O 16581 72452 5

"Personally, I wouldn't wire them open, especially if they are functioning properly - you will kill your low-end. So, unless you plan to do all your serious driving about 5K RPM, and don't care about the low end, you might want to reconsider disabling them."

The power kicks in specifically at 4k RPMs. Low end doesn't suffer considerably, i drove mine on the streets around the 2-3k RPM range (same as i did with frozen shut sleeves).

I was wrong, you haven't expirenced a car with closed sleeves.

TexasGunRunner

Thanks. ...just kidding

OK, so then why did Mazda decide to have the sleeves closed below 3800 RPM and then open up gradually to 6000RPM?

If it has no effect, why go through the hassle of adding additional pieces which can fail at all?

According to LongDuck, Forseti and others, having them closed at lower RPM increase air column velocity, thereby improving low-end torque. As they open up, you get more fuel/air mix, giving you more power.

So, if your sleeves were frozen shut before you removed them, you haven't experienced driving one with properly working 6 port induction either?

To be honest, feeling the difference is not really quantifiable...if one really wanted to see the change on the power and torque curve, one would probably have to dyno it. I wonder if anyone has done that...dyno it properly working and then wired open. Someday when I have money and nothing better to do, I might just do that.

--Brian TC

LongDuck

Here is the discussion (cross-posted) from our previous conversation on this. I submit this information to help the original poster make a determination on what will work best for his intended purpose:

"In my view, there is a distinct gap between SE owners who swear by the '6'-port design, and those who wire theirs open... I'm of the belief that the Mazda engineers were ahead of their time when they released this system, and that, when it's working correctly, it works VERY well to broaden the powerband of an otherwise 'peaky' horsepower curve.

With that in mind, I offer up the following; your '6'-ports are an effective means to increase air column velocity at low engine RPM, which is conducive to producing torque - which the rotary engine lacks at low RPM. When the RPM goes up, the '6'-ports open, allowing more fuel and air into the chambers, thus producing more top end power. Both of these things acting in concert produce more power than wiring them open (which hurts low end torque), or leaving them inoperable (which hurts high end power).

If your '6'-ports are not working correctly, you will suffer from one or possibly both of these conditions. Either way, the 13B still produces more power than a 12A, which is why a lot of guys who 'move up' to 13B power just wire them open and are done with it.

If you've felt a good-running 13B w/'6'-ports, you'll never go back, because there is a definite 'push' at 3800-4500 rpm that is not present in a 12a engine - it's almost like a turbo coming into boost range, and once you learn to drive and shift within this range, nothing else will do. Now, onto your problem...

Now that you have the actuators, I would suggest that you work toward hooking them up correctly. The upper intake manifold houses the '6'-port actuators, turning rods, and the port sleeves are located inside the engine side housings (front and back). There are only 2 '6'-ports in the engine - center housings do not have sleeves. The header/manifold has nothing to do with port actuation, other than the single metal tube which leads back up from the catalytic converter (#3) and provides back pressure to actuate the port valves.

If you feel resistance when you rotate the rods by hand, your sleeves are most likely in place. I do not recommend removing the turning rods without also removing the upper intake manifold, as you may not be able to get the rod lined up with the sleeve correctly without knowing what it looks like and how it operates internally. Once you've had it apart, it's pretty easy to do, but for the first-timer, I'd just cut out some gaskets, hook up the actuators and verify function.

You cannot have any gas leaks from the actuating tubes or where they connect to the actuators. You'll notice that underneath the lower intake manifold is a shiny metal tube which connects the exhaust backpressure tube to both actuators. Any leak in getting this backpressure to either actuator, and neither will work correctly. We're only taking about between 2-6psi, so that is not a lot of pressure to be working with to get the ports to operate.

Test the actuators before installation by covering the holes at the bottom with your thumb and trying to push the actuator rod in with gentle pressure. It should not move if it's good. If the rod can be moved back and forth easily, the valve within the actuator is bad and will not work. Check both actuators to ensure that they're both moving freely.

Then, before you install the actuators, rotate the turning rods by hand to be sure that they rotate through their roughly 90 degree rotation smoothly and without undue force. If they catch or seem 'scritchy', then you'll need to remove the lower intake, remove the sleeves and clean everything out until they slide like glass.

Once you have this system sorted out, it is a vast improvement over having them set one way or the other. Mazda intended this for specific airflow management in concert with the Dynamic Chamber effect, and you're hobbling the car's ability to perform if you don't get this system running right. Good luck, and reply back if questions,"

Link to previous discussion (found through search):

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=6ports

O 16581 72452 5

No, i haven't expirenced sleeves which were working properly.

I see it as a driveability thing, much like the heavy stock flywheels. With the sleeves fully removed you gain top end power because there's no sleeves to restrict the airflow. When horsepower is added daily driveability will generally suffer because most mods increase high end power and reduce low end power. I expirenced closed port sleeves as well as open so i have a good idea of what the power would feel like with them working properly. I just don't see why everyone makes such a huge deal about it killing low end power because it really wasn't that bad. Who can say they've raced below 4k RPMs? I know i can't.

TexasGunRunner

I am curious, what kind of racing do you do?

Autocross looks like fun, and I have been going to the events to get more familiar with it..

In drag racing, I've heard about many people talk about not shifting until redline or near redline. That makes sense and is consistent with what I have done when I accelerate hard.

I am not sure that is what I would do in autocross though. I would think there would be a lot of below 4000 RPM lead into turns, etc. Maybe downshift before the turn for some slight engine braking, and then upshifting as you come out, accelerating so that you don't have to shift while in a straight leg? I guess I will figure that out when I do it.

I am kind of leery of doing quick turns at very high RPM. In the Summer of 2002 I nearly crashed a borrowed RT-10 Viper while navigating the mixmaster in Dallas.

I was trying to go to I 30 East from US75 IIRC, and you do a decending loop onto I35E, move over 5 lanes and then do an ascending loop onto I 30 East. Anyway, I wasn't familiar with Dallas and the decending loop is tight, so I had downshifted into 1st.

Suddenly I found myself spit out into a lane with a huge tractor trailer barreling down on me from behind. My split second analysis went something like, "No big deal, I am in a Viper, I'll just zoom out of the way."

Well, I should have thought about it a fraction of a second longer and I would have remembered the Viper was a standard (at that time I hadn't owned or driven a standard in at least 3 years).

I floored it...wow, it responded alright, but then the RPMs were so high, I had to keep both hands on the wheel. In the Viper, at very high RPM, the accelerator becomes very touchy...every pulse of blood into your foot seems to yank you as you surge back and forth 5 mph. That, and for whatever other reason, the Viper just feels unstable at high RPM. Anyway...I was doing 60+ in first (still not at redline), a death grip on the wheel, sliding across 5 lanes of traffic to find myself in another tight turn. Once I was in the turn, I eased off on the accelerator until I coasted down to 40 where I felt like I could safely shift.

No doubt anyone and everyone can point out numerous things I did wrong. The point is that it was an exciting and memorable 10 seconds of my life, I survived, and now I am leery of high RPM tight turns.

--Brian TC

O 16581 72452 5

Drag racing and spirited country road driving (flat plains in indiana, i could always see what lies in the next turn). In both i always held my gears out to around 8k RPMs. I never let my tach drop below 6.5k RPMs.

I was going to get into road courses until my motor let go. It should be ready this summer for Rotary Revolufion, but it won't have a rotary in it.

BigJim

Just to clarify my original question, it wasnt so much of a should i, because ive read all of your posts, i did search. ANd my decision was to wire them open until i redo my exhaust. I just needed to know how to wire them open because no other posts said anyhting about it because, just like in this post, it turned into a fight about why and why not to do it

kennedy

I fixed my actuators by putting a T into the air pump hose and feeding the air into the actuator tubing. This caused them to open a little early so I got some small springs from a hardware store to go over the plunger rods and cut them to fit. the added resistance makes them open about 3300 rpm, close enuf for me. I was lucky that nothing was frozen up, it just needed hooked up.

BigJim

Well ive begun the work and i took the actuators off, they werent froze up. The little arm is. The part taht goes into the engine. I tapped on them and they started to move and i can move them by hand about 10 times then they freeze up again. Then i have to tap on them again to break them free and itl move easily by hand for 5 to 10 times then freeze up again. I pulled the 2 screws holding a plate around the little thing and tried to remove it, but i didnt know if i should or not so im here to ask. The thing the actuators turn keeps freezing, do i try to pull it out or wat?

RacerX7fb

BigJim.. since youre getting an RB header and perhaps have some $$ to spare.. get the presilenser as well, it has the backpressure sensing tube to open the 6 port actuators, provided they are working properly
The actuators themselves rarely freeze... if that little arm youre speaking of is then most likely the sleeves are stuck... if you continue to tap on the levers then you might break the rods!
Only way to truly free them up is to remove them and thoroughly clean them. If you are mechanically up to the task.. remove the entire upper and lower intake manifold.. clean it all out with carb cleaner. Im not going to go into detail .. Brownmound has a write up on this..search time! Reassemble using new gaskets.
and feel how an SE should run

TexasGunRunner.. I can imagine nearly all 500 ft/lbs of torque while in 1st gear in a Viper on a public highway at that
Ive been in several riding along during autocrosses.. the car is a beast

BigJim

Well they move, sometimes. They arent stuck anymore. They just stick if they arent constantly being moved. But i think ill just go ahead and take off the upper and lower intake manifolds. My dad said hed show me how and watnot