I have a 3spd auto in my 82' rx7. Its awful . Not finding much about FB to FB swap from my searches, but sorry if this topic has been beat to death already.

I want to swap for an FB manual.
How do I distinguish the 4spd from a 5spd by just looking at the housing?
What will i need from the donor car for the swap? 3rd pedal and all clutch related, shifter linkage... gauge cluster?
If someone has done a write up on an FB to FB tranny swap I want t read it.

 

You will need the flywheel, master and slave cylinders (might be better to buy new), pedal
assembly, redo some things on the nikki because auto to manual, not sure if there are any other
sensor changes needed on the FB for the swap. Shouldn't need to mess with the gauge cluster
at all.

Get the FSB and read about removing installing both to catch some of the differences.

 

Found a lot of general stuff with more searching. Not a whole lot on 82 to 82 swap (or 81-83 because they are the same). However it seems like i have it easy because everything should just line up for the tranny mount?
Got any links to carb adjustments related to transmission swaps?

 

I cant get a flywheel locking tool in time for when i need it. How do i lock the flywheel without it?

 

You will need a manual tranny mount.

 

Thanks. I think it will be a direct bolt onto my car.

Any idea where i can get a 54mm socket?

 

Amazon.

 

need it by tomorrow

 

Sears will have the socket in the 1/2" section.

Use some iron angle iron, drill some holes and undo some of the pressure plate bolts. Bolt
angle iron to flywheel, locked. There are some other unique ways to do this as well by using
a bolt thru the flywheel to the block but I don't recall the details.

 

Got the transmission pulled from the junkyard today. Wasnt too hard. Got the clutch master/slave cylinder, and the whole brake/clutch pedal assembly. How do most people go about getting these in and out?
BUT, and this is a problem, the engine was already pulled. So no flywheel or clutch was present for to bring home. Does another models car clutch/flywheel fit the 12a? Do i need to order one online?... just realize, can i use the flywheel i have and just buy the pressure plate, clutch disc? Not sure if the flywheels would be different from auto/manual

 

They are different,so you will have to get one. The stock flywheel has the counter weight incorporated in it and some years are different than others, so you need to do some research to make sure what is compatible and how to read the markings so you can identify them correctly. I am not sure how much a flywheel from a different year 12a will affect things. It may not be a big deal idk. There are some threads on here about flywheel weights / years and flywheel ID markings that may be helpful.

If you are interested in a lighter flywheel then after market units are available. They are different from the stock ones in that they do not have the counter weight built in. They use the separate counter weight from the automatics, so if you go that route you have the counter weight already. If you don't go that route you can sell the auto counterweight. They are getting hard to find and will be easy to sell. If you do go that route be advised, the lighter flywheel will give a little better acceleration, but the car will have a touchier clutch engagement at start off and wont be quite as smooth at cruise.

 

Since you have an 82, you will want an 82 flywheel. Mazdatrix has a nice FAQ article for identifying
the flywheels. BTW, the 82 is the lightest 1st gen flywheel @23 lbs. I swapped one on to my 80
12A and can really feel the difference.

Heres the mazdatrix link: Flywheels

Then you will need a pressure plate and clutch. Exedy seems to be the clutch mftr du jour.

 

Thanks guys. The flywheel identification page is awesome. These pictures are of manual flywheels right? I dont see anything about manual/auto on there.

Getting a lighter flywheel sounds like its all negatives, aside from acceleration, do i gain nothing? Why is it not smooth once cruising? Also a lighter flywheel will make snubbing the engine easier right? here's one i found on ebay, but it has a weight, does that mean its for auto's? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-RX-7-Rotary-Engine-Parts-Used-Flywheel-Set-For-1981-1982-12A-/251321822189?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a83f2abed&vxp=mtr
All I will need is the flywheel and the big *** 54mm nut? Everything i should have right? I'll get a throw out bearing with the clutch/plate

OH, and any tricks for the pedal assembly? I had to undue the the steering box and tilt the steering column down at the junkyard, is this what i need to do here again? Worried about hurting the bushings.

 

That ebay bid is for a manual flywheel and the front counter weight. You only need the flywheel.

Thats the right flywheel tho.

 

What part of the south are you in? I have some spare flywheels and I may have the one you need.

 

Louisiana, Baton Rouge specifically

 

Use a couple links from a sturdy chain with a bolt on each end to lock the flywheel. Sears and TSC will have the socket. TSC will be much cheaper. Get it in 3/4" drive, much stronger. Get a long 3/4" breaker bar.

 

Sears website says both of my local sears don't have 54mm or 2 1/8th sockets. Tractor supply is a good idea!

I took out the auto tranny last night, took a lot of wiggling around and yanking once i got mad, but it came out. Problem is i did not undo the 14mm bolts that attach the torque converter to the flywheel, so now when i try to take them off the whole thing just spins. Ill try the chain trick.

Do yall think these are the same? I'm ordering as much as i can from rockauto
Transmission Seal Kit for 79-88 Non-Turbo - Racing Beat
More Information for FEL-PRO TS80681

 

If you anchor anything to the rear iron, make sure to use two points. I've cracked a rear iron by only using one of the rear iron bolt holes.

 

I f*d up, I got out 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the torque converter on. One i stripped. Filed one side down so i could hammer on a 1/2 open end box wrench, and that stripped too. Tomorrow I'm going to try a vice grip, and if that does not work ill Just use a grinder on the torque converter. No way to fit sockets in the space. I even had to hammer my box wrench straight to get at the bolts.

To lock the flywheel i put the starter bolt back into the block. Then using the flat end (meant for breaking a tire bead i think) of a tire iron i was able to use it as a leaver and stop it from turning. Of course i had to block the tire iron from moving with my body. Not very pretty, comfortable, or easy way of going about it but it got the job kinda done. But like you say Kansas repo, i could of cracked the iron bolt hole doing that.

 

Taking the 54mm bolt off isn't as bad as when you torque it on with only one point locked down. I cracked the bolt hole near the oil filter before. I was able to use a nut to keep the trans together but it taught me a lesson. Now I only use a pneumatic torque gun with the air cranked up to 140 pounds.

 

I am considering doing the same thing Oaky8. I have yet to pick up the car but plan to soon. Any useful links found on this? Any tips that I can use? What has the cost been so far for you?

 

Wrightbenz, awesome i think this swap will make the car a whole lot more fun. I was kind of getting ready to sell the FB because it just wasn't fun.
I haven't spent much money on the actual parts.
$99 - Transmission
$26 - drive shaft (didn't actually need this the auto an manual tranny share same shaft)
$22 - pedal box clutch/brake

I still need to order a flywheel 99$, clutch kit 90$, clutch slave cylinder 6$, and the interior garnish for the shifter boot stuff.

current total = 342$

Ill update this once im done. But that price includes all of the major parts to get the car functional.

Also i got the bolt off using a set of milwaukee vice grips. Those things are amazing. Now i need to get the flywheel off, and i'm breading that part

 

Sounds like you are on your way. I found a good link with photos of the swap. I have read that the drive shafts are the same but this thread shows they are not. Possibly it depends on the year but I am not sure. hopefully someone else can chime in.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-begun-783169/

 

A couple more. Looks like the 84-85 autos had an overdrive and this may be the reason for the different drive shafts

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...s-done-223583/

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...manual-375365/