i got this from http://rotaryresurrection.com/ (in the tech section) im in the process of doin this and it says that i need a solinoid (ON the 89-91 NA, find the white and brown solenoid plugs, and reuse those stock solenoids. These plugs are the ecu signal to actuate the ports, and will both open the vacuum solenoids and trigger the motor to turn on. ON older models, your custom rpm trigger will be used in place of them, but you’ll still need a solenoid)

so heres my question where can i get a soleniod and how do i hook it up?

i already have the pump and imstead of opening the exhust valve on the airpump, i bought a pressure regulator and im going to dail it down to 5 psi w/the regulator. i have already bought the rpm actived switch from summit (summit brand i think it cost like $50). i still not sure how to wire that up yet so i guess thats a second question how do i wire up the rmp actvated switch?

 

solenoids: go find a later model second gen and jack em when the owner isnt looking.

chances are the RPM switch will come with directions. you will likely have to wire this to your ignitor input or your coil - terminal (just like a tach). the output from the switch will power the solenoids themselves, or a relay that fires the solenoids.

now is the time to make friends with an electronics guy!

 

well i didn't use any solenoids, but i did use the rpm switch and a relay. I wired the rpm switch to my trailing coil (tach signal) and then sent the other wire from the rpm switch to the relay which in turn powered the electric air pump. I didn't use the RR write-up, but i did use one that is on this board, i think it links off to fc3s's place though. I've found that after about 2 months the pump i got off ebay was starting to weaken.. guess that's why it's a lumbar pump and not a constant pump though.. good luck and try not to take shortcuts with the wiring.

 

you havent had any problems with the sleeves closing too slowly? the pump i have had a gauge on it ( i took it off) im thinking that if i leave that open it can be used as a bleed off so that too much pressure cant build up in the lines ,and also it could bleed off the air once i hit a lower rpm so that the sleeves will close and quicker and i can get my lowend back what do u think?

 

well i got it wired in to the right( i think) but i tryd testing it and its not working right. heres what i did first i hook up the pos(red) wire from the rpm actived switch to the fuse box. second i gounded the box to the chassy. 3rd i hook the rmp senser wire to the negitive side of the trialing coil ( which is where my tach sensor wire was hooked up at). and then for testing purposes i gave the pump a consistant power and hook the gray wire from the box to close the cirtcut once it hit 2000 rpms ( remeber just testing) and all it would do is stay on even at 750 rpms. i tried swaping the gray and yellow wire sense they say that they are both ground wire that open at the given rpm's. can anyone help pls im going to radio shack tommarrow and buying 2 relays and i would really like to get this going!
thank you


charles

 

Draw out a diagram and post it. That may be easier to follow and trouble shoot. Just a quick guess, unless you have a relay in the cicuit, you should only need 1 positive tap.

 

what do you mean one positive tap?

 

heres the diagram of it i havent add a relay yet for 2 reasons 1 i was testing and 2 i dont knkow how to hook it up to be honest the parts store didnt have any universal ones so they found me one with 4 prongs on it but diagram to hook it and i havent really hookd one up b4 so i really dont know how

 

Your written description is hard for me to follow, I'm a visual thinker. From what I interpret, you have a positive going to the pump and the box, what is the box? Sounds like once the pump starts, there is no way to break the cicuit.

With a relay in the system, you should go batt+ to the relay, - rpm switch to the trailing coil, +rpm switch to the relay tab that closes the relay and the +out of the relay to the pump, then ground the pump to the chassis. I don't have a relay handy to give you the connection numbers that are on a standard relay.

This make any sense? I have to draw out my wiring when I do stuff like this.

 

im trying to put a a diagram on here but the file is too big so its like 2.8 mb so give me a few minutes and i ll have it up unless you have an email that i can send it to.

the box is the rmp activated switch

 

did you cut the loops from the rpm switch?

 

what loops