... that says it. Well I've started removing the ratnest, and well, I've hit a few 'ers. I printed off the tutorial from mazspeed forum, but I notice a few differences, and things missing. so I have a few Q's.

Basically I want to remove everything not needed to run/perform, I plan to fab up a header asembly and a cold air intake, and when I can afford a new carb/intake setup. we'll see when the time comes. The only "luxury I want is cruise. there is no A/C, on my car, so can I remove ALL of the solenoids incl. the white unit? I want to clean this thing up enough to be as sano as possible, and be able to understand what's going on.

I've attached these pics with their own related questions, hope someone can help, and hopefully help someone else too!









Thanks to everyone who can help!

mikecraigen@hotmail.com if easier...

 

Last pic is the OMP, provides much needed oil to the rotor housings DO NOT DISCONNECT, unless premixing.

First pic i believe has something to do with cruise. Ill look at the others in like 10 mins

 

Look at the FAQ it has links to some manuals. Did you order the block off plate for the airpump or you gonna fab one? Good luck on the project.

 

I will be helpful for a change. Black canister on passenger side strut tower is charcoal canister. it is important for fumes and ****. Thing behind canister basically on the firewall passenger side is your cruise control unit.

DEFINITLEY keep the middle housing vent (below filler tube) this is the bit they are talking about venting to a pcv valve or whatnot. venting this prevents lung butter.

Almost everything you asked is covered by that tutorial it just takes some reading between the lines and some clever interpretation.

also dl a copy of the FSM for your year available in the link in my sig

in case u cant see it its rx7.foxed.ca

 

Mike,

My advice to you is to leave the rats nest in place with all items functioning or hooked up unless you are going to run an after market header/exhaust system and an after market carburetor.

There are countless threads in this section where members have removed the rats nests and have not done it correctly and wind up with idle and drive ability issues.


If you are insistent on doing it then there are threads in the archives that have well covered this procedure.

 

I'm posting this link for informational purposes only: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637323

 

I am definitely ripping the garbage out, and have done so mostly, what i have shown is what i have left to hook up. since my "charcoal canister" basically goes under the car, presumably to the cat. i should be able to remove right? the OMP I'll leave on then, i've been spraying the linkages and loosening them up daily anyway. basically my problems arrive with the few lines unhooked.

in the tutorial page 8 ( and page 20_, rx7carl mentions plugging the port where the #2 aab plugged in, as seen in the above pic, the area is different ( i think), what's throwing me off is that it the fitting connected to the line i'm holding in the 2nd pic, attached to the "device" on the front o the carb and tees off, and the tut. doesn't mention this, in fact it looks different all together to me; i don't have the yellow elec. connector or those 2 hoses running above the whole mess, or the red/black wired thing..... "grrrrr!!" so... can i leave this connected, and just omit the t fitting?

as far as the white connector/solenoid- since i have no a/c anymore, can i not just run the line from the #1 port to the cruise line and route the throttle opener to something else or t it in to this line?? (again I apologize, but dammit I know my 2-strokes and bike motors an' my ol 66 jeep well (as far as that goes here's a tip: 6" cedar trees laying horizontally in thick bush and jeep rads mix like scotch and 2% milk...) , an they don't have all this crap i just wanna go out an play!!)

 

i notice now that i freed up the linkage to the "OMP" thing, that my throttle is sticking due to a bind what it seems to be is that the arm on the unit is seized i guess unless it is supposed to be unresponsive and the linkage sags into this arm attachment... subsequently when i tried a trial start after hooking up the lines etc, my oil seems to be a little gassy..... !...

 

i'll post a few more pics tomorrow


*ps... forgot about the ATF... rastafaric-garage experience...

 

this talks about the charcoal canister..you should read it..
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...rcoal+canister

 

If you're OMP is seized then you either need to replace it or block it off and run premix. The OMP injects oil in with the air & fuel mix to lubricate the internal seals of the engine. Without the oil your engine will fail.

As far as the charcoal cannister it's ok to chunk it. If you're getting rid of the rest of the emissions and cleaning up the bay then why not?

The thing you're asking about if you need to plug it or chuck it in the next to last pic controls the shutter valve and it needs to be plugged. It's connected to a butterfly in the intake manifold.

Whenever you get around to changing over to a different carb or for whatever reason ever pull this intake off, you can block the coolant passages on the engine with freeze plugs.

 

this is the play in the linkage, the omp doesn't move should it be naturally down or elevated?

After your post djjr42, I am considering premixing... no big hassle i guess, my quad's a 2stroker - MOTUL for all!!

 

These are the last of my "hangups"


I'm pretty sure this is right, a second opinion would be nice though...


I couldnt make out the tutorial image, and i dont see where the "saved hose" with the 2 different sizes would go...

since I interpretted no mention of what to do with the filler neck port and imagine this is what is to be hooked up


i got thinkin... could this setup work, giving a more direct vac line?

 

Picture 2 of the first post is the choke diapragm, which i removed when i toke my ratsnest off and removed the choke as well. Picture 3 orange thing is the choke return delay valve not important take it of and plug the hole. picture 5 leave it open dont plug it. picture seven plug all those entries. picture 2 of the third post i took of that whole assembly, the black thing with the other diaphram on the side, which is the bimetal choke assembly remove it, not nesesary and plug the holes. Picture 2 of the second post , the linkage should not have free play. I will try and find for you the manual that i used to remove the rats nest that tells you the things that are needed and what is not, very clearly done. Do what you can with this info until i can find you the website. good luck o sorry and in picture 2 of the first post, the spring thingy is correctly positioned leave it as is, dont touch it.

 

This are the manuals they may help you, still looking for the ratsnest thing
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

 

You got lucky i found it. check out this thread and save the pictures to your computer then print them and get working. good luck, it's very helpfull. Tip: if you dont want mechanical secondarys then dont remove the parts that say mechanical secondary, leave them.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/intake-carb-rebuild-how-strip-nikki-down-648376/

 

Sorry i keep on posting, is just little things that i remember, dont remove the throttle opener, which is the black mushroom thing i told you to remove, i was just informed that the a/c will turn your car off, if you remove that, it goes connected to the white solenoid. sorry i posted so much.

 

no! no! thanks man! i'd rather someone post me 500 tips than tell me to "search the archive."! When I first g0t this car in '99 It took me months to find Mazspeed and with "rural" modem service...,anyways, I used to be on the forum daily - never paid attention to the "emissions" issue (thought i'd never do it)- and I tried to help anyone with a question deemed "annoying by others" cuz hey, we were all there once... thanks again!! I'll remember to send you some pics when I finish the car up(might be a while...). thanks again!

 

no problem man, we are all here to help

 

i'mma try not to jack the thread too much but i saw this and figured i'd ask, the two lines from the filler neck, where do they go? the one in the housing on mine is plugged somewhere i can't remember i'll take some pics tomorrow, but the nipple on the filler neck i have a small oil filter on it. my problem is, i'm still getting **** building up inside the filler neck, and i have to clean it up every so often just to keep it from doing anything to my engine. (also it's mainly rusty looking stuff that builds up in there none of that milky ****, so i'm guessing water is condensing inside the filler neck, what could cause this?

 

post some pics and i wil see what i can do

 

well since i'm not sleepy yet :P...thanks man...
here's the nipple of the filler tube, its got a filter on it..

the one on the housing hooks up here, which i believe (i'm not so sure its a bit too dark to see) goes to the charcoal canister

and this is just to show you all the **** being built up in there

 

googd news and bad news, the second pic is correct. That hose goes to the filler tube on the opposite side of the first picture, bad news is that my filler tube dosent have that nipple from picture one, so i have no idea, what that one is in your car, and dont worry to much about all that **** inside the filler tube unless it can fall inside the engine, mine is rusted as well, but it's just superficial. keep on asking about pic number one. good luck

 

the hose from the second pic connects to the housing nipple as so..

the nipple on the filler tube usually points in the same direction but since i took off the tube to paint it (keep it from rusting on the outside) i decided to just turn it so the filter doesn't get in the way of the beehive....... hmmm i was thinking...does that hose need to go to the cannister?

 

So...