1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

2GCDFIS question.

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Old 08-19-09 | 07:55 PM
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From: Summit Hill, PA
2GCDFIS question.

Just want to make sure I have this wired correctly. With all wires disconnected from the 2gen coil, I have the positive stock leading wire going to 2gen coil positive, and stock negative wire to a little black wire that is not part of the connector (it's all by itself next to the connector). I remember from the past that this 2gen coil is wired to the negative side (ballast).

Also, was I supposed to move the trailing wires (including the coil wire) over to the leading side of the cap?

I did look at GSL-SE addicts instructions here on the forum, but I just wanted to double check because when I did the swap, I lost power.

Thanks,

Mike
Old 09-01-10 | 11:02 PM
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No one replied to this?

I would also like to understand why with the 2GCDFIS you move the trailing wires to the leading side of the distributor cap. Does this make it so both leading and trailing fire at the same time?
Old 09-02-10 | 12:05 AM
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The cap doesn't control when it sparks, only where it sparks to.

Oh and 2GCDFIS kinda sucked when I installed it on PercentSevenC's car. No real power improvements over stock. Then it burned out the ignitor two months later. Utter crap.

Swapped in a working ignitor and went back to stock so he could drive it. Then I installed DLIDFIS. We noticed improvements everywhere! No more 2GCDFIS for me.

I'm throwing DLIDFIS into my '81 when it gets a 12A this month so it's driveable while I get the EFI stuff ready to go in.
Old 09-02-10 | 09:08 AM
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I totally agree with Jeff, the 2GDFIS didn't last long for me either (maybe a year
or so) and it ended up burning out the SA ignition box and possibly the igniters.

I would go one step further and recommend HEI ignitors and whatever coils you
want as long as you have one per leading sparkplug. Oh, and get rid of trailing
because then you just won't need it or the extra complexity.
Old 09-02-10 | 10:01 AM
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I do agree DLIDFIS is better than the 2GDFIS but I would not say that the 2GDFGIS. I had mine on for over 2 years before I switched to the DLIDFIS. I also got a solid 1.5 MPG increase with the 2GDGFIS as tested 4 times with it versus with the stock coils. This was on my 85 SE model.
Old 09-02-10 | 10:46 AM
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Too many acronyms. Spent most of last night rumaging through posts and was convinced running the 2nd gen coil with the ballast resistor OR msd trigger was the way to go. But now DLIDFIS is better?

Oi vey. Can't you gurus make up your minds!? lol I'm not even sure which one dlidfis is!
Old 09-02-10 | 11:21 AM
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DFIS - Direct Fire Ignition System - direct coil to plug, no dizzy cap/rotor involved

The prefix usually describes the coil setup.

DLI - Uses 2 stock type coils to fire each leading plug

TFI - Uses 2 Ford TFI coils to fire each leading plug (maybe DTFI would be more exact, I don't know/care)

2GC - Uses the 2G RX7 leading coil to fire both leading plugs

Ignitors can be j105, j109, HEI, or MSD or some other yet to be named ignitor.

You can mix and match this stuff to come up with a viable ignition. Each has its
fanboys. Once you get a handle on it its actually pretty simple.
Old 09-02-10 | 12:19 PM
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DLIDFIS = Dual Leading Ignitor Direct Fire Ignition System. It has been around for 9 years, installed on several of my vehicles, and in that time I've never burned out an ignitor. That's a pretty good track record for an ignition mod. Where've you been? lol kidding I know you're learning.
Old 09-02-10 | 04:59 PM
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Well I have 4 extra j-109's at home, I have a MSD 6AL box from an old piston machine, and someone that wants to sell me a 2nd gen leading coil for $30.

I definitely know there is advantage in better spark. I put a new Mazda ign switch in the car and it pretty much burned up and would read 12v. So I rebuilt my old one and soldered the joints and put it in. It read 13.5v for about a month now it's down to 12. Major voltage drop through the switch. I've got 70amp relay/pigtails on order through work to bypass the switch all together.

Anyways at 12v the motor misses a little at idle, pops out the exhaust and the off idle response is sluggish or hesitant. At 13.5v it's 100 times better. So Ignition mod is next after installing the relays and beefing up that whole feed the car power circuit.

Like you guy said... fanboys. I'm not one for changing things around in trial unless I find it to be detrimental. Figure I'm not out for major power with the stock port and stock nikki. I've got the header, exhaust, and modded SA intake.

Which one will give me the best CITY milage? I get about 16 in town and 22 on the highway now with the ign switch functioning properly.

Thanks in advance.
Old 09-03-10 | 09:08 AM
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What happened to the OP?
Old 09-03-10 | 04:49 PM
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Well, guess no one bothered to look at the post date? A year ago. I'm sure that Mike has already figured this out.


Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
What happened to the OP?
Old 09-03-10 | 06:41 PM
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Yep. I brought it back from the dead for more information as I had similar questions I couldn't find answered.

Have a pretty good handle on each, just not a "which is better for what." Handle on it yet.
Old 09-03-10 | 07:26 PM
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been running a second gen coil for about a year now with no problems at all. was 20 bucks on ebay and i did notice a small improvement in idle and throttle responce. nothing to awe over but i figure ive spent 20 bucks on alot of stupid stuff so this was a decent investment lol
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