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83 12a wont run properly

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Old 02-06-14, 11:52 AM
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83 12a wont run properly

Alright guys I'm at my wits end here with this. Last night when I was leaving a friends house my 7 started acting weird after I pulled onto the road. The only thing that happened prior to that was a massive dip in the rock road just before the street that when I hit it definitely bottomed out the car. From there I drove home and the whole way it struggled to get up to speed at all and climb the hills and it also backfired/popped the whole way while I was driving. When I stopped I checked for leaks and could find any sign of any fluids leaking and my exhaust looks solid. Oh it also wouldn't idle. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Old 02-06-14, 05:11 PM
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Fuel pump damage? Or a pinched fuel line? OR... Maybe a needle seat or float is stuck from the impact of bottoming out. Try tapping on the fuel rail banjo bolt with a hammer and see if it jiggles the carburetor innards loose.
Old 02-06-14, 11:10 PM
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Fuel pump seems to be running fine based on the way it sounds at least. I may need to get a fuel line pressure checker thinga-ma-jig to check that out if all else fails. Considering I can't get her to start long enough to get her up the driveway and into the garage makes it kinda hard to get under there and look at all the fuel lines. The fuel filter looks solid at least, not that a replacement would hurt much. As for the carb I hadn't even considered that as a possible issue yet. I'll give it a look in the morning, 25 degrees in austin makes this way too cold for me to do anything outside right now. Up until now all I've heard is that it's probably a pinched exhaust pipe but after checking everything the exhaust checks out... as much as I would have loved an excuse to straight pipe right after the header again. I also just got a compression tester today so I'll probably check that while I'm out there anyway.

Saturday it's supposed to warm up a bit... it can't come fast enough.
Old 02-06-14, 11:40 PM
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Check operation of the roll over safety valve and that the fuel return line isnt damaged or clogged.
Old 02-07-14, 05:28 AM
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I'm thinking it might be the return line. Like I said, saturday is coming. Where would I find the roll over safety valve, or what would it look like?
Old 02-07-14, 10:10 PM
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Little valve around the fuel pump where all the lines are plumbed.
Old 02-07-14, 10:11 PM
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Take the return line off the carb and blow through. If it is hard to get air through to the tank then your check valve is bad or you have a clogged line.
Old 02-08-14, 11:57 AM
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There could be debris in your carb down at the lowest point where stuff settles. The bump freed it up. It partially blocked one of the primary fuel jets. To clear it out, you have to take the top of the carb off and blow compressed air into the air bleeds. Make sure the float bowls are empty first. Turn off the fuel pump (which ever way you know how to do it), run the engine until the carb is out of gas, then proceed.
Old 02-08-14, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
There could be debris in your carb down at the lowest point where stuff settles. The bump freed it up. It partially blocked one of the primary fuel jets. To clear it out, you have to take the top of the carb off and blow compressed air into the air bleeds. Make sure the float bowls are empty first. Turn off the fuel pump (which ever way you know how to do it), run the engine until the carb is out of gas, then proceed.
Sadly the engine won't run now. I can hear the starter turning the engine and the belts moving however the car will not start. I haven't had a spare hand to check spark yet but I don't think that's the issue.

As for this valve, anyone have any idea what it looks like? I can't seem to find anything on it.

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I just took those 3 pictures if they help anybody with telling me which one is on the return line etc.

Oh right almost forgot, did the blow test today and couldn't get any air through.
Old 02-09-14, 03:27 AM
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Well its 330 in the morning and I finally figured it out. First I was blowing down the source fuel line, after grabbing the right line it blew no problems. Then I checked spark and didnt have spark on leading. Figured maybe the jutter killed my 2nd gen coil mod so I swapped back to the stock coil... still no fire. Swapped the trailing coil over to the leading side of the dizzy and started rough. Adjusted the timing and it ran basically perfect. So I'm guessing I need a j109 replacement. Any of you got one to spare or wanna baby me through an hei ignitor mod or an msd 6a conversion?
Old 02-09-14, 07:00 AM
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Glad you've found the problem! Ive been keeping an eye on this haha.

This is pretty much what mine is doing at the moment also. Ill have to go through what everyones suggested here! Seems a bit random whether it wants to idle, or just cut out and stall.
Old 02-09-14, 12:07 PM
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Thats a similar problem to whay mine was having on start up that kept going until it got about half way to operating temps. I just figured it was a part of the cold air dragging my baby down but I guess it could have been a sign of a failing ignitor now.

*** WARNING INCOMING PITY PARTY***
This just adds to the stack of bad things that have happened since November. First my sister thought she slid her into a guard rail and thiught she had destroyed my paint not realizing it was already like that. It that same incident however she did destroy the passenger control arm, thanks to RB for the replacements. Second was the hose clamp for the end of the heater core line decided to eat through the hose and I got to find out that 5/8 heater hose was on backorder everywhere, thanks amazon for still having bags of gates hosing. Now finally this ignitor. I just hope thats the last of it.
Old 02-10-14, 12:11 PM
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check the link in my sig for the hei mod. i couldnt find a good one myself, so i made one lol
Old 02-14-14, 06:03 PM
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Like the write up you did. My only question is whether or not it's safe for me to use a 2nd gen coil instead of 2 individual coils once I'm on the dr100 ignitors. I could go grab 2 new msd coils but I've already got the 2nd gen coil and I'd rather save the 100 bucks.
Old 02-14-14, 06:48 PM
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idk, i didnt have access to a 2nd gen coil when i did mine. i got the accell super coils and they ran like $25 each, and they work well. i actually just finished up putting the ignitors and the relay for the coils and the relay for my e-fans inside a 5x7x3 project box from radioshack. looks very nice compared to before lol
Old 02-14-14, 08:03 PM
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Yeah im just trying to figure out if the dr100 can fully handle the 2nd gen coils as opposed to the j109s. Everything I'm reading says the dr100 out performs the j109, just cant find out by how much. Also since 2 coils seems like it would result in wasted spark any way then I dont see how the 2nd gen coil would change that. Just my 2 cents anyway.

Got pics of that project box up?
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