1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

3 ?'s about electricals...

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Old 10-30-06, 06:20 AM
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3 ?'s about electricals...

Here is the scenerio....
I have an 85 GSL-SE that has been sitting for quite some time (parts car). So I decided to get her running so that my 15yr old can learn to drag and drift in it. Well, I installed my 13B streetport with Mikuni's from my other SE (which is going TII) and this is were I'm at a lost . Everything is hooked up as it was on the other SE but I have run into a few snags.

It keeps blowing this fuse but I have know idea what it is....
the 20amp fuse that's listed as "opener" on the fuse box cover??

Fuel pump only runs when your cranking over the car (fuel gauge reads pressure). As the key is set back once car has started the pump stops working?

Also, none of my dash gauges or warning lights come on. Either with the key forward or once the car starts and runs for the few seconds when fuel is present, nothing is working??

Any and all suggestions are welcomed...
L8R
Joe
Old 10-30-06, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by lwnslw
It keeps blowing this fuse but I have know idea what it is....
the 20amp fuse that's listed as "opener" on the fuse box cover??
Opener as in Hatch opener, and gas lid opener.
Originally Posted by lwnslw
Fuel pump only runs when your cranking over the car (fuel gauge reads pressure). As the key is set back once car has started the pump stops working?
Trailing ignition is probably not working. The fuel pump won't work without it. Check the ignitors too.
Originally Posted by lwnslw
Also, none of my dash gauges or warning lights come on. Either with the key forward or once the car starts and runs for the few seconds when fuel is present, nothing is working??
The alternator and/or alternator plug is not properly connected.

Here is a link to the Factory Service Manuals - which should help you in identifying and resolving your problem.

Last edited by Directfreak; 10-30-06 at 10:34 AM.
Old 10-30-06, 03:28 PM
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The fuel pump for the SEs run under 2 conditions. With the key turned to crank or the door for the afm is open when the key in in the run position. That is the normal start proceedure. Since you have changed over to carb, the pump is shutting off with no afm signal. In the engine start trouble shooting section, the is a proceedure to test the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire. This allows the pump to run full time while the key is on.
Old 10-30-06, 04:53 PM
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Thanks for the reply guys.....
Directfreak----
I have no clue what they mean by "opener". When I pulled the fuse box cover that is all it says on the sticker that tells you what the fuse is for. I don't think it's either the gas door opener or the hatch as they both work fine. I have not installed the headlight motors so I don't think its that either. It blows the fuse just while trying to install a new fuse....

trochiod----
Thanks for the input. I will look at my chilton's manuel to see if they list that procedure...

Last edited by NoPis10; 10-30-06 at 05:01 PM.
Old 10-30-06, 05:11 PM
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Here's a link to an 85 wiring diagram

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/files/manuals/1985_RX7_FSM/85RX7(50)Wiring_Diagrams.pdf
Old 10-30-06, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lwnslw
Thanks for the reply guys.....
Directfreak----
I have no clue what they mean by "opener". When I pulled the fuse box cover that is all it says on the sticker that tells you what the fuse is for. I don't think it's either the gas door opener or the hatch as they both work fine. I have not installed the headlight motors so I don't think its that either. It blows the fuse just while trying to install a new fuse....

Keep putting in higher amp fuses until they stop blowing Just kidding.

Per the wiring diagram, the 20A fuses are for:
1. Glass Hatch Release/Fuel Door (only thing here that could resemble "opener")
2. Audio System/Power Antenna
3. A/C
4. Fuel Pump/Chargin System

The easiest thing to do is process of elimination. I believe it's the rear hatch myself, so you should disconnect the wiring to that from underneight the latch to disrupt the circuit and then try to put the fust back in. There is more than likely a short in it.
Old 11-01-06, 10:10 AM
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Anymore suggestions?????
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