Looking for information on an 81-85 12A (or 13B) LOCKED Distributor, commonly used on Race Cars.

Any help would be appriciated.

 

rotary shack sells locked distributors, but Im not sure if thats what your looking for. Also, making your dist. a locked dist. isn't all that involved, I think there is actually a write-up for it in the archives.

~Chris

 

Search, its been covered many many times. It will hurt your gas milage and ease of starting if you care. Its really only good for race only to simplify the system so less can go wrong.

 

Should I pull it up for him???? You know im good for that lol


Whoa 962 post and he dont know the search function??????????

 

I was gonna say... he must not be looking very hard.

 

I looked hard enough. I got more information from this thread alone.


I'd like to note the search function on this site sucks.


And yes, Im running a race engine in my street car. I have a 2nd Gen to be exact.

 

This should give a start:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/lock-distibuter-tutorial-good-job-227682/

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/locking-dizzy-358762/

 

I recently did this for my racecar.

http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/distlock.jpg

Its pretty simple, take the distributor apart, weld the centrifugal weights stuck, remove the vaccum diaphrams and rig up some brackets to hold the rods.

 

Thanks guys for all the help.

 

that's awesome!!! thanks for yet another project I have to complete...

 

I didn't bother to look at all those other posts, so I don't know if they told you this....but here's the easiest way I've found and works the best.

Just pull all the guts out of the distributor until you can get cutters on the springs attached to the weights, remove/cut off the springs and put it back together. Without the springs, any time the dizzy is spinning, the weights will be locked out at full advance. Don't weld the weights or anything, since if you add too much weight you can throw off the balance and destroy the bearings in the dizzy. And when you put it back together just plug the vacuum lines going to the vacuum diaphragms.

 

Although I have never taken apart a distributor fully. I have a picture in my mind of the springs and weights. My question is, could u just take the spring and weights out and reverse them so that the springs press the weights outwards rather than inwards? or is there something where the spring would sit that would affect the advancing mechanism. Ive always wondered why people dont just do it like that, so maybe someone can explain!

 

No, the spring pulls the weights inward, twords the distributor shaft, you'd have to switch it to a different type of spring that pushes the weights out.....and there's no point in doing it. Just cut off the springs and pull them out and disconnect and plug the vacuum lines going to the vacuum advance things. Any time the shaft is rotating, without the springs the weights are free to extend all the way out, which locks the timing at full advance. Normally the springs pull the weights back in, which retards it until a certain rpm when the weights can overcome the springs and swing outward to advance timing.

 

so all you recomend is cutting the springs!

 

Sean, I did this to mine already. Little bit of work but no big deal, I can help you. Give me a call when things warm up.