dried it out.
Oh, be sure to check the spare tire compartment too. Water likes to get trapped in there.
Oh, be sure to check the spare tire compartment too. Water likes to get trapped in there.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by smnc
Pull the storage bins and check around the wheel wells...
I meet up with the guy tomorrow to check over the car all the way. We agreed on a price. I know that I will still buy it. It will take the afternoon to get all of the fluids changed and everything else done that I need to do before I start it. I will try to post pics if you guys want to see it.
Any thing else that I should check?
#11
Well I just bought it put a new battery and all of that other stuff into it. No start. It looks like it is getting no oil pressure. When you crank it the oil pressure stays at 0. It also looks like it may have a problem with the electical for the fact when you turn the air/heat on it click in the engine bay. Out of ideas.
#13
it sounds normal. i was just getting ready to check out those exact things. A rotary guy here in town told me to check the fuel and spark also.
O and it is a 84 GSl-se. I checked the title
O and it is a 84 GSl-se. I checked the title
#16
hmmm, i would put the carb on it bro, take that fuel injection off, go to www.piercemanifolds.com for more info, worth evey penny of 800 that i spent
#18
If it's the front fender you can get one new for $80 somewhere on the net (I did). I bought an 85SE for $1000 last year that was straight but faded and ran OK but leaked coolant. I also bought a REPU that hadn't run for a long time (but sat in a garage) and all I did was squirt MMO into the spark plug holes before I started it.
B
B
#19
I checked the gas today and damn was it bad. The question is can/ should I take the fuel lines off the engine. Put new gas in, then crank it to get the new gas through the lines, then connect them back up. Will that mess anything up? I am going to replace the fuel filter to be on the safe side. By the way the gas came out a little on the oranges brown side. Should I be worried about that?
Last edited by Comptech; 04-02-05 at 03:30 PM.
#20
Originally Posted by Comptech
I checked the gas today and damn was it bad. The question is can/ should I take the fuel lines off the engine. Put new gas in, then crank it to get the new gas through the lines, then connect them back up. Will that mess anything up? I am going to replace the fuel filter to be on the safe side. By the way the gas came out a little on the oranges brown side. Should I be worried about that?
Taking the fuel lines off is easy, but there's probably no need.
Pump out whatever is in there (your local parts store proably sells a cheap siphon pump), and you should be able to get the rest out when you pull the fuel filter. Fill it up with good fresh gas and crank for a while to clear whatever is left in the lines. I would probably add some good two-stroke (or even better, MMO) to the gas too, to help re-lubricate everything and improve sealing in the comustion chamber during the hard start.
BUT you should probably have the tank replaced or at least re-coated to take care of any rust inside.
#21
thanks for the info. I may just get a new tank.
As for parts that I need:
blue carpet for the hatch, cyclops light, window motors, power antena, new weather stripping for all doors & hatch, and more to come
As for parts that I need:
blue carpet for the hatch, cyclops light, window motors, power antena, new weather stripping for all doors & hatch, and more to come
#23
Originally Posted by rxseven07
WTF is a cyclops light?
Just got done with putting new fuel and filter in. Tried to crank it but nothing still. I decided to take the fuel lines off and there is no fuell in them. So how do I check that the pump is getting fuel? I dont have a volt meter which I will probably need.
#25
You can either turn the key on on prop the AFM door open (under the air filter). You should hear the fuel pump running. Another option is to install a jumper wire acrossw the two teminals in the connector with a rubber boot over it that is next to the AFM. This will cause the fuel pump to run whenever the key is in the 'ON' position.
Kent
Kent