Ridin85RXHeaven

What I did before Problem Occurrence:

I pulled into a gas station and someone needed a jump. Of course me being me figured sure let me fill up and I'll get you rolling. After filling up I pull up in front and give a jump to these people. Their car didn't start after 5 minutes of charging so I said sorry and went along on the way home 10 miles to go. About 5 miles into the trip home I was trapped behind a couple slow moving vehicles once I had room me being me I dropped a gear and gunned it around the 2 slower vehicles hit the red light stopped and low and behold my car is off and will not start.

Now what I have done to fix this issue:

First thing is first battery is smoking!!! No water at all!!! Luck me I shop wal-mart 3 year free replacement!!!
Battery replaced!
Now with the new battery installed I try starting and when it starts is sounds like its not firing right
I have a video on youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StNHQq4_2Rc
Yes I kept starting the car to fully hear what the car was doing in the video
because it dies almost immediately.
Now when the engine actually starts the sound is the same as in the video and the car revs to 2,000 rpm and kills instantly
The smell of gas becomes over powering so I look where my exhaust is crack before the muffler(exhaust is cracked due to wreck later described) and gas is pouring out of this crack.

Now this is where I am stuck I have replaced all spark plugs and wires and dist. cap and rotor bug. I have not replaced the ignition coils I have 2 driver side fender.
I have not replaced the fuel pressure regulator.

Is this what I should be replacing and the route I should take?

I was going to rebuild this engine but recently was hit by a woman that ran a red light and smashed my rear end to hell. Lucky me I just purchased a replacement rear end the year before.
So after the woman hit me I was using this as a work car for the damage from passenger door to the rear bumper.

Then the Problem stated above occurred. I love my RX-Heaven please any and all help will be well received! Thank you all!

hoang5659

iTrader: (14)

this just a guess but it sounds like you blew the motor. something similar happened to me. but lucky for me it still ran. i drove it all the way home (about 20-25 miles) on one rotor. hows that for a freakin tough motor. lol during the trip home, it emptied the entire tank of fuel (full tank). the next day i tried starting it and couldnt get it started.

FunK73

iTrader: (6)

pull your plugs, have someone crank the motor while you listen to your compression coming out of your plug holes. If you can hear/see loud hisses and pops, youve got a blown rotor. It definitely sounds like a motor gone bust though.

Ridin85RXHeaven

Well thank you for the fast responses okay my guess is cause of the body damage its better off to sell/part it out well my days with my RX-Heaven will be treasured lol thanks guys!

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I know it may be too late, but have you looked into your carb when you have the ignition switch
to the on position? You could be pouring gas into the carb.

Whisper

GSL-SE's are fuel injected, no carb. Unless he's modded.

I'd check compression before giving up. Does sound blown, but it's good to confirm.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

before condemning the motor, how about making sure the injectors are not stuck open. also, it sounds a bit odd to me that gas would be "pouring" out of a crack near the muffler.

Ridin85RXHeaven

Okay the compression test has been done please advise!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwZ9APrf0xY

I was getting spark from the rear top spark plug wire.
and little if any spark from the spark plug connected to the spark plug wire

After the test we are hoping it could as simple as replacing spark plugs Even though I replaced my plugs 3 months ago

But thats if i did the compression test right I can't wait to hear what you guys think

In the morning after I try new plugs again if not fixed I will check the injectors

13x

take the shrader valve out, that's a piston engine compression tester it will just spike to the highest, once the shrader is out look for 3 relatively consistant pulses, also when was the last time the spark plugs were changed?

FunK73

iTrader: (6)

if its blown you'll be able to tell without the tester. Have someone crank the motor with all 4 plugs out again. Stick your head right up by the spark plug holes for each rotor, they should alternate hissing noises between the front and rear rotors. If you hear hissing from one rotor housing but none from the other, your motor is kaput. From your video though it sounded like only one was hissing. It hard to say though

This is on an FD but you can hear the hissing really well. It should be similar to this rate http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ocv7-w0IjAY

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

My sound is dead on my home PC so I cannot hear the clip.

OK, Your statement is confusing at best.

What do you mean you were getting spark from the rear top plug wire? Also you will only get a good spark when a plug is attached and you ground the plug to metal.

For the record you disable the ignition coils when you do a compression test. Also did you disable the fuel when you performed the test and had the throttle wide open?

Did you get compression readings out of both the front and rear housings?



When you pulled the plugs were they wet with fuel?

Whisper

As already been mentioned that's not the way to check compression on a rotary. Pull the valve out of the tester first. The tester needs to be able to release the pressure in order to read the next rotor face. If you don't feel like pulling the shrader valve out, just hold the little release valve on the tester pushed in while someone cranks. It won't be very accurate that way, but it will still tell you if you're getting even pulses. Then you can let go of the valve and read the max compression. Do that for both rotors.

Before you do the compression test, disconnect the blade connector on the front coil (trailing coil is in the front, btw). I think it's the blue connector. Keeps your ignition and injectors from firing. To be safe, also hold down the gas pedal all the way, while cranking, that also cuts fuel.

There's no point in replacing anything until you've confirmed that you engine isn't blown.

Ridin85RXHeaven

First the plugs did have fuel on them.
The the upper plug from the front housing had very little fuel.
The the upper plug from the rear housing had quite a bit of fuel present.

Sorry I forgot to explain the video.

I believe the valve was released on the piston compression tester I am not sure my Uncle was handling that.
I know when I released the gauge from the line the gauge went to 0 (on each housing)

First Clip: Front Housing no upper plug Listening to rotor Sounds like it whistled to me

Before Second Clip: Tested spark from plug and has a strong spark thats why the Second Clip started with under 90 on the compression tester

Second Clip: Front Housing compression tester in upper plug hole. Compression tester only read 90 and the car didn't try to start.

Third Clip: Rear Housing no upper plug Listening to rotor Sounds like it whistled to me

Before Fourth Clip: Tested spark from plug and has a weak spark Then uncle tested plug wire with screw driver and received a strong spark thats why the Second Clip started with around 90 on the compression tester

Fourth Clip: Rear Housing compression tester in upper plug hole. The car actually tried to start seemed to lack fuel so while starting the car i gave it some gas and the car started and running horribly So I gave it more gas and as soon as it hit 2,000 RPM the engine died instantly.

If I need to explain anything in a different way please feel free to correct me for it can only better me which I hope in turn betters the world!

So first thing I will test the compression as explained below and then work my way from there!

Whisper

BTW, go check the FSM here http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/85_manual.html

Click on the "Engine" section. Page 10 of that outlines the compression test procedure. I'm sure it's all been said, but just to doulbe check. Obviously you won't be using those specified compression testers. Only Mazda and rotary shops have them.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Whisper, why are you sending him to a link to view the real tester procedure?

Here is the link we have here for the test using a conventional tester. :-)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=engine

Another thread that may be of use.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=engine

Whisper

Just making sure the general procedure is followed, regardless of the tester. Warm up engine, pull plugs on both rotors, etc etc. FSM is a pretty good source of info.

But yeah, those links are good too.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

From what I hear, you have 3 even pulses from both rotors, good. 90 psi isn't bad, not great but will run ok. The compression went way high when the engine tried to start because of the combustion pressure.

Seems more of a spark issue than anything else.

Ridin85RXHeaven

Okay I am having trouble finding the EGI Fuse on my 1985 13b gsl-se anyone know where to find it?

Whisper

It's in the fusebox under the dash. It's the Engine fuse.

You don't really need to pull it, though. Removing the blade connector from the trailing coil will be enough.

Or you can disconnect the primary wires, like the FSM says.

Ridin85RXHeaven

well fuel is just sparying out of the spark plug holes

Now I have read and heard both ways:

both ways mention with both ignition coils unplugged and EGI fuse out

take all four spark plugs out and then test in the upper plug hole in front housing repeat for rear

then I heard take the two upper spark plugs out then test in front housing repeat for rear

so all four plugs come out or two this is with a piston compression tester

IanS

iTrader: (4)

Only take 2 plugs out as if you take all 4 out you will read no compression since there is an open hole. 2 plugs to take out dont matter if top or bottom, but do 1 at a time.

Ridin85RXHeaven

Okay the upper spark plug was removed from each housing
I only got compression once on the front rotor went up to 90 without the valve open on the compression tester
then I tried it with the valve open and got no compression at all then everyother attempt on the front housing no compression
then I tried the rear housing and this time no compression at all

so either my compression tester sucks or the motor

I will take all the plugs out and listen to each housing the best I can tomorrow the current moment proves to be blown motor

The clip I took today of each housing no plugs was with the engine fuse still in the fuse box so my video camera got drenched with fuel SWEET!!! Will post video if the video will help!

Whisper

If you got 90 with valve closed, then at least one of the faces has 90 compression.

If you got no compression at all with valve open, then you're doing it wrong. Even a blown motor will have some compression and the arrow should bounce at least once.

You have to look at the dial on the tester as you crank it with the valve open. The arrow will bounce up and down. As soon as you stop cranking, it'll return back to zero. I hope you're not looking at the tester AFTER you've cranked.

That, or you broke your tester by starting the car with the tester connected.

Ridin85RXHeaven

i recorded the gauge with a video camera
and I could see the gauge as a put the gas pedal to the floor and turned the ignition

So maybe a bad compression tester? I will rent another one from autozone and see if I can get a reading thank you

LongDuck

REPLACE YOUR FUEL INJECTORS.

There, I said it.

The only time you get THAT much fuel in the system is when a fuel injector sticks open and is spraying at 100% duty cycle, all the time, including when you're trying to start it. These fuel injectors (there are only 2) are now 25+ years old, and they don't last forever. I'll bet you'll find that at least one of them, maybe both, will test as broken. Good luck,