85 gsl-se cutting out/hesitating
10-14-10 | 12:40 AM
#26
I used duct tape. Worked fine. I replaced it after each step because you'll add a solution, shake it up, let it sit, shake some more, then drain/rinse/dry/repeat.
You may may to borrow Mrs. slvrghst's hairdryer when she isn't looking to speed up the drying process (before the epoxy is applied).
The epoxy stuff can be messy, so put down a dropcloth or something in case you spill some. I got a little on the garage floor and now I have a nut that is really stuck to the concrete (haven't really tried to break it loose, but that stuff really grabs).
For the pickup assembly, I would put a WTB ad in the 1st gen classifieds on this site. There are also regional sections and you might want to check in there too (West section in your case). The SE stuff is a little harder to come by, but I'm sure you'll be able to find something.
While your at it, I would also hit the hardware store and pickup some stainless steel cap head screws (allen head) for the pickup assembly and the sender (M6X10mm is the size, I believe). These will be a lot easier to remove in the future.
You may may to borrow Mrs. slvrghst's hairdryer when she isn't looking to speed up the drying process (before the epoxy is applied).
The epoxy stuff can be messy, so put down a dropcloth or something in case you spill some. I got a little on the garage floor and now I have a nut that is really stuck to the concrete (haven't really tried to break it loose, but that stuff really grabs).
For the pickup assembly, I would put a WTB ad in the 1st gen classifieds on this site. There are also regional sections and you might want to check in there too (West section in your case). The SE stuff is a little harder to come by, but I'm sure you'll be able to find something.
While your at it, I would also hit the hardware store and pickup some stainless steel cap head screws (allen head) for the pickup assembly and the sender (M6X10mm is the size, I believe). These will be a lot easier to remove in the future.
10-14-10 | 12:59 AM
#27
Well I went ahead and ordered the pick up from the junk yard. Good idea on the screws. I can see where those may get stripped easily.
I also went ahead and ordered the Bonez high flow cat pipe because I know my cat is in bad shape and may even be clogging.
BTW I'm in Louisiana not Los Angeles. Not sure why my sig says L.A.
Thanks for the tips. I'll post when it's all back together.
I also went ahead and ordered the Bonez high flow cat pipe because I know my cat is in bad shape and may even be clogging.
BTW I'm in Louisiana not Los Angeles. Not sure why my sig says L.A.
Thanks for the tips. I'll post when it's all back together.
10-14-10 | 03:01 AM
#28
Waiting 7 days for the tank sealer to cure is absurd. Last tank I did was with Red Kote tank sealer, 24 hour cure. Do have the tank 'boiled' clean first. Last one was 40 bucks here. $75 for the pickup assembly is theft. PM me if you want a cheaper one.
10-14-10 | 06:55 AM
#29
On the M6X10, I mean that the length is 10mm. I believe the pitch is 0.7mm. Anyway, if you go to the hardware store, look for M6 with a 10mm length. That should be correct. It has been a couple years since I got some, but I'm almost 100% sure that is the correct size.
If you want to fix your location, go to the top of the page and click 'user CP'. There are some options in there to set location, user title, avatar, sig, etc. Might want to set it to 'Louisiana' or "city, LA". Having a clear location is nice because someone might see it and recommend a junkyard, shop, etc. in your area. The 1st gen guys are also real good about helping each other out with either parts or helping find a problem or turn some wrenches. So if someone lives close to you, they might be willing to help you out or bring you a part that you might need.
If you want to fix your location, go to the top of the page and click 'user CP'. There are some options in there to set location, user title, avatar, sig, etc. Might want to set it to 'Louisiana' or "city, LA". Having a clear location is nice because someone might see it and recommend a junkyard, shop, etc. in your area. The 1st gen guys are also real good about helping each other out with either parts or helping find a problem or turn some wrenches. So if someone lives close to you, they might be willing to help you out or bring you a part that you might need.
10-14-10 | 09:59 AM
#30
DAMN! I already ordered it. Oh well thanks anyway. I had a yard in Oregon (Covey's Auto Salvage) wanted $200 so I started to think $75 was a deal.
I did found a place that would clean and paint the tank locally. He did however say that coating the inside of a baffled tank was almost pointless because it's impossible to get in every corner with all the baffling. He said as long as I keep fuel in the tank and run it regularly I should not have a recurring rust issue. He also said adding a little marvel mystery oil from time to time would help oil the tank a little. What do you think? How does Marvel Mystery Oil affect the rotary?
10-14-10 | 11:26 AM
#31
Full Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Newark, NY, USA
So it sounds like you have found a definite issue in the fuel system.
I had a similar issue when a ground for the AFM broke, ran horribly and it's due to a bad splice location - half way between the AFM and where the harness is tied to the enging. If I recall it's a green wire that has a splice from one to three wires and it's right in the middle of where the harness flexes the most. If this was corroded on yours it would cause erratic AFM readings depending on the engine position - so make and break a connection as it's running rough.
When you put the gas tank back together, put the sending unit in so the float moves vertically - from the factory the GSL-SE had the unit one hole off - resulting in an inaccurate fuel gauge.
I had a similar issue when a ground for the AFM broke, ran horribly and it's due to a bad splice location - half way between the AFM and where the harness is tied to the enging. If I recall it's a green wire that has a splice from one to three wires and it's right in the middle of where the harness flexes the most. If this was corroded on yours it would cause erratic AFM readings depending on the engine position - so make and break a connection as it's running rough.
When you put the gas tank back together, put the sending unit in so the float moves vertically - from the factory the GSL-SE had the unit one hole off - resulting in an inaccurate fuel gauge.
10-14-10 | 12:07 PM
#32
Canceled my order. PM sent.
10-14-10 | 12:12 PM
#33
So it sounds like you have found a definite issue in the fuel system.
I had a similar issue when a ground for the AFM broke, ran horribly and it's due to a bad splice location - half way between the AFM and where the harness is tied to the enging. If I recall it's a green wire that has a splice from one to three wires and it's right in the middle of where the harness flexes the most. If this was corroded on yours it would cause erratic AFM readings depending on the engine position - so make and break a connection as it's running rough.
When you put the gas tank back together, put the sending unit in so the float moves vertically - from the factory the GSL-SE had the unit one hole off - resulting in an inaccurate fuel gauge.
I had a similar issue when a ground for the AFM broke, ran horribly and it's due to a bad splice location - half way between the AFM and where the harness is tied to the enging. If I recall it's a green wire that has a splice from one to three wires and it's right in the middle of where the harness flexes the most. If this was corroded on yours it would cause erratic AFM readings depending on the engine position - so make and break a connection as it's running rough.
When you put the gas tank back together, put the sending unit in so the float moves vertically - from the factory the GSL-SE had the unit one hole off - resulting in an inaccurate fuel gauge.
Thanks for the tip on the sending unit. Let me understand this correctly. If I'm looking at the sending unit from the rear wheel well, I should turn the unit one hole clockwise or counter clockwise?
10-14-10 | 12:14 PM
#34
I found that Red Kote sealer here at O'Reiley so, I will give it a coat of that while it's off, despite what the radiator guy said, as soon as I get the tank back.
10-15-10 | 11:01 AM
#35
Full Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Newark, NY, USA
I really hope this solves the problem. I will also check the wiring by the AFM.
Thanks for the tip on the sending unit. Let me understand this correctly. If I'm looking at the sending unit from the rear wheel well, I should turn the unit one hole clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks for the tip on the sending unit. Let me understand this correctly. If I'm looking at the sending unit from the rear wheel well, I should turn the unit one hole clockwise or counter clockwise?
10-15-10 | 03:12 PM
#36
10-15-10 | 03:22 PM
#37
Let me ask you one more thing before you send it. I had to cut about 1/2 inch off my pickup tube to accommodate the universal screen filter a month ago when I started. I got the OE filter in today and tried it on and it comes awful close to the bottom of the tank. Is it supposed to sit on the bottom? Also, how far from the bottom of the pickup filter should the pickup tube be? What I mean is when you slide the tube into the filter you surely do not want to bottom it out in there so how far up should I leave it? Prob just enough for good fuel flow I'd imagine?
10-21-10 | 02:04 PM
#38
UPDATE!!!!!
Tank is back in, car is running better. I also replaced the pipe with the three Converters. I'm still having an injector issue because at one point it stated running real rough and after I wiggled the wire on one of the injector, it smoothed right out. Let me say it runs smooth and strong when it all works but I am going to have to pull those injectors...again... and just replace the plugs correctly and also have them flow tested and cleaned. I also still have the issue at 5500 rpm where it sputters and power drops of. I'm thinking that may be due to the injectors as well. I will post an update once the injectors are back in. Meanwhile, I just want to thank all of you who posted for all of your help. Stay tuned..............
Tank is back in, car is running better. I also replaced the pipe with the three Converters. I'm still having an injector issue because at one point it stated running real rough and after I wiggled the wire on one of the injector, it smoothed right out. Let me say it runs smooth and strong when it all works but I am going to have to pull those injectors...again... and just replace the plugs correctly and also have them flow tested and cleaned. I also still have the issue at 5500 rpm where it sputters and power drops of. I'm thinking that may be due to the injectors as well. I will post an update once the injectors are back in. Meanwhile, I just want to thank all of you who posted for all of your help. Stay tuned..............
Last edited by slvrghst; 10-21-10 at 02:07 PM.
