1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

20B in a 85 GSL?

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Old 08-08-03, 04:18 PM
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You're going to have to completely redo your cooling system, upgrade the oil-cooling, you can't run the Cosmo ECU without major headaches so you need an aftermarket computer capable of running a 20B, new fuel system which means fuel pumps, surge tank, regulator and bigger lines, exhaust system, new clutch, gearbox, tailshaft and diff to handle the power and then all the little bit and pieces you'll need to get it running.
So how exactly does that break over $4000USD? Let alone $12000-$18000?! Especially considering that my friend owns a shop (where the majority of the project will be done) and will be custom building my exhaust... for the price of materials.

My statement stands.

Perhaps for you it would be that expensive, but having a near life-long friend who lives in Japan and has extraordinary access to new/used rotary related items, the costs are minimal. Not to mention the exchange rates...

Anything else?
Old 08-08-03, 05:02 PM
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Even at cost for most of those parts you're going to be spending a lot of money. Stuff adds up. I've done two swaps in two different cars, and I've fabricated nearly all the stuff myself, in my own shop. I speak from experience, you're looking at some serious cash. But hey, prove us all wrong and post your reciepts when you're done.

Why don't you just but a V8 in the car? It's cheaper, easier, and will make more power in the long run. You'll probably spend 1/2 what the 20B would cost, or you could spend the same and have a 600+hp motor. You're already distroying the weight balance and all the other BS arguments people use to bash V8 swaps, but no one seems to bring up when someone mentions a 20B....Hmm, interesting....
Old 08-08-03, 05:35 PM
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No one gives a **** about your v8 swaps alright.
Old 08-08-03, 07:06 PM
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I have zero interest in putting a V8 into any Rex.
Old 08-08-03, 11:36 PM
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Originally posted by O 16581 72452 5
If it's a custom 3-rotor utilizing 13b rotors and housings, it's a 20b.
Not so, the hit man if I remember right did his motor with 2 intermediate housings, where as a true 20b has a housing 1 inermediate housing and a much thicker housing sperating the front rotor from the middle one.
Old 08-08-03, 11:59 PM
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Originally posted by hornbm
Not so, the hit man if I remember right did his motor with 2 intermediate housings, where as a true 20b has a housing 1 inermediate housing and a much thicker housing sperating the front rotor from the middle one.
Exactly. To make a 3-rotor out of 13B housings also requires a custom made "short" eccentric shaft. I wouldn't call that a 20B anymore.
Old 08-09-03, 12:01 AM
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parts aren't cheap.... how much was an MSD box again? Yeah... might want to re-think your strategies

Perhaps a V8 swap is the way to go?

Last edited by Keaponlaffen; 08-09-03 at 12:04 AM.
Old 08-09-03, 01:35 AM
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Originally posted by Zeta-Gouki
I have zero interest in putting a V8 into any Rex.
Of course you don't. That would be sacreligous....
Old 08-09-03, 02:14 AM
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Totally agree with ya there, bud...

hehe

I'm not against it by any means... just not my thing.

Last edited by Zeta-Gouki; 08-09-03 at 02:16 AM.
Old 08-09-03, 09:48 AM
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I for one would love to know how a V8 would make more power then a tuned 20B in "the long run" . Any RX-7 with a V8 is now a PIECE OF ****.



Originally posted by '85 GSL 302
Even at cost for most of those parts you're going to be spending a lot of money. Stuff adds up. I've done two swaps in two different cars, and I've fabricated nearly all the stuff myself, in my own shop. I speak from experience, you're looking at some serious cash. But hey, prove us all wrong and post your reciepts when you're done.

Why don't you just but a V8 in the car? It's cheaper, easier, and will make more power in the long run. You'll probably spend 1/2 what the 20B would cost, or you could spend the same and have a 600+hp motor. You're already distroying the weight balance and all the other BS arguments people use to bash V8 swaps, but no one seems to bring up when someone mentions a 20B....Hmm, interesting....
Old 08-09-03, 12:12 PM
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Originally posted by '85 GSL 302
Why don't you just but a V8 in the car? It's cheaper, easier, and will make more power in the long run. You'll probably spend 1/2 what the 20B would cost, or you could spend the same and have a 600+hp motor. You're already distroying the weight balance and all the other BS arguments people use to bash V8 swaps, but no one seems to bring up when someone mentions a 20B....Hmm, interesting....
Nobody brings it up, because typically with the 20 B swap A) it's still a rotary B) the tranny is moved back by the length of the extra housing/intermediate plate.

Therefore, nobody complains because it's not accurate. You V8 people are just tightwads. If you want your ROTARY car to go really fast - get the biggest ROTARY you can find Besides, to get a V8 to compete with the potential of the 20B HP-wise, you'll spend more... in the long run
Old 08-09-03, 12:36 PM
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It's 2.0 litres utilizing "b" rotors and a "b" block, a 20b in my opinion.
Old 08-09-03, 04:28 PM
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I have seen a couple of 1st gens with 20bs in them. not much more work than putting a 13b rew in one. both of the ones I saw just moved the rad foward to where the rad housing used to be not back. I would guess about 2000 more than the rew swap not counting engine cost. much more potential than a v8 swap.
Old 08-09-03, 05:45 PM
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The reason for moving it back (and relocating the tranny/fabbing a new driveshaft) is to A) Keep the weight distrobution where it should be and B) get the componentry ready for higher HP.

Sure, you could just move it forward, but seeing how a 1st gen in stock trim is front-left heavy already, I'm quite certain you wouldn't want to do that if you enjoy the handling you have.
Old 08-09-03, 06:05 PM
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If you're gonna spend that kind of cash and do that kind of fabrication, you'll be better off putting in a Falconer V-16 so you can get something north of 800 BHP naturally aspirated...aluminum block,aluminum heads, coil-on-plug, dry sump...Set back, it shouldn't screw up the balance too bad....
Old 08-09-03, 06:13 PM
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front left heavy? mine was 50/50 with the exclusion of me & the battery. to move it back It would be a lot more work than just moving the trany and drive shaft. you would have to fab a new fire wall and trany tunel. plus everthing that was efected by that. I think the question was about if it coud be done, aid on how to,and could it be done for engine plus 4000 grand. I think it should be able to be done for that but not the best way. functionaly it would not be much differant on balance than a v8 swap, weight is much closer. use light weight compnets up front and for the hp/torque you could use weights to bal the ratio. the best way would be to build a tube frame but thats some jack.
Old 08-09-03, 06:17 PM
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Ahhh, but effendi and friends have incredible fabrication skills, so a tube frame wouldn't be a problem at all and cost only $120 for the chrome-moly tubing necessary to build it...
Old 08-09-03, 07:44 PM
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if you're saying a stock 1st gen is perfect 50/50 balanced, then I want what you're smoking

and mar - shush you. No need to muddy the waters

As for the fabbing - it's essentially just the tunnel and tranny mount with the driveshaft (firewall needent be touched). Since you'd undoubtably be upgrading from the 1st gen tranny with any 20 b swap (along with the rear end), a lot of this noise is quite moot.

It's not if it can be done - that's been answered by the swaps out there. It's whether it's worth it to do it cheap and half-*** via solely moving everything forward...
Old 08-09-03, 08:31 PM
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pratch nothing is ever perfect. and how would you move a 20b back 6~ inchs with out touching the firewall?? by the way you know mines not stock
Old 08-10-03, 01:58 AM
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Hmm...
Old 08-10-03, 04:07 PM
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Originally posted by kuhlrx7
pratch nothing is ever perfect. and how would you move a 20b back 6~ inchs with out touching the firewall?? by the way you know mines not stock
The firewall opening is sufficient (so I've heard) and only the tunnel needs to be modified.

Yes, I knew you were either mistaken, or not stock since in stock trim the FB is quite front-left heavy

Again - the original poster asked if it's possible, the answer is yes. The longer answer is to do it right, you're going to be laying out some serious bread ($15K isn't far off the mark). To do it cheap, you'll still lay out bread (ever priced a j-spec 20B?).

Still, if this month is as lucrative as it should be design-wise, my problematic engine is going bye-bye and I'll be buying a rebuilt-with-warranty SP 12A. I'll feel like a little boy at Christmas, I'm sure

To the original poster - best of luck should you choose to do this - you'll have yourself a car with serious *****, and lots of room to grow!
Old 08-11-03, 09:35 PM
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Originally posted by pratch

and mar - shush you. No need to muddy the waters

As for the fabbing - it's essentially just the tunnel and tranny mount with the driveshaft (firewall needent be touched). Since you'd undoubtably be upgrading from the 1st gen tranny with any 20 b swap (along with the rear end), a lot of this noise is quite moot.
I'm an ideas man......if he's going to fab, do something really out of the box....V-16...smooth as silk...gawdawful hammer when angered...
Old 08-12-03, 12:04 AM
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V-16? Wouldn't you have to like, move the dash about 2 feet back for that one?
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