I HAVE searched, but did not find an answer...

Problem I have is:
1. The 5/6 port actuators/sleeves appear to be frozen.
2. The exhaust tube which is part of this induction system is not there - neither is that section of the exhaust.

I'd like to get these working, and need some help.

1. Where did the tube from the exhaust terminate?

2. I have read about using the air pump as a pressure source, and about electronic/electric methods for actuators, but saw no details on how to do this.


I realize I will need to pull the manifolds to inspect and clean the sleeves. So after this is accomplished, can anyone provide details on a recommended method to restore this system to operate automatically?

Thanks

 

The original feed came from the exhaust right at the cat area from what I remember. You can probably drill & tap a small hole on your exhaust and install a fitting to connect it to the manifold. That is probably the route I will take when reinstalling the actuators on a motor that I recently purchased.
L8R

 

I wouldn't know where to connect the exhaust feed to, which is question 1 above.
But that sounds like a reasonable approach to restore operation rather than the other choices like air pump source.

 

sat I have to replace the fuel pressure regulator on my se ill try and get some pics also have you looked at the service manual for diagrams?

 

You may have PM'ed me, and I replied there;

The '6'-port actuators are only powered by 4-6 psi when they're clean and working correctly (sleeves can turn with minimal effort). In this regard, with a stock exhaust system, you can just put a 'T' connection somewhere before your cat and develop enough back pressure to operate them.

When you move up to a high-flow exhaust system, Mazdatrix takes a RB presilencer and puts a 90 degree bend in the '6'-port feed tube facing the incoming exhaust flow and then puts a Venturi shape to this. This shape and orientation helps to build enough pressure to operate the ports even though the backpressure is reduced. This relies more on impact flow from the exhaust ports than true backpressure.

Good luck cleaning them up, and reply back here if you have any specific questions,

 

I still have my 6 port actuation set-up from my blue RX7, it has 2 regulators to manage the air going into the actuators and a valve controlling the excess air leaving the system. All done in brass fittings and using the factory airpump.

Plus it gave an awesome supercharged sound, which made everybody wonder what I had going on.... but the sound can be silenced in you leave the excess air valve fully open (which could be routed back into your exhaust). You are also able to adjust when you want the actuators to open! Using the air inlet regulator.

the Valve system was basically a small y-pipe with a valve on 2 of the ends. The with some fittings to attach the stock hoses to it. It was bascally the size of a cd. And it was barely noticed. All made of brass to withstand the heat. Plastic melts with the heat!!! The air pump melted my plastic version of this set up.

If anybody wants it.... $15 plus shipping and it's yours... that pretty much covers the parts. I'll leave the rubber hoses attached to it. And label where everything needs to go.

And make sure your actuators and sleeves are unseized. Which is simple.... for me I

-Remove the actuators with 2 little nuts on each one and the C-clip on the arm.

-Remove them and put alittle oil on the arm and start tapping it with a small hammer.
A few taps and it will become free.

-Then swing the sleeve arm on the mainfold to make sure it moves left and right.

-Make a new gasket for the actuator and put back.

-Repeat for the other one.

 

The red square shows where the exhaust enters the lower intake manifold. Though the little bung on the exhaust pipe.

The green square in the little tube that the actuators get fed though, it looks like a steel vacuum like that runs along the underneath of the lower intake manifold. Can be easily missed due to its size.

Purple square sorta shows my 6-port actuation system being fed from the air pump. What you dont see is the air pump has a tiny K&N filter on it aswell.

*note the LIM also feeds vacuum to your brake booster which is the tube above the actuator feed, which can be seen in between the red and green square. There is a fat braided line going from the fire wall to it.


Hope this poor picture helps!

 

Thanks for the replies so far.
lwnslw and gsl-se85fb: I have checked the manual and it shows what you describe - a tube from the cat section. Upon closer examination of the car, I discovered that the actuator inlet tube (See green square in Jimmy54 photo) is actually connected to my VACCUUM circuit.

Now THAT CAN'T be good.
I also discovered that what I believe is a vacuum switch (small component in a spring clip retainer on firewall, correct??) has a 12"L x 1/8" line connected to it that GOES NOWHERE.

I do realize that they need a POSITIVE pressure like LongDuck states above (4-6 PSI). I have seen that test in the manual also.

I guess to correct this one item I can just connect the vacuum switch to the tube now on the actuator inlet, and vaccum switch operation should be restored.

THEN, next task is to get a positive pressure to the actuator inlet.
Jimmy54 - I would love to have that setup you described! I'll send a PM to cover those details.

I think that route would be better on this car.


Thanks all for the help. I'll report here when get the parts from Jimmy54 installed.

 

Initial inspection finds that the actautors appear ok -not stuck there. The rear actautor link pin was siezed. A twist with pliers, with it removed from engine, made it free. I cannot move ther rear assembly by hand when installed. however. I did not try the front.

The port sleeves move - the rear moves from about 10 o'clock to 8 o'clock, about 60 degrees. Similar at front. However, both stick badly at the extremes.

How much rotation should they have?

 

The sleeves themselves can rotate 360*, when not connected to the actuators. It is the actuators that limit the arc sweep of the sleeves.

 

Btw, all the GSL-SE's on this thread are so amazing!

 

you can of course always go for a Euro-spec lower intake manifold from a S4 FC (NA). We didn't have cat's on those, and the 6-port actuators aren't sleeves but butterflies in the lower manifold. Work by vacuum. Easier, cleaner, less prone to stick.

 

That sounds interesting r e. Other adventurous fellows here may like to try that. I would if I had one laying around...

360 rotation - that seems reasonable since it is a cylinder. I suppose that since there are 158k smiles on the clock, there will be build up/debris that inhibits the full rotation. I'm racking my brain on how to get these to move a bit more freely without disasembling the manifolds. I think it will help to get some Marvelous Mystery Oil on them.

I reckon I'll spray some in the intake - like 'fogging' an engine for storage. After a couple days just sitting, this and other repairs will be completed and they will hopefully be a bit looser.

 

3.5 hours to remove the upper and lower intake manifold (engine in car). YIKES there are plenty of lines on these things. Looks alot easier in the book.
Jimmminy.

The sleeves did move easily in about a 45 degree range of motion. Then they get sticky tight. They came out OK.

The rearmost (external) actuator arm and flexible shaft is pretty much FROZEN. Plenty of CARBON in there. The 2 phillips screws holding the arm and shaft assy. are FROZEN - needs to be dis-assembled... Can't find my hammer driver...Can't get a grip on the heads...soak with PB blaster and time to quit for the day.

Awaiting delivery of air pump with port actuator setup from Jimmy54.

Time to order gaskets...

End update.

 

Had to HAMMER that frozen actutor shaft out of the lower manifold. There is a lot of carbon in that area - both ends.

Gaskets ordered.
Manifolds to be bead blasted at friends house this upcooming weekend.
Air pump not here yet...
Must purchase vacuum line.

Found this interesting graph showing the increased flow area I was MISSING with the aux. ports not operating as they should.

 

Well the bead blasting went ok and that did not cause any problem. However, big mistake - had the injector in my hands, cleaning the outer body on a bench wire wheel, when it yanked the injector and out of my hand and shot it down onto the floor. That can't be good.

The plastic covering/tip on the injection end was damaged. In an unrelated casulty, found the seals on the actuator rods are cracked in half. Any advice on replacing these items? And can new injector seals be purchased somehwhere?

In other departments, parts arrived from Jimmy54 and gaskets are due here in 5 working days.

Next: clean up/paint intake, air pump and actuator system. Oh yeah, got a busted bolt on air pump mount - easy out required. Hate when that happens.

 

What I did to get mine working best was to take off the lower intake manifold. Grab them pull them out. Then I took it and put it in the big green box that the loud trunk empties once a week. (a.k.a. I threy them away.) No tq loss my car will idle up hill in third gear.

 

AAAGGHHHHHHKKKK!
I want to see the actuator rods go in and out (cheap thrill). But thanks for the info Hyper4mance. I guess if I screw anything else up I can go to plan B you gave .

 

Your sleeves were only rotating as much as they needed too. The carbon build up prevented them from rotating the full 360. If you need replacement parts, steal them off of an S4, they are easier to find than an SE.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/vbgarage.php?do=editgarage

Hope that link takes you to the VB garage to see some photos (first attempt).

SO, getting the intake system off to get the 6PI system working, the air pump bolt SNAPPED. Parts of the intake gaskets are very difficult to scrape off - will apply gasket dissolver stuff tonight.

WORST: I was cleaning an injector body on a bench wire wheel - it got yanked out of my fingers and hit the floor. Small plastic cover on injector end smashed. **** and hell. Can I get by without that piece?

 

click to see

 

Is that powder coated? I like it,

 

Thanks. Not powder - spray. I was thinking about a color and I always liked the blue annodized color of aircraft/hydraulic fittings. At the parts store I found this 'annodized blue ' color. It required a special primer . It is heat resistant up to 500F.

 

Blue is my favorite colour, and that particular shade looks really cool! STOP IT - you're giving me ideas, and I don't need any more work to do!!!! lol.

 

FYI only

Attached is a photo of the aux. valve rod assy. I never saw that c clip when I took it apart. I knew something was missing at reassembly, and a local mazda enthusiast helped me get things straight.

You can see in the opeb end of the auxiliary valve, the pin boss is slightly thicker on the one end, towards the bottom of the photo. That is a key feature for re-assembly alignment. The forked opening in the rod is 'stepped' to fit the smallest diameter of the rod, and the smaller boss. Mazda calls this the 'reverse installation prervention device'.

Been too cold and lazy to get it put back together yet!