85 GSL gas gauge
12-07-03, 08:58 PM
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85 GSL gas gauge
my 85 GSL's gas gague has stopped working and was wondering what the main cause of this could be? and what are the cheapest ways if any to fix it im on a tight budget!
12-07-03, 09:13 PM
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Does it work at all? Just a bit? Do any of the other guages work? With mine, it registers about 2/3 tank when full. I assume the sender unit needs to be cleaned up, but I've never actually looked at the sender. The screws holding the unit to the tank are corroded and I've not bothered to go after them with the magic PB Blaster. I just keep filling the tank. It's not like I'll never use the fuel, ya know?
If you want to be sure what's wrong, there are test procedures in the Haynes manual and the FSM. I think if you search here and at www.mazspeed.com, you'll get more info on fuel guage problems/resolutions.
If you want to be sure what's wrong, there are test procedures in the Haynes manual and the FSM. I think if you search here and at www.mazspeed.com, you'll get more info on fuel guage problems/resolutions.
12-07-03, 09:23 PM
#4
I have similar problems (85 GS)and am in the process of fixing it. You should first determine if the problem is in the dash or fuel tank.
The fuel float assembly is resonably accessable behind the left rear wheel and left tank guard. If you disconnect the electrical connector and connect the black to the yellow wire, with the key on the gauge should move up to the full mark (about 0 Ohms, empty is around 100 Ohms). This means the gauge is working in the dash and your problem is in the tank.
There was 3 main problems with mine:
1) The electrical connector contacts were corroded and dirty.
2) There was an open circuit between the ground (black) wire terminal and the float body.
3) There was a short circuit between the hot wire (yellow) and the float body.
In addition the yellow/blue wire for the dash light had corroded to nothing.
I have rewired it and it now works great.
Just have to drill out the corroded screws (whose screw heads were corroded nubsand I had to grind down so I could remove the float assembly from the tank) that held the float assemly to the tank now!
Good Luck!
The fuel float assembly is resonably accessable behind the left rear wheel and left tank guard. If you disconnect the electrical connector and connect the black to the yellow wire, with the key on the gauge should move up to the full mark (about 0 Ohms, empty is around 100 Ohms). This means the gauge is working in the dash and your problem is in the tank.
There was 3 main problems with mine:
1) The electrical connector contacts were corroded and dirty.
2) There was an open circuit between the ground (black) wire terminal and the float body.
3) There was a short circuit between the hot wire (yellow) and the float body.
In addition the yellow/blue wire for the dash light had corroded to nothing.
I have rewired it and it now works great.
Just have to drill out the corroded screws (whose screw heads were corroded nubsand I had to grind down so I could remove the float assembly from the tank) that held the float assemly to the tank now!
Good Luck!
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